Technical cheap source of radius arm bearing?

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Technical cheap source of radius arm bearing?

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Feb 1, 2008
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Anyone know where I can get a radius arm bearing kit on the cheap?
Use to be a seller on eBay for £12 ish..but that was over a year ago..
 
Yep..s4p are well priced..just wished their postage wasn't so high!

Really not looking forward to doing this job..but Ive noticed the lean getting worse.
So hopefully the weather holds out and I'll attempt it this week
 
Yep..s4p are well priced..just wished their postage wasn't so high!

Really not looking forward to doing this job..but Ive noticed the lean getting worse.
So hopefully the weather holds out and I'll attempt it this week


Delivery's about £7 with the VAT. If you get a few other bits at the same time - I recommend the Tutela Jarama oil which is what the dealers use & it's great value, along with a Fiat filter - then the 10% discount on it all pretty much pays for the p&p.
 
Radius arm bearings

. . . Really not looking forward to doing this job . . . but I've noticed the lean getting worse . . .
Mine too.
I knew it would need doing when I bought it, and vowed I wouldn't leave it as long as my last one . . . D'OH! :bang:

Clearing space in my Garage at the moment, so I can get it in.
Bought an 'Alligator' Saw a while back with this job in mind, not going to bother trying to undo the bolts after the nightmare with my original one, just going straight in with the Saw . . . (y)
 
Radius arm bearings

Definitely not I'm afraid.
For one, it's not powerful enough, and secondly, the Dremel cutting discs are very fragile, and nowhere near big enough.

I'd estimate you'd need a cutting disc with at least a six-inch diameter to get through the bolt.
A thin cutting disc in a small angle-grinder should do it, that's my back-up plan if the Alligator Saw struggles.
Cutting discs tend to snag in tight places though, so you'd need to go carefully, and slowly.
 
Give it a go by 'normal' means first. You never know, you might get lucky. It's possible to get at the bolt head and nut with very little dismantling (just take the wheel off IIRC). Spray loads of penetrating oil on the head and nut a day or two beforehand.
 
Cheap source of radius arm bearing?

Worth a try definitely.
If the lean's not too bad, you might get them out.
However, I reckon if it's bad enough to notice, they'll be too far gone.

My original Multi's bolts withstood around 6 tons of pushing/pulling from an Hydraulic ram without budging, the sub-frame sides were deforming under the load before I gave up . . . :eek:
 
Re: Cheap source of radius arm bearing?

I used a 4 inch (or thereabouts) thin cutting disc on my cheapo angle grinder and then lots of pressure with bars, extensions and whatnot. No success (although the cutting worked perfectly). I then got out my (again cheapo) gas blowtorch and applied it to the parts that made sense at the time (sorry, it was 2 years ago) and it was all over in a matter of minutes. And all carried out in the dark, with a 'gloworm' torch! Good luck!
 
F@#k sake!!
So nut undoes nice and easy!!
The bolt turns nice and freely..so I thought lovely..this isn't going to be too bad!
How wrong am I....it will not shift either way..I've resorted to angle grinding the head off to try and knock it the other way..but all it moves is 1mm!!
Arghhhh
Now its pissing down with rain..and short of cutting up through the subframe and arms.I'm pretty much stuck
 
Radius arm bearings

The bolt is firmly corroded into the bearing inner races and steel sleeve (between the two bearings), it effectively becomes one solid lump, I couldn't separate mine, couldn't even tell where the 'join' was :eek:
The whole lot will turn freely in the arm, but you'll never get the bolt itself out.
Only way is to cut the bolt where it exits the arm, so between the arm and the inner sides of the sub-frame webs.
 
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Re: Radius arm bearings

This may be a bit late for boilerman, but don't I remember reading a thread about this on the forum where some bright spark welded a nut onto the head of the spindle bolt? Was it you, BD? The idea being that you then wind a the centre bolt of a puller into the nut and use it to wind the bolt out?

If they're so far gone (as BD's experiences) then this still isn't going to lead to much joy, but as an assistance/future preventative measure it makes a lot of sense.

Other things I made a Mental Note to Self of when I did mine:

1. The rubber 'seats' that the outer ends of the bearing sets sit in are in effect seals between the subframe and the swingarm. This is a bit of a dodgy arrangement. It's also exactly where BD is saying to run the slitting disc (I think!), which isn't going to do wonders for the surfaces that the newly fitted seals will press against.

2. Courtesy of a fairly sizeable drain hole in the bottom of each swingarm, the internals of the bearing are in any case exposed to the elements to some extent. I think it's not so much a drain hole, more the point at which the core for the swingarm casting is supported when they are made. The plastic spacer tube between the bearings is the only guard against any road salt etc that gets inside the arms. When I cleaned mine up, I bought some 1 1/4" plastic tube bungs to plug the holes, which fit perfectly.
 
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What an idiot!!
That's why I've can't get the plastic sleeve in..the bloody outer race of the bearings are still in place!
That's what happens when you get fed up..
Anyway..darkness has stopped play..
 
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