Technical 53 Plate JTD ELX Slight Miss

[pipcars]

Hi, I have recently got hold of a 53 reg ELX JTD, I love it, still trying to convince the wife Just replaced the drop links and anti rollbar bushes plus n/s wishbone, totally transformed the car, also lubed the gear change cables, now much better, all information taken from this excellent forum
I have another problem, that I can't resolve. When you start from cold and leave it ticking over, it's fine but as soon as you touch the throttle it starts to "miss" almost like a petrol engine with a dodgy plug or lead. It only does it below 2000rpm, above that it's clear and smooth.
Has anyone any ideas or experience with this?
Cheers Paul.

 

[QinteQ]

Picture it, sitting in the driving seat, foot on throttle.

Now you have a LHS and a RHS glovebox. Under the RHS glovebox is the potentiometer. Under the LHS glovebox is a white connector.

If you follow the metal throttle to its top you will find a round metal thing with wires coming out called a potentiometer. These wires go directly horizontally left behind the radio and gear stick to a white connector under the LHS bulkhead where they eventually connect to the ECU. This connector needs to be eliminated before even taking it to a garage let alone spending an English penny.

It may not be your problem .. .. but Fiat dealers make a mint charging parts when all they do is clean this connection. Give it welly with switch cleaner / good old scrape / rewire new spades in / whatever.

Or .. .. .. just plug and unplug 6 times to make a good electrical connection, its this connector that provides all the info to the ECU that results in so many spurious error codes - what happens now ?

I made a post on this covering technical voltages and OHMS values a couple of years ago, I've no idea where it is but I'll find it if your stuck !

 

[pipcars]

Many thanks for that, I will give it a try, Cheers

 

[pipcars]

Not sure if I've found the correct plug, it's nearer the heater than the glove box but its the only one I can see, how many wires does it have? I have just done a 400 mile round trip in it and the misfire is getting worse, especially when it's cold, it wont rev cleanly to pull away, I noticed it alot at crusing speed as it made the car shake (2000 rpm) ,off throttle and above it's smooth. The egr has been cleaned, I've put a bottle of inj cleaner through it. Running out of ideas now. It has no lights on the dash. Any ideas?

 

[pipcars]

Anyone?

 

[QinteQ]

Anyone?

It's all in #2 my friend, I suspect the reason no one is offering help is because there is none to offer other than what was posted in 2.

It doesn't matter whether there are 2 or 3 plugs or whether its a little closer to the heater than the door, and it doesn't matter how many wires it has coming from it just go out and unplug and re-plug them several or more than several times and see what happens.

You may get a nice surprise and fix your problem, you may however not get any benefit at all, but you won't know until you try!

Go on .. .. get out there now and do what I say, you know you want to really .. .. go on give it a go .. .. do it now why don't you ? .. .. go on then and let the group know what happens

 

[pipcars]

lol, I will have another look today, my wife is out in it at the mo, I've also been told it could be the power to one of the injectors or an injector itself?
I will have a poke around again before giving in and sending it to a garage maybe.

 

[QinteQ]

lol, I will have another look today, my wife is out in it at the mo, I've also been told it could be the power to one of the injectors or an injector itself?
I will have a poke around again before giving in and sending it to a garage maybe.

I made a long and technical post yonks ago about the various multiple 'P' errors that are thrown up by this simple bad wiring connector. People go to the main stealers and are ripped off because most times its just this 20p chockky block. The poor owner of course is not told and is like yourself charged for various replacement parts and labour, the dealers and fitters and car buying fraternity do know and make sure its kept as 'inside information'. If its not the chockky your next best bet is the crank sensor.

I've not seen that post of mine for eons but I clearly remember the last sentence which went something like - check this chockky first before OBD costs or even before spending one english penny !

Maybe you would benefit from reading this thread, best to you pipcars.

 

[pipcars]

I'm going mad I still can't locate this white plug in the passenger side. I found one which seems to control the heater and the other white plug seems to plug into the blue box on the ECU, has anyone got a photo? I need to illiminate this before having to replace injectors
Cheers Paul.

 

[QinteQ]

I'm going mad I still can't locate this white plug in the passenger side. I found one which seems to control the heater and the other white plug seems to plug into the blue box on the ECU, has anyone got a photo? I need to eliminate this before having to replace injectors
Cheers Paul.

The original factory white block [ another person ] may already have been changed by someone else, get you pedantic head off the nitty gritty, do this :

- two people [ one of your kids / mates / the wife will do
- one person on the drivers side footwell locates the cable leading out of the potentiometer and shakes it gently
- the other person on the passenger side footwell feels for which wire is being shook

The chokky block connected to the shaking wire is the correct one, and as said in #6 """ It doesn't matter whether there are 2 or 3 plugs or whether its a little closer to the heater than the door, and it doesn't matter how many wires it has coming from it just go out and unplug both and re-plug them several or more than several times and see what happens """

 

[QinteQ]

: the other white plug seems to plug into the blue box on the ECU
Cheers Paul.

- I said in #2 """ eventually connect to the ECU""" - C'mon Paul