Technical Num.Plate Bulb and then some more

Currently reading:
Technical Num.Plate Bulb and then some more

dejand

New member
Joined
Feb 27, 2016
Messages
7
Points
2
Location
Malmö
Greetings, FIAT lovers!

Disclaimer :D : I'll try to provide as much detail as possible so that you who actually can and want to help me can get a clear picture of what the problem is. There will also be a "Too Long; Did not Read" part at the and. Thank you.

I've gotten my hands on a Stilo 2003 1.8. It's great, but I'm sure you already knew that.

Apart from the timing belt needing a change (there was literally NO service book whatsoever, so I bought it purely on what the my hunch told me), as well as the regular oil/filters needing a swap as well, I have a problem with the license plate lightning.

The previous owner had taped them in a bit sloppy fashion, and as I found out that FIAT can present many electrical errors even without exterior influence, I wanted to check what the problem was. After removing the tape, I tried getting a couple of screws and screw them in, hoping that it was all I would have to do. Turns out, the old screws got rusty and their heads broke off, so to say. So they're stuck in their holes (2 of them), one hole is free, but the last one doesn't even EXIST. At first I wondered where it could be, but then I realised that someone had already tried putting a screw in there, then broke off the metal part with the hole, but in such a way that it almost looks like a clean, straight cut.

To make it worse, the left lamp wiring fell out as the black wire (the one that goes on the "-" pole is very short (that's why it got disconnected so easily), and it feels practically impossible to reattach.

Any ideas on what to do with the short wiring, as well as with a missing hole? If I glue it up it might be a problem if one of the bulbs pops at some point in future (which might happen very easily, if I am to believe all the threads about bulb issues). Any constructive ideas are more than welcome.




Today, I just got the airbag failure, stop engine on the panel. Searched through the forum, found that it's those cables under the seat, shook them a few times on each side, and it suddenly stopped. Am a bit afraid of doing it on my own, but I'm sure it'll work out if I follow the instructions, right? Any particular tips on that process?




Also, if I notice the front lights "shaking" a bit in the mornings, as well as the start when I turn the key is slow at beginning - is it time to change the battery, or will it still be okay, considering the summer is coming, and the temperatures won't be as low? (I'm in Sweden, temperatures here are currently around 0 degrees Celsius).



One last question - is the suspension on all Stilos kinda hard? Driving over bumps, it feels like I really have to drop it to almost 10 km/h or less just to pass without feeling it off. It shakes it off immediately, but it feels... no other word to describe it, than hard. Could there be some kind of fault lurking there? It did pass the MOT here in Sweden 10 days ago though.




TL;DR
Got issues with installing num. plate bulbs, the wiring to one of the bulbs is too short, what do ?

Airbag failure, stop enging poped up today, disappeared after shaking the cables under the seats, any tips before I get onto it?

What are the symptoms of a weak/bad battery on a Stilo? (apart from the obvious "it doesn't start")

How should suspension on a Stilo behave? Loose/hard?
 
For number plate you could stick some led bulbs in and glue it back together. Or glue it with clear silicone you can always cut that off again with a blade or piece of fishing line or thin wire. For the short wire I use a linesman splice to add an extension piece and heat shrink or PVC tape to protect/ insulate.And yes the suspension is pretty hard on speed bumps. My other car is a 97 Toyota and sails over the bumps I always forget when driving the fiat and bottom it out.
 
For number plate you could stick some led bulbs in and glue it back together. Or glue it with clear silicone you can always cut that off again with a blade or piece of fishing line or thin wire. For the short wire I use a linesman splice to add an extension piece and heat shrink or PVC tape to protect/ insulate.And yes the suspension is pretty hard on speed bumps. My other car is a 97 Toyota and sails over the bumps I always forget when driving the fiat and bottom it out.

Nice thinking there with the silicone. I'll do that during the weekend, will post results, presumably with pictures.

When it comes to lineman splice, do I need to buy specific type of cable for extending it? Where do I even get one of those? This is my first car with bunch of electronics and I am a bit scared of it, to be honest, as all of my cars were oldies with more or less nothing but mechanical solutions (knobs for Windows, mirrors, etc). Also, what tools do I need for that heat shrinking process?

I am ever grateful for any kind of advice.
 
For heat shrinking you don't need anything fancy just get an assortment of different diameters of tubing and use a lighter (or a heat gun if you have one). Use a suitable size though, using too large a tube will not seal the joint as it will not shrink enough. Use one that just fits over your wires and connection. Also be careful not to set the plastic coating of the wires on fire if you use a lighter :p
 
Last edited:
"Airbag failure, stop engine poped up today, disappeared after shaking the cables under the seats, any tips before I get onto it?"

Mine did this when I first got it.....quite simply unplugged the connectors beneath the seats, sprayed some electrical contact cleaner in them, let them dry for a minute or so...fitted back together, problem solved. Been 6 months now and not a problem.

I have a JTD, and the suspension is fairly hard....I assume its fairly normal.

And I believe the Stilo is very sensitive to a weak battery. I had a new battery fitted 6 months ago, and when its cold here (-10), it fires up straight away. With the old battery it took 8-10 seconds of cranking before it started.
 
Okay, so here's an update (no pictures yet though, busted my old phone, waiting for the new one to arrive). I'll just go through the aforementioned issues and probably post a couple of more that I've had.

- Num plate bulb - was switched out by my mechanic, I got a couple of used bulbs at the local scrapyard, they gave them to me for free. Works like a charm. Apparently there was no need for tape or silicone, he jammed one of the screws in the tiny space between the bulb and the boot material itself, so it's pretty firm, and safe to wash with high-pressure water (tested, works).

- Weak battery - this one has got me completely dazzled during the last 2 weeks. Ever since I posted here, I thought I'd observe how the car will behave after the maintenance was done, and I'd driven it for a couple of weeks. The entire car gives of a feel like it had been standing still for a longer period of time (months) before I got my hands on it. Thanks to that, the suspension feels like it's becoming lighter (could be me getting used to it, not really sure there), the engine feels like it's growing like a little child, with every day the car went smoother, but... Every time I'm about to start the car after it's been standing parked for 8+ hours - the following happens:

I put the key in the lock and turn the key so it starts the "Checking" part. I always wait for it to complete the airbag check (that's the one that takes the longest time), when all the lamps have shut down (except for the two small green bulbs), I try cranking, and it just won't start on 1st attempt. Whatsmore, it usually doesn't start from second or third time. I usually repeat the entire process 3-4 times before it starts. Once it popped up the "Check engine" before I managed to start it. And then it happened 3 days ago, I couldn't start it at all, in the middle of the city. I turn the key, NO CRANK, NO NOTHING. Only thing that happens is the radio turns on automatically, as if the car started without any problems (I switched the radio and AC off every time it wouldn't start on the 1st go, felt like it helps, I was suspecting the battery up until the point where it didn't even crank). So I had to push it for like 20 meters, hit second gear, release the clutch - AND IT STARTED WITHOUT PROBLEMS!

But here comes the even stranger part - right after that, I drove straight to my mechanic (he's a good bloke, he's had loads of FIATs, even has one now, although the old 750, he's an enthusiast), I stopped at his parking lot, and just for the sake of it, I tried starting it again. IT STARTED RIGHT AWAY, AS SOON AS I TURNED THE KEY!!!

He said he'd connect it to his reader, but he couldn't put a finger on it right off the bat, and I'm not really sure what it could be. My gut's telling me it could either be starting motor, weak battery, or a faulty immobiliser, either on the key end or in the keyhole at the side of the wheel.

Any ideas on this one?

- Air conditioning "not working" according to my mechanic - upon my previous visit to mechanic, where he changed timing belt, those cogs that keep the timing belt tight, water pump, oil (maxlife in the house, enging sounds like a cat now, it's beautiful) and filters, I was told that the "Air conditioning relay" was faulty, and that the car isn't really able to provide "cool air". It warms the inside pretty nicely though. How do I go about that one? Are there any schematics available as to where do I find the relay (under the hood/wheel/somewhere else), and where do I buy one of those within EU borders?

Last, but not least, my odometer keeps blinking, even after they did the entire service, and reset the counter for the service (I checked in the "Menu"). I've read something about some kind of alignment - is that something I can do on my own, and if so, what kind of tools do I need?

I will update whenever I can with pictures.

TL;DR

Num plate bulb is fixed now, I can finally wash the car.

Car starting a bit hard in mornings, left me stranded in the city, wouldn't even crank, no errors reported on the screen. BAFFLED by it.

AC relay faulty - wat do?

Odometer keeps blinking after service, how to go about alignment?

Thank you once again for putting up with my lack of tech savvy.
 
Bumping with some more info, in hopes someone can tell me if the problems that are remaining are something that I can solve on my own, or do I really need to leave it to the mechanic.

Picture 1: DSC_0014.JPG

That's my beauty, 2003 Stilo 1.8 Dynamic. ISN'T IT GORGEOUS? :cool:

Picture 2: IMG_20160405_214404_01.jpg

This is what the mechanic got me as the fault codes for that mysterious "it just won't start sometimes unless I get out and give it a push" problem. Baffled by it. Worth mentioning is I only got one key from the previous owner - could it be that I just need to code a new key and the problem vanishes?

Picture 3: received_10209504636482257.jpeg

Been told by my mechanic that this is where the periodic rattling sound comes from. It is ANNOYING and had me real scared that it might be something bigger. Is it hard to swap it out on my own? Could there be some guide that I've overseen?

Thanks once again, fellas.
 
It is a nice looking car you've got there!

In Picture 3 I believe that is a headlight angle adjustment motor, I had an issue with mine but found that it was cheaper to replace the entire headlight cluster with one I bought on eBay. I think it is possible to buy a replacement motor or retrofit certain other car's motors in place. Based on looking at the spare headlight I now have, I don't think it would be too difficult to replace yourself. I can take mine apart and send you pictures if that would help?

My headlight had big scratches on it so it was just easier for me to replace the whole thing, I'm not suggesting that you need to do this :p

To fix your flashing mileage you need to get it proxy aligned at a garage with the right equipment (Fiat Garage or somewhere else), OR I believe that you can do it with the MultiScanECU tool that is frequently mentioned on here. I've just been ignoring mine for 6k miles or so.
 
Last edited:
:yeahthat::yeahthat::yeahthat:

Headlights
As mentioned quicker to replace the headlight, also the motor inside the light is the same as a VW (loads on here)

Suspension
I also have a JTD Estate, the ride is a bit rough, things to have your mechanic check:
Wishbones-they are known for inner bushes to wear
Droplinks-nice cheap fix and makes difference
Rear axle bushes-if you have a "knocking" on the back
Springs
Shocks-as mentioned on here FK do the fron shocks at a dirt cheap price
http://www.carparts-tuning.co.uk/en...-front.html?listtype=search&searchparam=stilo

i have changed all above and on my Multiwagon and its the comfiest ride out of the 3 Stilos i have had.

With you number plate lights, you can change the complete plastic housing, its plug and play, and as for rattles nearly every piece of plastic trim rattles on mine! you get used to it

Paul(y)
 
Well, I've just been stranded for the 5th time or something. After digging through the forum and observing its behaviour on these occasions when it won't start, it got something to do with the heat. I think the start motor is about to give up, as it has difficulties when cold (only periodic) and always won't even crank or turn over whenever it's been driven for a longer period of time (approximately 1 hour or more). Should I be looking at something else?

Is there a sort of quick fix, an on-the-spot solution?
 
Back
Top