Smoke or steam? Could be rain's got into the radiator fins, sat there as not been used, and now evaporated and dried out, and that was the steam as a result? Was there a smell from it?
Technical Fiat Stilo 1.6 Cutting off, no errors, engine light on, price
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Technical Fiat Stilo 1.6 Cutting off, no errors, engine light on, price
Smoke or steam? Could be rain's got into the radiator fins, sat there as not been used, and now evaporated and dried out, and that was the steam as a result? Was there a smell from it?
Yes, it looked more like steam and no smell (burning smell).
could be rain water... hows your coolant level?
my rad has a tiny little pin hole in it and it 'smokes' when driven hard and stopping... time for a new rad for me... kinda hard to distinguish if it steam or coolant somedays even by smell.
keep your eye on the coolant level
my rad has a tiny little pin hole in it and it 'smokes' when driven hard and stopping... time for a new rad for me... kinda hard to distinguish if it steam or coolant somedays even by smell.
keep your eye on the coolant level
Hey, I am doing the same but don't know what reading need to be? If you can drop few lines which readings to monitor and what results should be?
By the way I got P1684 and 1687, does it means I didn't done throttle relearn correctly?
Update:
After cleaning contacts and sensors last week only today was able to check for errors. As I expected loads cause I was disconnecting sensors and ecu (when it was sent for test). All error codes was cleaned and I will monitor if any will appear.
Tomorrow will be first day when I will test my stilo going to work after quiet long brake about 3 weeks. I will update how it will be.
Got few question and misunderstandings:
Last week was charging my battery (over night) and after I left my car for 4-5 days without any movement and today I was unable to start my car. Good that my neighbor gave my car a jump.
I understand that my battery is not holding a charge, however I was reading around that stilos need very powerful battery to prevent all kind of errors. Do any one know why? As I understand battery needed just to start a car, rest is dependent on alternator? As I am right? And if I got quiet weak battery can I expect errors such as alternator failure and loose connection?
I will be very appreciated if anyone can explain written above.
After cleaning contacts and sensors last week only today was able to check for errors. As I expected loads cause I was disconnecting sensors and ecu (when it was sent for test). All error codes was cleaned and I will monitor if any will appear.
Tomorrow will be first day when I will test my stilo going to work after quiet long brake about 3 weeks. I will update how it will be.
Got few question and misunderstandings:
Last week was charging my battery (over night) and after I left my car for 4-5 days without any movement and today I was unable to start my car. Good that my neighbor gave my car a jump.
I understand that my battery is not holding a charge, however I was reading around that stilos need very powerful battery to prevent all kind of errors. Do any one know why? As I understand battery needed just to start a car, rest is dependent on alternator? As I am right? And if I got quiet weak battery can I expect errors such as alternator failure and loose connection?
I will be very appreciated if anyone can explain written above.
Battery isn't only to start the car, it's also to provide juice when the alternator isn't providing charge that's sufficient, or when it's not charging at all, as it's a smart alternator it's not charging 24/7 only when required to.
Due to the vast electronics and sensitive nature of them relying heavily on certain voltage tolerances, if the battery is knackered then voltages for sensors might be out of tolerance. Car then brings up said fault with said sensor - ie airbag fault as resistance isn't within tolerance in the system because the battery voltage is just that tad too low.
My advise would be to replace the battery with a Bosch Silver battery - ebay seems to be a very good place for them price wise
Battery isn't only to start the car, it's also to provide juice when the alternator isn't providing charge that's sufficient, or when it's not charging at all, as it's a smart alternator it's not charging 24/7 only when required to.
Due to the vast electronics and sensitive nature of them relying heavily on certain voltage tolerances, if the battery is knackered then voltages for sensors might be out of tolerance. Car then brings up said fault with said sensor - ie airbag fault as resistance isn't within tolerance in the system because the battery voltage is just that tad too low.
My advise would be to replace the battery with a Bosch Silver battery - ebay seems to be a very good place for them price wise
I am so unlucky, this morning my battery was flat again... in 8 hours, even starter didn't rotated.
Do you know is it possible? No lights or whatsever was left.. One of battery connectors (minus) is not dead connected, quiet easy to take it off by hand. Does it could be an issue? Could this poor connection drain my battery?
Was so dissapointed this morning..
My advise would be to replace the battery with a Bosch Silver battery - ebay seems to be a very good place for them price wise
How do you think this one will be okey?
http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/a...attery/027-car-batteries/?444770277&0&cc5_997
60ach
So is the battery being left connected and going flat, or are you disconnecting it and its still going flat?
That should be ok, although personally I would go for this one, only about £2 more and 5 year warranty
So is the battery being left connected and going flat, or are you disconnecting it and its still going flat?
It was connected overnight (I was driving yesterday evening so it was charged), and in the morning nothing.
I am guessing but is it possible that something is draining the battery? If before everything was fine and no new equipment was installed in the car?
Its possible, I'd try leaving it disconnected over night and see if the battery still dies.
Replaced the battery, checked alternator and all looks good, voltage 12.6 and 14.5V.
Checked for the current drain and had 0.47A... It is almost 10 times over limit? I am right? Didn't change radio and do not have extra equipment in the car.
What is the first thing to look? Don't really want to take off all fuses.. How much local garage can charge me to find a current drain (UK London).
Does sound high. Have you tested it 20min after last touching the car (including locking) to allow the body computer to power down? Not sure what drain that would have though.
Failing that I'd slowly remove all the relays one by one and testing the drain as you go.
Failing that I'd slowly remove all the relays one by one and testing the drain as you go.
