The push rod has broken. Just get a new slave cylinder complete with push rod . It's the thing that operates the clutch from the slave cylinder.

Davren said:

Now you've posted a better picture, it's clear that the push rod has broken and pierced through the rubber boot. The new cylinder will include a new push rod.

When you fit the new cylinder, clean the hollow in the metal arm and smear some grease into it, and the ball on the end of the push rod.

I've not heard of the push rod breaking before. Has the clutch pedal become harder to push down recently?
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I think someone reported a broken push rod. It was made out of plastic if my memory is right.

Thank you Davren, that picture helps too.

The rod is made out of plastic on this one (the replacement looks metal though).

The clutch isn't the lightest, but never has been in the 3 years I have owned the car. Not as light as my girlfriends fiesta for example, but just thought that's how Stilos must be as I have nothing to compare it to.

Is there a specific type of brake fluid that I need? Thanks.

Anything with DOT 4 specification.
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Thanks again Davren.

The new slave cylinder is now on and it does have a metal push rod.

I lubricated the part you told me to and removed a lot of built up cr@p that was in there. Do you think that might have caused the problem? The build up of rubbish pushing the rod away from forcing straight?

I doubt that would have been the sole cause of the problem, but a few people have posted that lubricating the pivot point has made it easier to depress the clutch pedal. I suspect it was just the plastic push rod that finally gave way, possibly why it's now made of metal.

Hopefully, the problem wasn't caused by a fault with the clutch or mechanical release mechanism. After you've bled it, press the pedal down slowly to see if you notice any undue resistance with it.
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Having a little difficulty in bleeding the clutch because when I push it down it doesn't come back up, is this normal or am I doing it wrong?

Nothing is coming from the bleed nipple even when pressing the clutch down. The clutch just hits the floor and stays there and needs to be pulled back up. Any suggestions?

Ok so I have undone the bleed nipple pin (this is what was stopping anything from coming out of it ) and tried to pump the clutch to flush the system. The problem is when I lift the clutch back up it just seems to draw air back in to the bleed nipple.

The clutch is also still hitting the floor and not coming back up.

Assume you've topped up the resevoir, then lifted the circlip and pulled the hose out about 10mm from the slave cylinder?

If so, it should bleed by gravity, however I've often found that when bleeding a new empty cylinder, it's often difficult to get it started. Try doing it one pump at a time. i.e. with the pedal on the floor, refit the hose and circlip then lift the pedal. Next, lift the circlip and pull the hose 10mm again then press the pedal to the floor again. Repeat this process until the pedal won't stay on the floor by itself. By closing the hose before each time you press the pedal, it allows fluid to be drawn from the resevoir into the hydraulic sytem.
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wilson999888 said:

Ok so I have undone the bleed nipple pin (this is what was stopping anything from coming out of it ) and tried to pump the clutch to flush the system. The problem is when I lift the clutch back up it just seems to draw air back in to the bleed nipple.

The clutch is also still hitting the floor and not coming back up.

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Unless the design of your replacement cylinder has changed, you don't need to undo the bleed nipple, in fact if you've tried, you've probably broken it off. If the new cylinder is still made of plastic, the nipple will be moulded as part of the cylinder body. You just need to withdraw the hose a little to bleed it, as described in the guide.
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The new assembly is different with a metal screw type bleed nipple, that's what led me to think I needed to unscrew it- you were correct though, I didn't need to do this.

I think the problem was as you described - Just a little difficult to get started. Air seems to have stopped coming out though now and I can select gears no problem, the clutch is also much lighter than before ( in fact much lighter than it has been for the 3 years I've had the car).

Thank you so much for your help everyone. I will be donating to the site.

Just a final note though:
My biting point has seemed to have gotten a bit lower. It's about a 1/4 of the way up now. Is there any way to change this or shall I just leave it be?

Also how will I know for sure that the brakes won't need bleeding too? Or am I just over-worrying about this? Took it for a little drive and brakes seem fine.

Providing the resevoir was never completely empty, no air could have got into the brake hydraulic circuits.

No it was never empty Davren. Only got to that point indicated in your picture.

Any advice on the new lower biting point?

Probably still has air in the system.

Couple of other methods of bleeding.

1. You could use an irrigation syringe with a pipe connected to the bleed nipple and suck fluid through. A 20 - 50cl syringe should be avalable from a pharmacy for a pound.
2. Get an old resevoir cap and drill a hole through it to fit a bolt on tyre valve, then pressurise the resevoir with a bicycle pump to pump fluid through. Don't pressurise it too much, the air space above the fluid is small and the fluid doesn't compress.

Whichever method you use, make sure the fluid level never drops down to the level of the clutch supply take off point in the side of the resevoir.
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Thanks again mate.

I've been driving it this evening and it has been spot on in terms of no crunching and a lighter feel to the clutch. I will have a go at bleeding it a little more tomorrow though.