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<!-- google_ad_section_start -->HOW TO CHANGE YOUR DROP LINKS (OR ANTI ROLL BAR LINKS) IN 30MINS<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
HOW TO CHANGE YOUR DROP LINKS (OR ANTI ROLL BAR LINKS) IN 30MINS
Published by Deckchair5
03-03-2007
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HOW TO CHANGE YOUR DROP LINKS (OR ANTI ROLL BAR LINKS) IN 30MINS

HOW TO CHANGE YOUR DROP LINKS (OR ANTI ROLL BAR LINKS) IN 30MINS

Well first of all you, do you need to change them? Whatís the symptoms?
A kind of irritating rattle over rough surfaces but no noise at all on smooth surfaces. Always there but doesnít seem to get worse


NB A track rod end (or tie rod end) is a very similar noise but thatís felt much more through the steering, is much louder, gets progressively worse and can give you torque steering (altering course on power off/on) even on smaller engines.
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This is a track rod end or tie rod end, we're not dealing with this today



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Anyway, here are the drop links and theyíre just held in at each end by a self locking nut. The only problem is stopping the screw from turning whilst you remove the nut thatís been there for a few years. New nuts don't come with the links and it's worth putting on new ones. Not cheap though at £1.50 each

Do the usual stuff of jacking up, remove the wheel and use an axle stand. As soon as you get the wheel off use some oil or penetrating oil on the links screw threads, if nothing else, then you have done everything to make the fight easier.

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In the centre of the screw thread is an allen slot so you can restrain the screw whilst turning the self locking but donít even think of using normal allen keys to hold it. Worth noting that if you have an impact driver, one of the sockets in my set fits beautifully so you can restrain the screw whilst turning the nut on the top link

Do the top one first and, if youíre lucky you can probably get the nut off with not too much messing about. If the nut starts to get tight then stop, donít just carry on, screw it back in again a bit to work the crud off the thread because once that allen slot rounds off you will have to resort to plan B. and B stands for Butchery!


Now access to the bottom link is much more restricted and you can try to hold the allen key slot or you can just go straight for Plan B. The problem is you need to be able to get hold of and stop the screw from turning.

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Bend the link arm back from the top out of the way, itís not very strong at all, you can bend it with your fingers. You can also raise the drop link arm by putting a bar in and levering it up a bit from the bottom triangular widhbone arm. You'd be wise to pull out the sensor cable that's in the area out from its holdings and put it out of harms way

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Now for some butchery! With a medium sized, sharp flat blade screwdriver just stab right through the rod end rubber gaiter and twist bits of rubber off so you can get to the end of the ball joint.

In no time you will find a couple of thin retaining spring bands which hold the gaiter on and just lever these out and away.
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Here you can see them still on the link arm
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Now you have access to a nice round but useable surface to clamp a mole wrench onto tightly and off you go and remove the nut easily on the other end

If youíre careful you can use the same method of holding one side with a mole wrench whilst you tighten the nut on the new lower drop link but be careful not to damage the gaiter of course

For the top link then you can use the allen key easily on this new one to help restrain whilst you tighten the nut. Clip the brake pad wear sensor cable back in and the job's done
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Oh, and in case you hadnít sussed it. This little gadget in the Stilo tool kit is to help you put your wheels back on.
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Easy to line up and hang the wheel on. Saves a lot of puffing and panting
Thanks GhostRider199, Minus8, 12[X], Muppet1 thanked for this post
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Old 03-03-2007   #1
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Cool Re: HOW TO CHANGE YOUR DROP LINKS (OR ANTI ROLL BAR LINKS) IN 30MINS

B for butchery is very true for the bottom joint of the arm and A for angle grinder made short work of it
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Old 04-03-2007   #2
Whaddya mean too old?
 
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Re: HOW TO CHANGE YOUR DROP LINKS (OR ANTI ROLL BAR LINKS) IN 30MINS

A bit cramped in there for messing with an angle grinder and it's definitely goodbye to the special locking nuts if you do.
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Old 21-03-2007   #3
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Re: HOW TO CHANGE YOUR DROP LINKS (OR ANTI ROLL BAR LINKS) IN 30MINS

And C is for C4 plastic explosive...for when you get REALLY ragged off with rusted on nuts!
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Old 24-03-2007   #4
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Re: HOW TO CHANGE YOUR DROP LINKS (OR ANTI ROLL BAR LINKS) IN 30MINS

Did this today, ended up splitting the nuts and breaking my nut splitter in the process. The top nuts were easy, but the bottom ones were a real pig. Took me about 2 hours in total, including removal of the mechano kit. Fitting the new links was a total doddle!
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Old 01-04-2007   #5
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Re: HOW TO CHANGE YOUR DROP LINKS (OR ANTI ROLL BAR LINKS) IN 30MINS

Told you not to mess with nut splitters and the like, go in boldly like a surgeon, stab through the balljoint rubber and grab the end with a molewrench. Job's over in 10mins
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Old 05-04-2007   #6
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Cool Re: HOW TO CHANGE YOUR DROP LINKS (OR ANTI ROLL BAR LINKS) IN 30MINS

Quote Originally Posted by Deckchair5 View Post
A bit cramped in there for messing with an angle grinder and it's definitely goodbye to the special locking nuts if you do.
You should change the nuts for new ones you cheap skate
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Old 17-04-2007   #7
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Re: HOW TO CHANGE YOUR DROP LINKS (OR ANTI ROLL BAR LINKS) IN 30MINS

Since doing a few of these now I can say that the boot covering the droplink ball joint is very tough so whether you're renewing the drop link or just want to remove it, a mole wrench like this directly over the boot and holding onto the joint seems to do no damage at all to the boot.

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So now, even easier, no nut splitters, no angle grinders, just a mole wrench on the back and use a socket or spanner and it's off in 2 minutes flat
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Old 04-12-2007   #8
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Re: HOW TO CHANGE YOUR DROP LINKS (OR ANTI ROLL BAR LINKS) IN 30MINS

an i didn't see a 10 by 1.25 die used once in this terrible
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Old 23-12-2007   #9
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Re: HOW TO CHANGE YOUR DROP LINKS (OR ANTI ROLL BAR LINKS) IN 30MINS

Quick question, i have an irritatimng knock over certain bumps and whilst steering, lubed up the top mounts and that helped some of the noises,

but i cant feel any play in the droplink ends when i turn the steering full lock to get to them, when jacked up or on the ground i cannot feel any play anywhere on the droplink

is it still possible to be the droplinks... had it since feb 07 and always done it.. but not got any worse
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Old 24-12-2007   #10
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Re: HOW TO CHANGE YOUR DROP LINKS (OR ANTI ROLL BAR LINKS) IN 30MINS

bottom arms may ave failed also

fiat had a bad batch at some stage
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Old 29-01-2008   #11
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Smile Re: HOW TO CHANGE YOUR DROP LINKS (OR ANTI ROLL BAR LINKS) IN 30MINS

Hi, Just a couple of things to add
1 I would start with the bottom one as it is still supported by the drop rod and more rigid if you need to give the spanner a sharp crack to free the nut
2 Be prepared for a non standard 16 mm AF spanner, why do they do it ?. The replacement lock nuts I fitted were standard 17mm AF(10mm thread)

I found that by removing the plastic iner-wing cover access to the bottom nuts was easier and it only takes a minute

New drop rods at the local Fiat agent were &#163;15-00 each inc vat

Kes

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Last edited by Kes Marsh; 29-01-2008 at 20:58. Reason: spelling mistaake
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Old 03-04-2008   #12
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Re: HOW TO CHANGE YOUR DROP LINKS (OR ANTI ROLL BAR LINKS) IN 30MINS

Hang on a minute, self locking nuts, penetrating fluid, axel stand??????????
I don't have any of these. Would it work out cheaper to get this done at a garage than buy all these things?
How long do fiat say this should take(ie how much will the garage charge me?)
I am about to have my spings changed, so might get this done at the same time
Are these parts easy to get hold of? My springs have over a week to arrive! (abarth bits )
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Old 03-04-2008   #13
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Re: HOW TO CHANGE YOUR DROP LINKS (OR ANTI ROLL BAR LINKS) IN 30MINS

dealer would charge you 1hrs labour £88 where I live and the part about £14.

Buy the part yourself £14 and get another garage to do it as some only charge £35
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Old 03-04-2008   #14
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Re: HOW TO CHANGE YOUR DROP LINKS (OR ANTI ROLL BAR LINKS) IN 30MINS

£14.50 a piece(genuine fiat) and £40 fitting.
Very close dan, thanks for your advice.
Didn't even ask fiat, i've given up on them
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