Register Login
Mr. FIAT
Comment
 
Guide Tools Search this Guide
<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Space thrifty amp install on OEM head unit.<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
Space thrifty amp install on OEM head unit.
Published by Morty Mort
12-06-2008
Unrated

User Rated:Unrated

Show Printable Version  Email this Page 
Space thrifty amp install on OEM head unit.

Please notice this is a left side driven car. And as I am a family man, I drive a 5-door car.

Why make an ICE install like this, as it could be made much better? Well, this build is definitely not in the high-end area, but it works, and has no side-effects on the car. If you have a low budget, are happy with the OEM head unit but lack the sound stage a subwoofer produces, this is the dive. If you have ever tried a sub, you can't ever manage without it, and this guide will help you succeed.


Click image for larger version

Name:	01- kobling fra batteri (egen sikring).jpg
Views:	1151
Size:	388.6 KB
ID:	45205
1. Pull out the fuse from the inline fuse box. Wire the cable from the battery. I had a free "bolt" there, so it was an easy fit with a new nylon lock nut. Attach everything as you prefer. You might have to drill or dremel out some space from the battery cover so it won't grind on the cable's shielding when refitting.

Click image for larger version

Name:	02 - strekk av strømkabel fra batteri.jpg
Views:	859
Size:	379.6 KB
ID:	45206
2. Fit the cable out of the battery box and attach it loosely to something that does not move to much or get too hot.

Click image for larger version

Name:	03 - strekk av strømkabel langs stabstag.jpg
Views:	406
Size:	391.8 KB
ID:	45207
3. The cable will fit nicely along the strut brace.

Click image for larger version

Name:	04 - gjennomgang til kupeen.jpg
Views:	1086
Size:	365.3 KB
ID:	45208
4. There is a hole in the bulkhead in the middle of this picture. A rubber grommet, about 5 cm wide is easy to drill through. It can also be removed, but as there are elements as heavy carpet and sound proofing on the inner side, it is fairly easy to lever a small drill down there and fire through. Pull the cable through with a steel wire or similar. The hole must not be drilled too large. It must fit like a glove or even tighter to make it waterproof.

Click image for larger version

Name:	05 - tilkobling av lydsignal fra radio.jpg
Views:	597
Size:	528.6 KB
ID:	45209
5. Pull out the original head unit. I used a pair of u-shaped knitting pins, adopted from my wife. Unplug the antenna, speaker connection block (black) and power/CAN connection block. If you have a yellow Blaupunkt mini-ISO back there, make a note of it's position, as it fits two places, and pull it out as well. I must admit I never checked it this is a remote cable for the boot power outlet, but anyway it is not connected to the ignition.

You must choose if you want the rear or front to send the signal to the amplifier. I suggest the rear, as the sub will most likely fit the boot or similar, and it is easy to use the fader control on the radio to decide the volume of the bass, without compromising the front speakers.

The rear speaker cables are located outermost on each side of the black connection block. The upper row is positive, and lower is negative. So only hack into the two wires on each side of the block if you want the amplifier to receive the rear signal.

Click image for larger version

Name:	06 - tilkobling av tenningsstrøm til amp.jpg
Views:	759
Size:	426.4 KB
ID:	45210
6. Remove the undertray from the steering column, 3 screws. Slide it out of the steering wheel adjuster lever. The orange wire is sending a switched 12V+ signal which can be used to power of the amplifier remotely. Unplug the white connection block to get some working space. Pull a cable from the head unit's bay and down towards the pedals. Hook it up with some clips and trace it up to the orange wire. Connect it with a signal thief - I have no idea what it's called in English... Refit the undertray. Using this method, the amplifier will always shut off with the ignition, and never run your battery flat. It will not power up if you forget to shut off your radio (menu controlled) or not even in the radio's "20 minutes mode".

Click image for larger version

Name:	07 - kablestrekking i dashbord.jpg
Views:	801
Size:	487.6 KB
ID:	45211
7. Open the upper glove box and remove the inner trim. Two screws hold it in place. You need a short screwdriver. The trim can now be pulled out with some force. It is not held in place at the air-condition vent, as I thought. Pull 4 speaker wires and the amplifier remote (from the orange wire at the ignition) from the HU bay and into the ribbed area of the glove box. Remember to mark the wires so you know which one goes where.

Click image for larger version

Name:	08 - jording av linjekonverter.jpg
Views:	710
Size:	428.3 KB
ID:	45212
8. Pull the RCA signal cable up from the passenger's footwell and up to the open glove box compartment. Put your signal converter in there, and plug in the RCA cable. Attach the speaker wires to it, and ground the converter. The passenger side airbag is mounted underneath the dash with too long bolts. It's easy to clamp the converter's ground to it with an extra nut.

Click image for larger version

Name:	09 - tilkoblet kabler og limt linjekonverter.jpg
Views:	343
Size:	347.8 KB
ID:	45213
9. This depends on the size, surface and build of the converter, but I attached mine to a part of the dash's metal frame with an industry double side adhesive. Slide the amp remote cable down where the RCA came up. Tidy everything up, strip and tape as you prefer and refit the head unit. Insert the trim of the glove box and shut it.

Click image for larger version

Name:	10 - kabelkveil fra dashbord.jpg
Views:	746
Size:	517.9 KB
ID:	45214
10. Now you have some meters of cable to stretch. There should be one live power cable (battery positive), a pair of RCA cables and one amplifier remote cable (thin, and the color of your choice). Tidy them up and strip them together. The RCA signal cable is usually shielded, and can be put besides the red power cable (professionals would disagree with me). On the frame of the dashboard there is a bend, right beside the fuel cutoff switch. This bend is perfect to house the cables and keep them out of sight. Use a cable tie/strip for the fitting. This also makes it very easy for the next step, removal of the plastic trims along the doors.

It is necessary to remove the lower trim at each door. Remove the rubber (weather) seal. After removing some small screws, they pop of straight up. Use some force, but not with tools. Attach your cables in the pre-mounted cable keepers. Some cables are factory fitted, but there is enough room. The trim on the B pillar is impossible to remove without removing the front seat, as it slides down... Anyway, a wire can be stretched through as a pulling aid for your new cables. Be careful with the side airbag connector in there.

A tricky part is to pull the cables from the rear seat to the boot as it is very tight back to the arch. But it is possible.

Click image for larger version

Name:	11 - liming av treplate til hjulbue.jpg
Views:	276
Size:	386.6 KB
ID:	45215
11. Measure a piece of plywood with 15 mm width to fit between the wheel arch and boot trim. You don't have to make it bigger than the amplifier itself. The plywood can now be routed down from the drawer compartment above the wheel arch. Cut off the upper / front corner to ease the install and get it further to the front, as the arch trim (still in the boot) rounds off there. Use some kind of super glue to attach it to the steel. This is just to make a base for the amplifier. Never bolt it directly to the bodywork, as you will ground the amplifier's chassis.

Click image for larger version

Name:	12 - kabelstrekk til bagasjerom og jording av strømkabel.jpg
Views:	632
Size:	521.0 KB
ID:	45216
12. The cables are now through, and the last 12V- (battery negative) cable can be attached. There is a grounding point on the wheel arch which is very suited for this need. You can see it in the picture to the left of the white connection block. Use the same cable diameter as the red 12V+ coming directly from the battery.

Click image for larger version

Name:	13 - høyttalerterminaler.jpg
Views:	452
Size:	275.0 KB
ID:	45224
13. This is optional, but very necessary for me. Speaker outputs out of the way of all the crap in the boot. Precut a little wood plate (not metal) so it fits on the inside of the trim. Hold it (be careful) and drill two holes through the trim and the plate. Mount the speaker terminals with pre-soldered wires for direct attachment to the amplifier.

Click image for larger version

Name:	14 - foreløpig plassering av amp.jpg
Views:	721
Size:	473.0 KB
ID:	45218
14. Drill holes for the wires to keep them fit, and use ties to prevent them from sliding in and out. The picture shows testing of the amplifier's position. Slide the amp over the wires as this area is soft and has no wood on the inside. I drilled a couple of new holes in the amp (there were originally four holes). Mount the amplifier to the plywood. Make sure the screws don't penetrate it and touch the metal of the arch so it doesn’t ground. Insert the in-line fuse at the battery.

Click image for larger version

Name:	17 - liten hjelper.jpg
Views:	206
Size:	409.6 KB
ID:	45219
15. Build a subwoofer enclosure. Great with some helping hands to keep your efficiency at a low level or completely away, as these personalities tend to get very sore if their help is declined.


Click image for larger version

Name:	22 - finito.jpg
Views:	661
Size:	535.5 KB
ID:	45220
16. Now you can enjoy your new ICE install that takes up minimum space. Or you can load up the boot with any prefabricated enclosure. In my situation the boot is always filled with at least one stroller, shopping bags and generally a lot of family stuff like clothes and gadgets. The enclosure fits between the baby’s seat in the rear (where there at no feet) and the driver’s seat.
Thanks custard thanked for this post
Likes se7en liked this post
__________________
FIAT Forum Useful Links:
Donate to FF | Buy FF Merchandise | Classifieds | FF Insurance | How-to Guides | FAQs

Old 15-06-2008   #1
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Thornaby
Posts: 85
Thanks: 2
Trader Rating: 0
Benjy has donated!
United Kingdom 
Re: Space thrifty amp install on OEM head unit.

Good one mate .... should help lots of peeps this !
__________________
If it aint broke dont fix it !
Benjy is offline Reply With Quote Quote 
Old 10-07-2008   #2
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Cardiff, Wales
Posts: 135
Thanks: 0
Trader Rating: 0
United Kingdom 
Re: Space thrifty amp install on OEM head unit.

You should not run the rca cable and the power cable next to eachother, unless the rca cables are of very good quality.
__________________
There are no sheep in the city....
Rosso83 is offline Reply With Quote Quote 
Old 12-07-2008   #3
NobodyBlamesTheHappyGuy!
 
Morty Mort's Avatar
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: 69° North
Posts: 2,771
Thanks: 126
Trader Rating: 1
Morty Mort has donated!
Norway 
Re: Space thrifty amp install on OEM head unit.

Quote Originally Posted by Rosso83 View Post
You should not run the rca cable and the power cable next to eachother, unless the rca cables are of very good quality.
As I mentioned at picture/number 10... You just had to say it.

RCA cables are often triple shielded, and again - this is not a high-end install.

M.
__________________
jet blue. eibach pro system. omp bar. gsr in. supersprint out. hella eyes. phoenix gold watts.

member of the 5-door massive attack.
Morty Mort is offline Reply With Quote Quote 
Old 16-07-2008   #4
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Leeds
Posts: 167
Thanks: 6
Trader Rating: 0
United Kingdom 
Question Re: Space thrifty amp install on OEM head unit.

Morty, have you secured the speaker enclosure to the boot and if so how?
__________________
Stilo
Kirbs is offline Reply With Quote Quote 
Old 17-07-2008   #5
NobodyBlamesTheHappyGuy!
 
Morty Mort's Avatar
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: 69° North
Posts: 2,771
Thanks: 126
Trader Rating: 1
Morty Mort has donated!
Norway 
Re: Space thrifty amp install on OEM head unit.

Quote Originally Posted by Kirbs View Post
Morty, have you secured the speaker enclosure to the boot and if so how?
Well, the speaker is mainly placed between the rear and front seat, as I've got a baby seat over it. The rear footwell is free there, and perfect for a sub enclosure.

On previous installs I've just industrial velcro stapled to the sub enclosure...
Thanks Kirbs thanked for this post
Likes se7en liked this post
__________________
jet blue. eibach pro system. omp bar. gsr in. supersprint out. hella eyes. phoenix gold watts.

member of the 5-door massive attack.
Morty Mort is offline Reply With Quote Quote 
Old 17-07-2008   #6
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Leeds
Posts: 167
Thanks: 6
Trader Rating: 0
United Kingdom 
Re: Space thrifty amp install on OEM head unit.

Aaahh velcro, excellent practical solution to the quick removal due to space being required problem, looks like the way to go. Thanks.
__________________
Stilo
Kirbs is offline Reply With Quote Quote 
Old 15-10-2009   #7
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Aberdeen
Posts: 34
Thanks: 0
Trader Rating: 0
United Kingdom 
Re: Space thrifty amp install on OEM head unit.

Hmm...
Is it doable to fit an active sub in the boot and hack the rear speakers for signal (3dr version), and feed power from the front?
Or is it a bad idea?
__________________
FIAT Forum Useful Links:
Donate to FF | Buy FF Merchandise | Classifieds | FF Insurance | How-to Guides | FAQs

dyzio is offline Reply With Quote Quote 
Old 09-11-2009   #8
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Copenhagen
Posts: 11
Thanks: 0
Trader Rating: 0
Denmark 
Re: Space thrifty amp install on OEM head unit.

Hi Mort,

I'm trying to do the same on a Stilo Multi Wagon. The body is a bit different from yours. My biggest problem is that I can't seem to find a hole in the body through which to pull the power cable coming from the battery into the car. Your solution is a bit different since my Multiwagon doesn't have the same space.
Would you have any recommendations? Are there existing holes I can pull the cable through without drilling?

Thanks.
__________________
If it ain't broken, fix it until it is

Tretch is offline Reply With Quote Quote 
Old 04-10-2011   #9
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Portsmouth
Posts: 41
Thanks: 1
Trader Rating: 0
United Kingdom 
Re: Space thrifty amp install on OEM head unit.

I'm trying to do something similar in my 3dr Stilo, though with some slight difference's to this setup. I'm looking at fitting a 6 Channel amp, chopping out the front speaker cable's from behind the stereo and running them to RCA channel 1 & 2 inputs (using the high level to RCA converter), then with the rear speaker cable's running to RCA channel 3 & 4 inputs, and splitting the RCA at the amp and plugging them into RCA channels 5 & 6, (rear speakers effectively powering channels 3,4,5 and 6)

The plan is as follows:

Channels 1 & 2 to power the front speakers (Left & Right respectively)

Channels 3 & 4 to power the rear speakers (at reduced power??)

and channels 5 & 6 to power my JBL 8" subwoofer.

I have the following questions though.

Will it be possible to split the RCA output from the rear speakers into 4 different inputs on the amp?

What output (wattage) are the standard Stilo speakers?

The Amp I have is rated at 4800w (max) over 6 channels, each channel has a separate gain control, so I'm wondering if the gain on the amp is down to min (channels 1 to 4) would the standard speakers handle the input?
__________________
FIAT Forum Useful Links:
Donate to FF | Buy FF Merchandise | Classifieds | FF Insurance | How-to Guides | FAQs


Last edited by ChrisJones380; 04-10-2011 at 17:37.
ChrisJones380 is offline Reply With Quote Quote 
Comment
Currently Active Users Viewing This Guide: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Guide Tools Search this Guide
Search this Guide:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump
Similar Threads
Guide Guide Starter Category Comments Last Post
(T) Help With Ignition & Head Unit grandepunto4life Grande Punto 12 25-03-2008 22:06
(G) Head Unit Install MF-Racing Stilo 3 26-11-2007 20:43
(T) New Head unit install problem Benjy Stilo 0 12-08-2005 15:56
(T) MK2b Head Unit - install problems - HELP Please Punto_Lassie Punto (Mk2/2b) 5 08-08-2005 22:49
My First head unit install help! sradams1977 I.C.E 5 09-01-2004 14:57