Technical Rpm and throttle body problem

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Technical Rpm and throttle body problem

ophthalmofox

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Hello every body i am experiencing these issues but i think it would have common solution

When i cold start the car it take two or three ignition rotation to start ( doesnt start from the first ignition ) unless i press on the acceleration pedal a little i found that it start directly from the first rotation

Secondly, when i press the pedal and start the car the engine start and rpm rise to about 2000 because i press the pedal but when i leave the pedal the rpm drop to 500 or below and tbe engine stop. To prevent this i must keep the rpm at 1500 or 2000 for few swconds and when i leave it it continue to work normally

When i bought tge car. I noticed the vaccium opening in the throttle body ( there r two, i am talking about the above bigger one ) isnt connected to anything and the other lower one is connected to blue line but this line go to no where but this problem is recent i think no relation between both

May you please help me to know what is going on
 
Thank you so much i appreciate helping me

I cleaned the throttle body well with cleaning also the vaccuim opening but i think the problem that the vaccuim openings are the problem as it is not attached to any line or pipe as i mentioned

Does tis make my problem ? Or it is the idle ait contrl sensor that need to be changed؟
 
Here is what i mean
The two openings in the throttle body are opened not attached to anything

I just put a tab on the bigger one and the rpm returned to notmal but engine never start inless i press the fuel pedal and continue pressing it for about 5 seconds otherwise rpm fall and engine stop

What are these opening for ?

 
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1. Fuel return to tank
2. Fuel pressure regulator
3. Air Inlet Temperature (AIT) Sensor
4. Injector
5. Mating surface
6. Fuel intake for throttle body
7. Hot water inlet
8. Feed from charcoal cannister (EVAP)(blue)
9. Breather take off (brown) from cam cover
10. Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor take off
11. Throttle body
12. Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
13. Idle step motor (sometimes ICV or IAC)
14. Hot water outlet

On some cars the Feed from charcoal cannister (EVAP) and Breather take off from cam cover seem to have been marked blue and brown respectively, but this may not apply to all cars. And MAP sensor take off is from inlet manifold on some cars
(taken from fingers99's guide but slightly edited)

If you are not using them you need to blank them off, either some vac pipe with a bolt in end and a jubilee clip to seal or some proper vacuum blanks like this
 
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Yes it is number 8 and 9
I tried to close number 9 with plug and i noticed the rpm returned to normal but i am facing a start problem , i must press on the accelerator pedal to start the engine and wait for 5 or 6 seconds to maintain the engine running otherwise the rpm fall and engine stop

But when the engine is stable the rpm is stable and about 800 without any problems , so my problem is in start only
 
yeah i hear you, but get them blanked off first and see if it makes a difference - it will be sucking in more air than its expecting at start up, it might just work.

The starting issue sounds very much like a sticky or stuck ICV (idle control valve) if its still an issue once them holes are blanked.
 
You could try to raise the rpm from the 800 to about 1000. This may help with the starting issues you are having. Also check the operation of the cold/hot feed flap in the intake cover. This does brake.
 
I replaced the ICV but I noticed nothing changed , then I noticed that it may be wiring issue to the valve as I noticed that there is no change in the valve length at all






how can I test the valve wiring ? it is 4 wire cable
 
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