Technical Punto Mkii sticky clutch pedal - bleeding question

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Technical Punto Mkii sticky clutch pedal - bleeding question

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Apr 28, 2017
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Dear all,

I recently obtained a 2000 punto mkii with 120000km.
It runs great, gears shift fine, but I have a problem with the clutch pedal. When depressing the pedal, it does not travel smoothly in the last few cm. The problem gets worse when the car has been running for a while, to the point where something will start squeeking and the pedal will stick to the floor. The clutch itself still works fine at this point.
Any suggestions how to solve this?

My plan is to:
1. Bleed the clutch slave cylinder (not very hopeful)
2. Replace hydraulic fluid
3. Replace slave cylinder
4. Replace master cylinder

Regarding the bleeding procedure, I removed the retaining clip at the slave cylinder but unfortunately the fluid line won't budge.
Any help would be much appreciated.
 
Dear all,

I recently obtained a 2000 punto mkii with 120000km.
It runs great, gears shift fine, but I have a problem with the clutch pedal. When depressing the pedal, it does not travel smoothly in the last few cm. The problem gets worse when the car has been running for a while, to the point where something will start squeeking and the pedal will stick to the floor. The clutch itself still works fine at this point.
Any suggestions how to solve this?

My plan is to:
1. Bleed the clutch slave cylinder (not very hopeful)
2. Replace hydraulic fluid
3. Replace slave cylinder
4. Replace master cylinder

Regarding the bleeding procedure, I removed the retaining clip at the slave cylinder but unfortunately the fluid line won't budge.
Any help would be much appreciated.

Once the slave bleed clip is out then the fitting on the flexible pipe has to be pulled out a few mm. You will need to carefully work the fitting free. Cleaned up it just moves in and out fairly freely and resists slightly more in the bleed position. Bleeding has been reported here to be difficult without having a small air pressure applied via the brake and clutch reservoir but I had no difficulty on my own car.
 
Once the slave bleed clip is out then the fitting on the flexible pipe has to be pulled out a few mm. You will need to carefully work the fitting free. Cleaned up it just moves in and out fairly freely and resists slightly more in the bleed position. Bleeding has been reported here to be difficult without having a small air pressure applied via the brake and clutch reservoir but I had no difficulty on my own car.

Thanks for the tip. The fitting is a bit corroded, I already tried applying WD-40 but it is still stuck and I am hesitant to apply a lot of force.
I would upload a photo, but the forum does not allow me to upload or post URLs.
 
Attaching images works now.
Does anyone know what the hex bolt circled in red is for?
 

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It looks like it just plugs end of hole drilled in slave to enable air to reach bleed point, bleed point is under small rubber cap directly in front of red circle.
If you are having trouble releasing pipe from slave cylinder after removing clip, clip removed in your photo, put a cloth over pipe joint and hold rag in place while someone else pressed clutch pedal. Pipe may then be forced out, rag is VERY important to stop brake fluid spraying everywhere. Brake fluid strips paint !

Your clutch symptoms sound like worn clutch cover/pressure plate fingers
 
New 3 piece clutch needed be sure to make sure 1st motion shaft clean before putting new bearing on and also dribble some light oil down on the clutch fork shaft where it enters the gearbox
 
Thanks for the advice everyone.
So I managed to pull the pipe out of the slave cylinder in the end, but it turns out the bleed valve is opened by turning the hex bolt circled in red in the previous photo.

I bled about half a liter of hydraulic fluid. I think the old fluid looks a bit aged and dirty, with some unidentified objects floating in it (see attached photo).

Anyway, bleeding the slave cylinder did not do much to solve the stickiness of the clutch pedal. The creaking sound seems to be coming from the slave cylinder, so I am hopeful that replacing the slave cylinder will solve the problem.

Jackwhoo and s and b, why do you think it is the clutch itself that is at fault? Shifting gears still works fine, apart from the stickiness of the pedal.
 

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well from my perspective it might just be because ive changed loads of clutches so know the symptoms:D

Fair enough :D
Considering that replacing the slave cylinder doesn't cost much and looks like a fairly simple job, I will try that first though.

How much time would it take to replace the clutch? It's probably going to take me twice as much time as I have never done it before :D
 
Fair enough :D
Considering that replacing the slave cylinder doesn't cost much and looks like a fairly simple job, I will try that first though.

How much time would it take to replace the clutch? It's probably going to take me twice as much time as I have never done it before :D

slave cylinders used to cost £25 so be careful on costings but if it aint leaking how can it not work basically
you really need a helper if doing clutch on axle stands to guide the box on with a jack underneath because otherwise its easy to damage the centre of the clutch (ive got the teashirt)
allow a full day to do it
spray all the awkward bits the day before so they have more chance of coming undone
its best if you undo the driveshafts out of the inner yokes and put them in clean carrier bags as you pull them out of the way
ball joint pinch bolts need careful attention as they easily snap leave the nut on the last bit before you belt them and also consider spinning the bolt section if you can to free them before you clout them
 
Correct, sounds like the clutch release bearing is failing and sticking into the clutch (happened on my old astra and was starting to happen on my old 1.2 stilo, needed a clutch kit and refurb on the box for other reasons)
 
So I got a replacement slave cylinder and today I had a go at fitting it.
To my surprise the hydraulic line would not fit in the new cylinder, the connector is too wide.

Have I been sent the wrong cylinder or is the hydraulic line not standard? The part number of the hydraulic line is 46764303

Any insight would be very welcome :)
 
So I got a replacement slave cylinder and today I had a go at fitting it.
To my surprise the hydraulic line would not fit in the new cylinder, the connector is too wide.

Have I been sent the wrong cylinder or is the hydraulic line not standard? The part number of the hydraulic line is 46764303

Any insight would be very welcome :)
Have a look at eper, put in your vin number so it pin point your car.

How sure are you that its the slave cylinder?
 
Have a look at eper, put in your vin number so it pin point your car.

How sure are you that its the slave cylinder?

ePER Seems to be having some issues, it is giving me an error. It is a 1999/2000 1.2 8V ELX

I think my mistake was to trust the part reseller website regarding compatibility. It looks like the slave cylinder I ordered is compatible with OEM parts 46541666/55196190 whereas I should have ordered one that is compatible with OEM parts 46547126/55183388.

How sure I am that it is the slave cylinder? - do you mean how sure I am that the slave cylinder is the cause of the sticky clutch pedal? Not sure at all, but the slave cylinder is making an awful squeaking sound that get worse when the clutch pedal is more sticky, so chances are that it is not in great shape.
 
ePER Seems to be having some issues, it is giving me an error. It is a 1999/2000 1.2 8V ELX

I think my mistake was to trust the part reseller website regarding compatibility. It looks like the slave cylinder I ordered is compatible with OEM parts 46541666/55196190 whereas I should have ordered one that is compatible with OEM parts 46547126/55183388.

How sure I am that it is the slave cylinder? - do you mean how sure I am that the slave cylinder is the cause of the sticky clutch pedal? Not sure at all, but the slave cylinder is making an awful squeaking sound that get worse when the clutch pedal is more sticky, so chances are that it is not in great shape.

A screaching sound would tell me that its the release bearing eating into the clutch blades - i stand to be corrected though.
 
A screaching sound would tell me that its the release bearing eating into the clutch blades - i stand to be corrected though.

The sound appears to be coming from the slave cylinder.
Nevertheless, you might very well be right, I am becoming more and more convinced that the clutch is on its way out. When accelerating in 4th or 5th, it sometimes revs to 4k before before revs drop again and the car picks up speed.

So I am probably looking at a new clutch set, am I correct that all early 1.2 8V puntos have a C514 gearbox?
 
The sound appears to be coming from the slave cylinder.
Nevertheless, you might very well be right, I am becoming more and more convinced that the clutch is on its way out. When accelerating in 4th or 5th, it sometimes revs to 4k before before revs drop again and the car picks up speed.

So I am probably looking at a new clutch set, am I correct that all early 1.2 8V puntos have a C514 gearbox?
That where the clutch slips and slowly bites again is 100% dead clutch
Through wear or contamination

The engine torque over power's the torque the clutch can transfer for efficient power uptake

Tackle this sooner than later
As this could caise damage to tje flywheel if it goes rivet to plate

Unless this issue has been solved and it was jist the mechanism not engaging clutcb fully
 
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