Technical Coughing and spluttering engine

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Technical Coughing and spluttering engine

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Apr 15, 2013
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Hi everyone would appreciate some help/advice.

The engine on my mk2 Punto 1.2 8v has started coughing and spluttering and struggles to build revs when its out of gear and some black smoke comes out of the exhaust. It has no power and if I attempt to drive it as soon as I approach a junction and engage the clutch the engine dies like it's stalling.

A few work mates have suggested the pre-cat lambda sensor and another said it could be the EGR valve, any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
There is no EGR valve.

Is it misfiring? Test (with insulated pliers!) by removing, and re-attaching one lead at a time, then replacing (all this with the engine running). Pulling the lead from a non firing cylinder will not result in a drop in revs.

An alternative is sometimes to start the engine in the dark, peer under the bonnet, look for blue flashes. Blue flashes generally indicate a plug lead well past its sell by date. But if the leads are more than 4 years old, I'd replace them anyway. Do it one at a time, so you can't get the order wrong.
 
I think its misfiring, the engine doesn't sound right at all and sort of pops. One of the engine mounts is really worn too and the engine is moving around quite a lot, are they easy to replace?
 
you need to get this sorted soonest as engines are falling out of puntos on a daily basis:D
why andyreckit showed a link the other day where the engine just fell out the driver said:D:D
nothing like engine mounts really worn or anything like yours:)

anyway back to basics:)
black smoke is overfuelling so usually down to a lambda or map issue
no light on dash?
no codes from a basic scanner?
vacuum test showing if exhaust blocked cat turned?
compreesion test?

all good thoughts to mull on
 
Thanks guys. The main points seem to be:-

Read code(s), yes the engine management light is on.
Lambda sensors
MAP sensor
Test HT leads

Will I be able to change the engine mount myself or will it need to be a garage job? Its the offside transverse mount.

Thanks again.
 
read codes report back
support engine under sump with trolley jack and wood so as not to damage sump
undo engine mounts (tight) replace
its a 20 minute job...........usually
 
Engine codes are as follows.

P0130 - O2 sensor circuit bank 1 sensor 1
P0460 - Fuel level sensor A circuit
P0202 - Injector circuit open cylinder 2
P0203 - Injector circuit open cylinder 3

Any help would be greatly appreciated gents.
 
202 and 203 are the likely culprits, I think. It's not unusual for one fault to trigger another.

The injectors are triggered on the negative side. Thus, any breakdown of the insulation will result in earthing out which will cause them to be open continually (or almost continually).

I'd begin by tracing the wires back from 2 and 3 injectors, looking for any breaks in the insulation. Chances are it'll be after the wires join (they'll merge into 1 wire at some point).

Redo the insulation (heat shrink would be the best way, but may not be practical) and I think you'll be fine after the codes have been cleared.
 
Phew, cheers mate, I thought it was going be an expensive and technical job. I'll affect the repairs and let you know how I get on. Thanks again gents.
 
Right then, I traced the injector cables back and found no breakdown in the insulation, so I then removed the throttle and fuel rail and removed the injectors. I tested the resistance of each injector and they where all around 14 Ohms so I knew they where good, I then rebuilt the engine, cleaning each connection as I went and the car now seems fine albeit a little lacking in power.
 
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