My 500 axle (under the 169 Panda) has now done a winter of salt and crud. All is well however.

The axle is from a 2015 Fiat 500. The condition was of course excellent but I reasoned a coat of Hammerite would not go amiss. So its was treated to 2 coats of brushed smooth silver. Before painting, I rounded off any sharp edges (where the metal was cut) with an angle grinder & flap wheel. Sharp edges thin the paint causing it to flake away.

After the winter there are a few rust stains creeping from under the metal edges. It's really no big deal and easily sorted with an anti corrosion spray. But annoying all the same.

If anyone wants to do this job or indeed clean up a 169 axle, I would suggest it is well worth the cost of grit blasting and zinc metal spray. You can paint over the top if you like.

Yes, it's belt & braces and I'm probably OCD about a bit of rust stain, but my car is a 2007 and this is the only area where it has shown it's age.

The cost would be about £50 to grit blast, then you have to prime and paint it costing considerable time and maybe >£30 in paint. £100 to grit blast and zinc spray the whole axle looks like a bargain.

Or do as I do and squirt 50/50 Waxoyl and old engine oil over it twice a year. Mine is 09, and lives by the sea. The axle isn't showing any rust yet.

I have a 5 gallon can of the stuff already mixed, and it has lasted me about four years so far, using the proper gun with my compressor.

About time to buy another can, as the last gun fill has just been made.

The downside is that you can't tell if there are any engine/transmission oil leaks, because when I do the axle I go over the whole car underside.

That does the job but it's messy and has to be redone regularly.

For anyone with a rusted axle it makes sense to fix the damage and stop the rust. If the spring pans need any reinforcement (as my old ones did) the axle is best taken off the car. Once that's done, you might as well protect it properly.

DaveMcT said:

That does the job but it's messy and has to be redone regularly.

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That's part of the point!
By getting under a couple of times a year, I can have a good old poke around and fix, adjust or renew anything that looks tired or dodgy.

I wonder how many car owners do that - apart from keen Panda types, of course.

True but all cars should be checked underneath but as you suggest its hidden away so ignore until it goes wrong.

For a car with a good axle it should be common sense to have it properly treated. Many don't have the facilities (the job can make a mess of any driveway), but it should not be costly to have the job done for you.

Those with a badly rusted axle have a simple choice. Scrap the car or fit a replacement axle. Most usable 169 axles cost a fortune and most are little better than the one on the car. The 500 axles fit and are in good supply. While it's out of the car it makes sense to protect it properly. The ultimate job costs about £100 on top of the axle cost. A "quick" paint over costs a few quid for paint, but a lot of time and after all that the result is only adequate.

DaveMcT said:

True but all cars should be checked underneath but as you suggest its hidden away so ignore until it goes wrong.

For a car with a good axle it should be common sense to have it properly treated. Many don't have the facilities (the job can make a mess of any driveway), but it should not be costly to have the job done for you.

Those with a badly rusted axle have a simple choice. Scrap the car or fit a replacement axle. Most usable 169 axles cost a fortune and most are little better than the one on the car. The 500 axles fit and are in good supply. While it's out of the car it makes sense to protect it properly. The ultimate job costs about £100 on top of the axle cost. A "quick" paint over costs a few quid for paint, but a lot of time and after all that the result is only adequate.

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500 rear beam swap isn't totally straight forward though and it's wider which can cause issues on the 100hp.

This and other threads on this forum about the rear beam have been really useful. My son drives an 09 1.1 Active Eco (I'm the fleet manager ) and just been cleaning up the beam.

Started from getting new tyres and seeing one of the rear shocks was leaking, and the rear springs were looking a bit corroded. So new springs and shocks at the back, and as laddo was away for a few days, chance to spruce up the beam.

Ragged the surface rust with drill powered wire brushes, followed by a coat of Kurust, followed by rust converting primer, followed by a coat of satin black and a coat of underseal with Waxoyl. Should have bought it a bit more time I hope!

Cheguava said:

My son drives an 09 1.1 Active Eco (I'm the fleet manager ) and just been cleaning up the beam.

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I am in the same boat, my son drives a 10 plate Active eco.

Have looked at the rear axle, and we will be dropping it out this summer, to derust and paint.

Have had a look at the past MOTs and corrosion on rear springs was an advisory.

So new springs, derust paint and Waxoil.

Obviously bank of Dad will be paying, but I will be dragging him underneath to help do the work, when I was his age I had to do it all myself.

H-A

I've spent (wasted) so much time over the years with grinders wire cup brushes, CureRusts, DRust, Rustoleum. Blah. Blah. They all rust.

Nothing works because there are always rusted places that fall loose after you've painted and theres rust in the bottom of corrosion pits that you cant get to.

I now have it professionally grit blasted and either powder coated or zinc sprayed. The latter is quite thin so etch prime and paint over with Hammerite.

The reality is that doing the job properly takes less time (and not a lot more cost) than grovelling under the car for hours getting crap into my eyes only to find it needs doing again a year later.

The one "product" that has worked amazingly well is ordinary chain saw oil thinned with white sprit. Spray it on with the cheap trigger spray bottle and wipe any over-spray off external bodywork. It soaks into the metal surface and creeps under rust - stops it dead. It then goes sticky and eventually dries. It's a nightmare to clean off (without grit blasting but it stops corrosion. Don't use if you intend to paint over the area at a later date.

Thinking of buying a 100HP. Some have gearbox issues so can anyone advise on what to look for?

If gearboxes need to be fixed or replaced can anyone suggest reliable suppliers?