Technical stuck cv-axle

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Technical stuck cv-axle

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Jul 20, 2016
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Hello again :), I've now changed front right, front left and rear left CV-axle on my panda, the fronts were really easy since its the same as on the 2wd, and theres loads of guides around, the rear was more annoying, but I've found a method which seem to work quite easily (at least on my left hand side axle, so I have been taking pictures to make a guide)...
On the right side it seems like the axle has gotten completely stuck inside the rear differential. :bang: I'm guessing the circlip has gotten stuck.. so any ideas as to how to get it out? I've tapped it with a hammer, broken 3 screwdrivers trying to pry it out, my larger prybars are either too thick or too flimsy to be any good, I've tried tying a piece of rope around it to pull it out, short of dismantling the rear diff, what can I do?:confused:

If anybody is wondering why I'm not just getting a different more well kept one, I found out yesterday that theres 15! 4x4 panda's on Danish license-plates, so there are none (and even fewer in this pretty avocado-green):eek:
 
Have you tried fitting the new shaft into the other side first?
That might help.

There's a couple of ways to pull a stubborn shaft from the diff.

First would be a Drive Shaft Slide Hammer.
http://tedperkins.com/driveshafts.htm
A fork or loop that fits inside the inner CV joint with a long bar and a sliding weight to knock it outwards.

I once made up one out of an exhaust clamp, a long bar and the head of an old hammer. It worked, but just the once.

Another way would be to fabricate a puller like this.
http://www.can-amtalk.com/forums/topic/12887-outlander-axle-drive-shaft-puller/
I've seen them made up where they the two halves fit behind the inner CV joint casing rather than on it.

You'd need to be careful on how to apply pressure with the bolts to the diff casing behind.
 
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i usually just use a hammer and a large blunt chisel. there is often a lip on the inner joint housing, so i give that a good thwack and that takes it out.

not sure if your car has that option though?
the slide hammer would work equally well.

is the joint housing ok? if there is no wear in it, then i would be tempted to clean it up, regrease and then fit the new joint in with the old housing.
 
One or maybe two of these should do it.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Workshop-...702689?hash=item1a24eda0e1:g:EJ0AAOSw5cNYkbm1

ctl5052011b.jpg
 
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I had tried all other suggestions than the slidehammer, which I got on my way home from work,I tied it to a vice grip,solved it in 3 minutes.....thanks for the help!
 
Fox wedges usually work fine. The shallow slope delivers more separation force per hammer blow. Use two opposing each other when a parallel separation is needed.
 
Fox wedges usually work fine. The shallow slope delivers more separation force per hammer blow. Use two opposing each other when a parallel separation is needed.

Yeah, I see how that would work, but there is no space to get to the back of the right hand side rear cv axle on account of the exhaust.. but if you have those and could make it work for you, I say go for it!
 
I have a slide hammer but almost always find I don't have a suitable fitting for the business end.
 
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