Technical REAR silencer heat shield maint.

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Technical REAR silencer heat shield maint.

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I had an annoying rattle driving today,
so once home and everything had cooled down it was time to wiggle the rear silencer..then work forward.

didn't have to move..as it was the Alloy foil heat shield, the "rivets" that should keep it tight to the floorpan have corroded away over 13 years, and it was now half-laid across the cars ( 3rd) silencer.

there is enough remaining of the last 1 x fixing to see it is / was essentially a "pop-rivet",
so I will have to get under there and attempt to drill out and replace..,

will take time ..as removing the spare wheel seems sensible:rolleyes:

similar to parts 2 + 3 here
http://eper.fiatforum.com/eper/navi...3&WINDOW_ID=1&SGRP_COD=58&SGS_COD=2&DRW_NUM=1

Charlie
 
So you need to find new 'bolts' (figure 3) of the diagram?

Or, do you need to refit these bolts to keep the alloy shield in place?

If its like my front catalytic convertor heat shield, the harsh conditions of it have caused the shield bolts to essentially break off of the shield, allowing it to be free. Sounds like what has happened to you?

It'll be interesting to hear how you will fix it :)
 
Short bolts and large diameter washers will do the job. If you use stainless always fit anti shake nuts (nyloc) and use a copper paste between stainless washer and aluminium. It sounds like overkill but electrolytic corrosion will quickly eat aluminium in contact with stainless.

Zinc plated bolts & washers are better but the ordinary cheap stuff at Halfords has much too little zinc. Get some quality exterior grade washers.

Why so fussy? Has anyone seen the mount of salt these days. Under the car, it wont get washed away come summer but warmer wet weather will continue the corrosion.
 
Hoping to use pop rivets..either OS Heads. Or washers

I'll compare with the modern punto to gause the correct look.

Its all better than the crap disc affairs fitted to PSA cars.

TBH they wont last long and you'll need a helper to hold things in place while you fire the rivets. With all that you mights as well use M6 stainless screws. Flanged button heads will not create an ugly lump under the floor.

If you have to cut them (you probably will) make sure the cut ends are smoothed off as burrs will chew into the nyloc and cause the nuts to shake loose. Top tip run a nut down the thread and hacksaw against it. Unscrewing the nut pushes burrs out so they can more easily be filed off.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M6-6mm-A2...hash=item53f98c4a1a:m:msmmy5FH6V-hORri7Ae5q4w
 
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made an attempt at it on Friday PM..
soon realised that the silencer is obscuring access to 2 of the 4 , so have removed the shield for the time being.., and will refit in the summer - when the next silencer goes on,

(could be a full system this time, as the original under-body tube has lasted since 2004..)

the originals heat shield mounts were just alloy rivets, and have lasted 12 years..

Charlie
 
Rivets are ok but can be so awkward to set that they never pull fully tight. They then fatigue and break. Bolts and nuts cost a few pennies more but with some large repair washers its done for good.
 
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