Hi guys, I'm about to tackle the job of cleaning up and waxoyling the coil spring cups on the rear of our newly bought 100hp after seeing a few horror stories on here. They look in pretty good fettle compared to those but does anyone have any advice on how many cans of waxoyl spray I'd need too do the job?

ta!

I should have thought one can would do the job. One note about 'proper' Waxoyl is that it's usually better in internal cavities than it is in exposed locations. For that reason it might be better to look for something that is specifically designed for the underside of the car - there are Waxoyl / Hammerite mixes (which would work on the main axle beam between the two rear wheels). For the cups I used Bilt Hamber wax (Dynax UC).

Whatever you do, make sure the drain holes in the centre of the suspension 'pans'/cups are still clear when you've finished!

One aerosol can of Waxoyle is plenty for your job, with enough left over to repeat the dose next year.

I have used Waxoyle for many years on car undersides, with never a problem. When I get the car on a ramp, or when it's up in the air at Mot time, the coating is still good.

Others have said that a mix of Waxoyle and Hammerite is better, but I have experimented with trying to mix the two, and it doesn't work for me - they just don't mix.

So I now mix Waxoyle and used engine oil 50/50. Works well.

Great stuff guys thanks for the advice, for ease I think I'll try aerosol waxoyl and see how it fares! ??

Hi guys one other query - I've read mixed reviews of the aerosol stuff regarding how well it comes out of the can (or not!) - anyone had any experience or am I better with the non - spray stuff?

ta

Stonefish71 said:

Hi guys one other query - I've read mixed reviews of the aerosol stuff regarding how well it comes out of the can (or not!) - anyone had any experience or am I better with the non - spray stuff?

ta

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I've found it's fine (even on not-so-new cans) but it can be helpful to have a paintbrush handy to spread the stuff if you need to.

Cool thanks a lot I'll get some bought then..

Warm the can in a bowl of hot water before use.
It is designed to 'fix' at normal temperatures - that's why it sticks to the surfaces it's sprayed onto.

Warming the can makes it easier to squirt and easier to flow for a few minutes afterwards.

Scrape away any flaking rust and do the whole axle; especially shock mounts spring cups and hub carriers.

Ive had success with chain saw oil thinned with white spirit. It stays liquid for longer so soaks into the metal and rust pores better than Waxoyl. Over time it sets like a varnish so clean it off anything you want to keep clean.

Thanks for all the advice so far guys, another q before I start - I don't have the equipment/setup to allow the rear axle to come off for me to sort away from the car - can the job still be done well enough with axle in situ, car jacked up/on stands?

Stonefish71 said:

Thanks for all the advice so far guys, another q before I start - I don't have the equipment/setup to allow the rear axle to come off for me to sort away from the car - can the job still be done well enough with axle in situ, car jacked up/on stands?

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Yes it can - easily, as long as you can get under to eyeball what you're doing.

Thanks very much, can certainly manage that, just wasn't sure if the springs needed to be out of their cups to help treat underneath, I guess its just a case of cleaning up as well as is possible and applying plenty of stuff around the base of the springs (whilst keeping the drain holes clear!)

For some example coatings look at www.frost.co.uk

A proper clean and refinish would be a better idea. I personally much prefer Dinitrol products, ! airosol of this would cover a lot of the car!

The axle is so vulnerable it would be 100% better to take it off the car.

Support the car on axle stands under the rear jacking points. Disconnect hand brake cables and the two hydraulic hoses. If you buy replacement hoses you can simply cut the old hoses and plug the cut end to prevent the fluid draining out.

The axle has only 6 retaining bolts. Keep them safe and reuse later with a decent anti seize paste.

It's a bit more hassle but you'll get a MUCH better job done. Bearing in mind the rarity of Panda 100bhp back axles it's really the only way to go.

I would use PJI Blue label chain spray, it goes on like WD40, and when the solvent has evaporated, it is a wax. The product soaks into the rust really well, I have used it on lots of things other than motorcycle chains. It wont wash off, is not harmful to rubber like brake hoses and suspension bushes as it is designed to lubricate O ring chains.

tinmar49 said:

I would use PJI Blue label chain spray, it goes on like WD40, and when the solvent has evaporated, it is a wax. The product soaks into the rust really well, I have used it on lots of things other than motorcycle chains. It wont wash off, is not harmful to rubber like brake hoses and suspension bushes as it is designed to lubricate O ring chains.

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Great idea but do be sure all flaking metal is cleaned off. No treatment will work if it can't contact the parent metal.

The PJI chain spray is so thin when it is first applied that it penetrates by capillary action even better than Waxoil can. It will go straight under flaking paint and soaks into rust, you wouldn't have to dismantle anything, just keep it away from the brakes.

Ive used various lubes on bike chains so know it's good stuff. But you've clearly not seem my rusting axle.

• Flaking paint - check.
• Rust falling off - check.
• Paint peeling in sheets - check.
• Metal delaminating - check.

Use all these products before the situation gets too bad. Leave it too long and you'll need to be welding on new bits of metal.

A quick look at my duty but not broken Panda axle, the problem seems to be at the front side of the spina pans about 1" from the weld to the swing arm tube.

It's generally a mess but that area especially so. I wonder if its stress corrosion speeding up the rotting rate. Some 3mm x 40mm x 100mm long steel strip could be welded to both sides and to the swing arm. The remaining metal is strong so probably no benefit in welding a strip all the way around the springs pans.

The bottom shock mounts need an angle bracket reinforcement. Stress again?

The inserted reinforcing web at the front of the spring pans is welded on one side it invites a crack through the weld. Weld up the other side.

Apart from a grit blast and paint or powder coat that's it. Repairs before it fails are much better than waiting for the spring pan to fall off..

tinmar49 said:

I would use PJI Blue label chain spray, it goes on like WD40, and when the solvent has evaporated, it is a wax. The product soaks into the rust really well, I have used it on lots of things other than motorcycle chains. It wont wash off, is not harmful to rubber like brake hoses and suspension bushes as it is designed to lubricate O ring chains.

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Sounds like this is the one as I'm pretty sure my axle is still pretty solid touch wood, I'll track some down and get it sorted over the next few weeks before 'summer' ends! I'll take some pics and get them up on here when I do it too, thanks again for all the advice fellas!

PS - is this the stuff?

http://motorcycleparts-uk.co.uk/pj1-chain-lube-1-08-blue-label.html