After having this problem with the sqweaky peddle etc, and peddle stuck to the floor, reading many replies and posts from people. I have come to the following conclusion. people all try to help saying "master cylinder" - "low fluid" - "water in fluid" etc etc here is my 2 penny worth ( yorkshire saying lol ) go for the slave cylinder first. i pulled the boot off ( oh and while we are on about the boot and the funny little part of a tie wrap thats there - will explain in a min ) spray it with wd40 or similar will work for a few days at least. then get a new / second hand one. i have spray arm etc, and all over the slave cylinder seemed to cure for a few days. even bought a second hand one for £15 off fleabay, not had to fit it yet but carry it in car just in case as is only 10 min job to do it. So how can i be sure its the slave ? I saw a add on ebay for a slave cylinder and says fits panda & ford KA. looked up ford KA and the cylinder is the same, even same numbers on it. ok so same part so what ? look on the ford KA forums. loads of posts about clutch sticking to the floor etc.
only common thing is the same slave cylinder . same one - same fault. ok wont cure 100% of faults but is a good start.
now the little bit of white tie wrap under the black one. this is just to hold the plunger in while you fit it, it is then cut to release it for use.
have a look at picture ( thats if i have uploaded it properly )

perhaps this is fitted to a later variant , bulit alongsdie the ford,
our 04 , active 1.1 is still perfect,@70K = only time clutch pedal has stuck, is when I've got the floor mat caught under it..,
Charlie

my dynamic 1.2 stuck the day i picked it up (32k ) and had a good spray round and inside the slave seemed to cure it for a few days, ordered a second hand one from ebay ( just in case ) but been ok for a week now so fingers crossed, incidently I think they only fitted them on the KA from 2008 onwards, still could be worse could be a concentric one, box out just to get to it

Ah, thanks for this. Have a 2006 1.2 Dynamic (bought second hand) and the clutch stuck on two driving occasions - very disconcerting needless to say. On both occasions it was after a fellow from the panel beaters (a long story) drove it to collect me from work. What he might have done to the clutch while driving heaven knows. Fortunately, no sticking since then but if it does, will now know what to tell the mechanic . He was convinced that it was the mat... :-( and I know it damn well it wasn't.

Same problem.

Just bought a second hand Dynamic 1.4 myself, a real bargain only one owner from new in 2007, low mileage 7300 on clock and full service history,
it had been stood since Feb this year as the owner was an elderly friend & neighbour whose eyesight was failing.
Not much to do with it to get it back up & running, after cleaning out the moss growing below the wipers and bulkhead under the bonnet, replaced the wipers which were stuck to the windscreen, put a new battery on it and bingo! she fired up first turn of the key.
I could not believe my luck however that was short lived, I moved the car from my neighbours drive two doors up the road and parked it outside of my house on the road, went inside to check the size of an armchair I had promised a friend to see if it would go in the boot, it would so my Brother and I carried it out and loaded it up to also give the car a run, got into the drivers seat, belt on fired her up checked my mirror and shock horror there wasn't one, I was only in the house for 5 minutes and someone had driven past and smashed the DS mirror off.
I drove the 5 miles to my friends house and when I came out to drive home I couldn't find the clutch, on investigation it was stuck to the floor so tapped it a few times and it popped up, pressed it down again to engage gear and it stuck again, with a little toing and froing I got it underway and it was fine whilst driving but was a cause for concern after checking the car mat, the fluid level and having no leaks it is a mystery, it does have a squeak when you press the pedal which may disappear with a squirt of WD as suggested but if it is only a temporary solution it may be advisable to change the slave cylinder for starters.
Sorry for the long winded post any advise would be welcome .

Air in the hydraulic system will cause the pedal to go down and not return. It also causes difficult gear shifting and struggles to engage first gear. Air gets in via the master cylinder seals. They will do this long before they leak any hydraulic fluid.

If the slave seal fails it will leak fluid under the seal dust cover. It's unlikely to suck in air from that end. However. it is cheap to replace. If the (so called) quick release connector under the near side wheel arch will not separate just disconnect the pipe at the slave cylinder. There is a wire retaining clip that's VERY easy to lose. So take care. I use a magnetic stick to hold the clip so if/when I lose my grip it should still be safe.

DO NOT LOSE THE NEW PIPE THAT COMES WITH THE SLAVE CYLINDER.
You will need it when the master is replaced (as it probably will be soon enough).

The slave cylinder bleed nipple is a socket hex head grub screw adjacent to the bleed hose stub connector. It's worth taking the screw out and wrapping the threads with PTFE tape as they always dribble fluid while bleeding the system.

You can bleed the clutch single handed -
If the dropping pedal problem returns, or if you struggle to bleed out the air then you will need a new master cylinder. It comes complete with new pipe and QD connector so you will need the slave cylinder pipe that you put aside last time. Use a good coating of anti seize copper paste on the male bayonet but keep it off the fluid side of the O ring. The fitting is aluminium with a stainless spring inside so corrodes badly. The paste will give you more chance of separating it at a later date.

Very useful information thank you Dave.