General no power end of tether

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General no power end of tether

gregyoung

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after cleaning egr valve,and maf sensor car still wont rev over 3000 rpm at a loss as what to do next .mate put it on diagnostic machine and it came up with a fault code he had never seen before.i must say that from my experiences with the 2 fiats i have owned this will be the last one i will ever buy unless it can be sorted out quickly and cheaply.
 
after cleaning egr valve,and maf sensor car still wont rev over 3000 rpm at a loss as what to do next .mate put it on diagnostic machine and it came up with a fault code he had never seen before.i must say that from my experiences with the 2 fiats i have owned this will be the last one i will ever buy unless it can be sorted out quickly and cheaply.

Hi, what engine etc is it and what was the code?
 
Did you sort this? I have the same problem, and when I drop it at the garage tomorrow, I want to be armed with many things for them to try. EGR, maf and map are three of them...
 
The 1.9 jtd has issues with the turbo. The diaphragm in the actuator splits so the waste gate can't be operated. Get the garage to put a vac on the actuator and see if the arm moves.
If there is a fault with the egr cleaning will not help now it will need to be blocked off. The throttle body, airmass sensor and boost pressure sensor will also give you the same issues. If you can tell me what fault was in the system I may be able to narrow it down a bit.
 
Hi,
I've just had this issue with my 2004 1.9jtd. Turned out to be the boost control valve. I had blanked the EGR off last year (best thing I ever did) so I knew it wasn't that. Normally if EGR is stuck the car will run rough at low revs. I spent a lot of time searching on here for advice, and finally got the car sorted. I was quoted £160+vat+delivery for the new part. I got a second hand one of off fleabay for £10 delivered. It is from an alfa romao 147 but fits just fine. It's worth checking all of the tubes for splits etc. What I did was to disconnect the vaccuum pipe from the boost valve and connect it directly to the red pipe that runs to the turbo actuator. When I did this with the engine running I could see the actuator moving therefore I deduced that the valve must be faulty. As there was a voltage at the terminal it must have been a mechanical failure. I did run the car for a very short time like this and it was fine however it was running at max boost all the time. I am in no way mechanical I haven't touched any tools since I owned a VW camper. But I didn't fancy leaving it with a garage again who couldn't guarentee afix but who would still charge like a wounded rhino. In the end fixed for £10 and a few hours getting mucky.

If you need some photos to help locate parts I am more than happy to do that. The attached is a picture of the boost control valve that was replaced.

Good luck,

John
 

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