Hi, Im hoping someone can help, I've never posted before but have read posts on the forum for a while. Had the Multipla for a couple of years now. Here goes..

I have an 04 Multi and plan to upgrade the speakers and head unit this weekend. I also have a subwoofer to add but am going to see how the 'easy' bits go before taking that on...

I've been reading the new head unit (Pioneer DEH-3300UB) installation instructions and am not sure how to find out whether the factory ISO power connector is compatible with the one on the new stereo. The instructions say "The pin position of the ISO connector will differ depending on the type of vehicle. Connect (9) and (11) when pin 5 is an antenna control type. In another type of vehicle never connect (9) and (11)."

(9) and (11) are the ends of the unconnected blue wires - with the plastic ends. See pics below (tried to get them in the right place!)

I've searched the net and I *think* it's ok and I can connect it as fiat isnt mentioned as one of the exceptions, but I'd like to be a bit more certain. anyone know how I can find out for sure or what to look for, how can I tell if pin 5 of the multipla connector is "an antenna control type"?

Also, on the subwoofer (it has a built in amp), there is a thin blue wire described as the 'remote turn on' which needs to be connected to the remote cable on the head unit. If that is the blue wire seen with a label on in the pic, then how should I connect them? Just strip, twist together and cover with tape?

Thanks in advance.

Oblong said:

Hi, Im hoping someone can help, I've never posted before but have read posts on the forum for a while. Had the Multipla for a couple of years now. Here goes..

I have an 04 Multi and plan to upgrade the speakers and head unit this weekend. I also have a subwoofer to add but am going to see how the 'easy' bits go before taking that on...

I've been reading the new head unit (Pioneer DEH-3300UB) installation instructions and am not sure how to find out whether the factory ISO power connector is compatible with the one on the new stereo. The instructions say "The pin position of the ISO connector will differ depending on the type of vehicle. Connect (9) and (11) when pin 5 is an antenna control type. In another type of vehicle never connect (9) and (11)."

(9) and (11) are the ends of the unconnected blue wires - with the plastic ends. See pics below (tried to get them in the right place!)

I've searched the net and I *think* it's ok and I can connect it as fiat isn't mentioned as one of the exceptions, but I'd like to be a bit more certain. anyone know how I can find out for sure or what to look for, how can I tell if pin 5 of the Multipla connector is "an antenna control type"?

Also, on the subwoofer (it has a built in amp), there is a thin blue wire described as the 'remote turn on' which needs to be connected to the remote cable on the head unit. If that is the blue wire seen with a label on in the pic, then how should I connect them? Just strip, twist together and cover with tape?

Thanks in advance.

Click to expand...

HiYa Oblong,

- don't know about the ' woofer ' but my rear camera / USB / Video etc are down to the stereo brand / model .. .. not the ISO connector
- the ISO in the bug is a EURO standard
- mine went in first time, other then the RT phone
- the RT phone needed a [ see the bottom of post ] pin~swap
- tape is brill for about a minute, don't do it a 12v solder iron is about a tenner
- you mention but don't explain why you need a [ 12V supply ] antenna connector ?
- BTW you should try the existing speakers first .. .. you may be surprised at what you hear with a good input
- only ' chavs ' use sub~woofers, active or otherwise, they do nothing for you at all in the car and are a phallic only badge :bang:

- its a free world, thank god, go and pi$$ off everyone / house you pass if that's your thing
- or go see your GP, he will syringe your ears free of charge
- the internal square volume of anything other than a 48 seat coach will not be better sound with a woofer - it just bends the roof

Pin Swap : a plug is a plug, its a lump of plastic that little yellow men pushed in at maufacuring level. A pair of needle point pliers - pull the bit~o~metal out and stick into a different hole per the diagram.

Thanks for your reply, the stereo manual doesn't mention EURO standard but I guess what you've said implies I'm probably ok and I should connect the wires - so that's what I'll do.

I have a soldering iron so I'll use that but shouldn't it go into a terminal block or something? Or wrapped in tape aswell?

Re. the 'antenna control', I don't need one, I just need to be able to recognise one to know if the connector is compatible or not (I don't even know what one is).

My existing fromt 6.5" speakers (mid-bass) are broken (distort) so that's why I'm replacing.

Re sub-woofers.. well I'm not a chav and I don't have a phallus but I like listening to music - some of it genres where bass is more important like drum'n'bass and dubstep. My husband's car has a sub fitted (factory) and I can *really* tell the difference, I'm jealous and the Multi is also our family car we use for longer trips so that's my justification! I'm not spending much on it and it's removable (more justification).

You don't have to turn a sub-woofer up ridiculously loud.. just enough to get the full range.

Well I'll honestly let you know if it was a waste of time/effort once I've had a listen.

ob

Oblong said:

Thanks for your reply, the stereo manual doesn't mention EURO standard but I guess what you've said implies I'm probably ok and I should connect the wires - so that's what I'll do.

I have a soldering iron so I'll use that but shouldn't it go into a terminal block or something? Or wrapped in tape aswell?

Re. the 'antenna control', I don't need one, I just need to be able to recognise one to know if the connector is compatible or not (I don't even know what one is).

My existing fromt 6.5" speakers (mid-bass) are broken (distort) so that's why I'm replacing.

Re sub-woofers.. well I'm not a chav and I don't have a phallus but I like listening to music - some of it genres where bass is more important like drum'n'bass and dubstep. My husband's car has a sub fitted (factory) and I can *really* tell the difference, I'm jealous and the Multi is also our family car we use for longer trips so that's my justification! I'm not spending much on it and it's removable (more justification).

You don't have to turn a sub-woofer up ridiculously loud.. just enough to get the full range.

Well I'll honestly let you know if it was a waste of time/effort once I've had a listen.

ob

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My existing front 6.5" speakers the specific reason I highlighted this was because my own original Blankpunt Blue Spot install sounded exactly as you describe: rattle & distort & generally broken. Just simply wiring my new stereo to them, nothing more than that meant that they were not broken at all, indeed they were a damn good set of four more than capable of handling a modern output unit. It saved me the time / money / work of installing a new set.

soldering iron yes you do need to protect, use sleeving or self amalgamating tape the ordinary domestic plastic stuff will unravel in the first summer. Sleeving is easy, cut to length / put on before soldering / when soldered pull it over the joint and stroke it gently with the soldering iron for a tight solid fit.

active subs any base response is omni unlike the other speakers in your set up. This means that for the 10% benefit you choose to get you inflict the other 90% on a world that did not choose to be infected, that's not too bad if they are passive but active woofers should have a five thousand percent tax levy applied before purchase, and an annual doubling of the road tax for polluting other peoples environment. Yes a pollution tax just like all other polluters. I'll let the active woofer bit go now, as stated earlier its a free world.

If you get into trouble with the wiring [ particularly the ISO ] let me know there are loads of ready-made inexpensive converters around.

Just a quick update, I found the answer Iwas looking for re. the ISO adapter here (it's not needed):

'car compatability chart' on easy car audio site (can't post urls yet)

ob

Oblong said:

Just a quick update, I found the answer Iwas looking for re. the ISO adapter here (it's not needed):

'car compatibility chart' on easy car audio site (can't post urls yet)

ob

Click to expand...

Good, if you get stuck .. .. loads of people on here with lots of hands~on~experience with all things Bugly

Thanks

I have made progress today. Installed the head unit and 3 of the speakers (ran out of time). Speakers were straightforward but I had trouble with the head unit.

What I don't understand is how to secure the unit in place at the right height. Does it have to be secured with a metal brace to the car in some way? or is it just a question of using the metal tabs on the metal insert/sleeve (which is what I did)? The way I have it now looks fine but it is a bit difficult to get the removable face off the stereo as the button you press in the corner is flush with the fascia. Does that sound right?

I had to remove the cup holder and ash tray part of the car to make sure the wires weren't being compromised. Was fine tho.

ob.

Yeh should have warned you 'bout the plastic bits' removal.

There is / has been for decades a security bolt system at the back for holding it in~line & secure, but the insert collar [ the square meta bit ] is almost all thats ever required to make a vibration free fit. I have found the old collar if its an identical fit [ and it usually is ] is best, simply because its served the purpose since manufacture.

Regarding the security bolt bit, never bothered with it for twenty years. If they are going to have it they will, and if you make it impossible to steal they will smash all the clocks and leave you with a bigger bill than just loosing your sounds.

Regarding height. All Blankpunt's are short, the shortest radio's in the world. On both of mine I've had to [ pad saw ] cut out the bottom of the orifice to accommodate the depth of the new set.

On stability if your length fits and you want to make it more stable there's nothing better than two or more small bits of wood / polystyrene top / bottom / left / right / rear or whatever, but use small pieces to allow maximum airflow. TBH the square metal collar should be more than enough for you needs.

On getting the face off, I've just downloaded your manual and yes it is unusually close / deep to the edge, no solution to that I'm afraid but I'm confident within weeks you'll get the ' knack ' of the in~and~out of the head unit. The only other option is to file away a ' crescent ' shape piece out of the blanking plate and if you want to sell it later replace with a new blanking plate.

Thanks for the tip, you are right tho, I feel happy after sleeping on it that the button to remove the face won't matter much. It looks neat and it works and it's stable so I'm happy

I finished installing the 6 speakers today, sounds great. I struggled a bit finding a way to attach the tweeters. They came with a few options in the form plastic bits but with no actual instructions so had to fathom it myself. I also had trouble working out how to connect the tweeter wires. The multipla factory tweeters had a capacitor built on to them and I could see which wire went through to it - my new tweeters had a capacitor on one of the two wires so I connected the capacitor wire to the old capacitor wire and I am pretty confident that's right as they sound good. I used the heat-shrink sleevestuff and soldered the wires as advised

I have taken pics of various things and when I've finished I'll post something that illustrates what I did.

I *might* tackle the sub tomorrow and my biggest worry is the removal of bits of the interior to get at the wire-running places. I have a tool like this (see pic)

..but to be honest I don't know how to use it, any tips or links that might help?

I can't give a factual answer as in my two cases I never had to remove the trim to ' run a wire ' but from previous experience on other parts of the bugly :

- trim is almost always a ' push fit ' other than the door cards & roof cards

- the tack claw [ in your pic ] is as good as anything, but remember it will be hardened and tempered and will be capable of a lot of force

- if the elbow of the tack claw is in danger of removing paint or whatever, give it a couple of turns of leccy tape or a temporary sheath of ' sleeving '

- gently bently, and always capable of being reversed till you get the knack is the way I suppose

I can't see you are doing anything wrong, I would approach it in the exactly the same way as you, and you have been 100% right up to this point. Let everyone know how you get on

Ok, just an update, had not had time to apply myself to installing the sub-woofer until today.

But... I have just given up and had to accept that I will take it to be installed by a pro.

The problem has been getting the power wire from the battery through to the car interior. I think I have the right place to push it through (on the left as you're looking at the engine from the outside - there's a fat bundle of wires and a smaller wire, both going through seperate holes. I couldn't see a way to get the new wire in with the large bundle but it went nicely through the stretchy grommit around the narrower wire. Unfortunately I just couldn't locate it in the interior of the car however hard I tried. Very frustrating! But I just don't have the confidence to remove any of the dash trim.

If anyone has experience of removing the dash trim I'd be interested in any further advice before I book the car in tomorrow!

Cheers Ob.

Ok, I had a break and had another go with help.
Managed to get the power wire through to the car interior, discovered the wire is too short and had to go and buy extra.

When in the car audio shop, the workshop guy came through and I was able to ask him if there was a shorter route to the back of a multipla. He said.. 'no', I suppose bevcause the Multipla has no central area where the handbrake usually is, the routing of stuff is different. Means more stripping of interior bits for me.. will have another go at finishing it at the weekend.

Ob.

Oblong, looks like you know what your doing ok.
Shame not everyone appreciates the benefit of a subwoofer and how the sound is sooo much richer , if its only a small subb with built in amp why not just use the 12 volt feed allready in the boot as in the ciggy lighter?

With regards to the blue wire , you could allways just double it up with the power input wire and put a switch in the boot for the times its just you in the car with the subb on.
If you want to run the power from the front the trim along the endges of the carpets are held with phillips screws and can be removed in minutes and just place the wiring in there, if your gonna go all top end then run the phono wires down one side and the power on the other .

Oblong, sounds like you've nailed the sound system in the multipla.
I've just acquired one for a European rally in a few monta and desperately need some good tunes in there. I've replaced the head unit and the 17cm speakers in the front door. But would love some advice regarding the tweeters, rear door speakers and potentially adding a small bass unit. What have you used as replacements? Any recommendations for a suitable small woofer? All advice appreciated greatly.
Tim

Oblong said:

Ok, I had a break and had another go with help.
Managed to get the power wire through to the car interior, discovered the wire is too short and had to go and buy extra.

Click to expand...

I know this thread has been inactive for a couple of years, but in the vain hope that the OP is still around - how did you get the wire through from the engine compartment into the car interior?
I've been battling with this for a week now and haven't discovered the secret yet! Have tried pushing it through the same grommet as other wiring looms, but haven't managed to find it poking through on the other side yet. Have tried this from both directions too.
Cheers!
David

Upgraded ICE!?

I'm surprised that you can hear it at all over the clatter of knackered suspension joints/track rod ends...

BrixtonBiker said:

I know this thread has been inactive for a couple of years, but in the vain hope that the OP is still around - how did you get the wire through from the engine compartment into the car interior?
I've been battling with this for a week now and haven't discovered the secret yet! Have tried pushing it through the same grommet as other wiring looms, but haven't managed to find it poking through on the other side yet. Have tried this from both directions too.
Cheers!
David

Click to expand...

Hi, I've just fed a power lead through the bulkhead in my Multipla. I removed the wiper arms and the bulbous panel that contains the main beam lights. On the right hand side, you'll see a big bundle of cables going through the bulkhead. I drilled a hole next to it and put a grommit in there. When the main beam panel is removed, you will also see an unused grommit on the bottom of this section, leading into the engine bay. I cut a hole in this and fed the cable into the engine bay (conveniently near the battery). Hope this helps.

James.

Hey James
Excellent - this is just the info I needed!
Next question - how does that panel come off?
Cheers!
David

(Oh - and "Disgusted" of Tonbridge Wells - this is why the upgraded ICE is needed - to block out the sound of the suspension falling apart!)

Jambo1 said:

Hi, I've just fed a power lead through the bulkhead in my Multipla. I removed the wiper arms and the bulbous panel that contains the main beam lights. On the right hand side, you'll see a big bundle of cables going through the bulkhead. I drilled a hole next to it and put a grommit in there. When the main beam panel is removed, you will also see an unused grommit on the bottom of this section, leading into the engine bay. I cut a hole in this and fed the cable into the engine bay (conveniently near the battery). Hope this helps.

James.

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Hi David

Pleased it helps you. I could not find any information anywhere on getting a power cable into the boot of the Multipla and it took me hours of messing before I decided upon this method and once I did, it didn't really take that long.

First of all remove the wiper arms. I had to purchase a Sealey wiper arm remover for £13 from ebay as my arms were stuck onto the splines (yours probably will be too). With the arms removed, remove the black plastic cover which is held in with posi screws. With the cover removed you will have access to the 10mm bolts holding the panel on. With the bonnet open, there are two or three bolts along the bottom front edge of the panel too and two screws at the sides of panel which you will access with the doors open.

With these removed, you can just lift the panel off and unplug the main beam lamps.

Then as mentioned, you'll see the bundle of cables mounted onto a raised section of the bulkead. From inside the car if you get down on the floor in the passenger footwell and stick your hand up behind the heater fan box, just after the top of the carpet you will feel the boot where these cables enter the car. This will give you an indication as to where to look for your cable after you've drilled a hole.

I drilled a hole just on the right hand edge of the raised section on the bulkhead. I don't know if you're used to doing this sort of thing but I used a conical hole cutter after drilling a pilot hole and it took seconds.

With the hole drilled, file it to make it smooth and place a grommit in the hole (I had to trim some of the grommit away where the two edges meet due to the thickness of the bulkhead). Again, there is a grommit already where you can then feed the cable down into the engine bay, just cut a hole in this and poke it down and it will come out quite near the battery. Also make sure you place an in line fuse holder and fuse near the battery, just in case it ever shorts, I don't think the Multipla will look pretty in flames.

With the cable in the passenger footwell, you'll be able to feed it into the moulding on the leading edge of the door and along the kick plate. I had trouble getting the 4 gauge cable I used through the B pillar, so cut the plastic kick plate, fed it under the passenger seat, then back out, into the rear kick plate and into the boot.

In the boot, you'll find a convenient hole Fiat made just for you to mount an earth lead inside the little access panel to change the off side lamps. A bit of wire wool here and and you're set.

Hoping this helps, if you have any questions, I'll try and help.

James.