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Old 28-11-2016   #61
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Re: John Dragon Man's Citroen BX Diesel Estate

Quote Originally Posted by cotswoldtony View Post
Hi, this is the first time I have seen what you are do with your BX. I worked on and ran 2 diesel BX's back in the early 19 90's they were loved by reps and m.p.g was great. They will do half a million miles and all the high mileage ones I took heads off had little or no wear in the bores. They suffered with over heating problems mainly due to no temperature gauge just water level warning lights. I will follow your progress with interest.
I noticed you changed the injection pump, I hope you fitted the correct one as there are two different makes fitted to BX's diesels, Bosch and Lucas both set differently for the engine size, injectors and valve timing.
Just a small point good luck hope you get it running soon. Tony
thanks! the injector pump originally was a bosch type one on this replacement engine. it did have the modern style pump on it with EGR regulation but i put an older pump on it as i would be bringing none of that over to the BX.

i am not sure on pump timing, i know i do need to set it right. i am also using a cam shaft from out of a none turbo diesel BX as the lift is slightly higher than on the turboed one. tuning will be fun but i sure it will be doable

today i picked up the turbo adaptor plate i had made up and tonight after work i had a bit of a play with it, it seems to fit nicely after a bit of grinding overly long bolt threads down a bit. i just have to hope that the variable vane actuator does not foul on the intake manifold. i cant test it fully as at home i dont have the engine here to test it with.

i just need now to make a 90 degree elbow for the turbo's exhaust exit. i'd like it to be made out of stainless.. one day i would love a stainless exhaust made up for it.

if i could also find somewhere that would re-chrome my headlamp reflectors and not charge silly money, that would be nice
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Old 10-12-2016   #62
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Re: John Dragon Man's Citroen BX Diesel Estate

hmm not much to report really.. the turbo adaptor plate looks like this now:







just waiting on a gasket coming from France, then it can be bolted to the engine.

this is the next task at hand.. this is the 90 degree "elbow" i had made.. which is way too big, even though i gave the dimensions i needed. so i am having this adapted at yet more cost to get it to fit right.




heres a few close ups of the head lamp reflectors:









So what i am going to be doing is fitting some bi-xenon projector lenses. bi-xenon meaning they do both high and low beam.
the hard part will be getting a small "window" ground into the original headlamp's glass so the original markings on the head lamp wont affect the cut offs of the projector lens.



the aim is to make the headlamps look as if the car does not have them. besides the small circular shaped window in the centre of the head lamps, they should be unnoticeable. as far as legalities go, it does not matter what kind of headlamp produces the output light so long as it is in the correct beam pattern and level with good cut offs.

its a tough thing, once you go projector lense you never really want to go back. i only use 55w halogen H1 bulbs in project fallout but the beam and cut off compared to the original lamps are worlds apart.

Project Fallout:

yes this is the car i drive at the moment for those who never really venture into the panda classic section, never had any issues with the police or MOTs. thats me the guy in black.

when my brother swapped his halogen bulbs out for LED, the result was galaxies apart with a much tighter beam cut off. that was on a modern car with factory fit projector lenses. i dont think it is something i would do however... though it would be nice if i could get some low colour temperature LED's.. say 3500 - 4000k..



i also bit the bullet and bought some steering boot gators from citroen. anyway 5 more gators later..



im going to on the look out for a xantia one as i have been told they will stretch over the stupid design.. i mean the steering ram connector.

i'll try and do a video at some point.. it has been a month or so since i have.
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Old 10-12-2016   #63
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Re: John Dragon Man's Citroen BX Diesel Estate

Quote Originally Posted by Dragon Man View Post
thats me the guy in black.
This description is accurate, on any day it is accurate
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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #64
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Re: John Dragon Man's Citroen BX Diesel Estate

sadly no video yet but i have built the engine up enough to actually beed diesel right the way through to the injectors and into the cylinders.
engine is filled with oil, turbo is bolted to the back as are its oil feed and return (but not hooked up to the intake manifold yet).
i sadly ran out of time (and batteries) to get it fully running. i managed to get white smoke from the exhaust so glow plugs and a good battery should get the thing running.
now i have no coolant as the engine is still out of the car so it would only be a test fire.
i am not convinced that the injection pump is timed in right, on the belt it is timed up right, but i think the rotation is not good.


i have some new belts on order. i had to have the multi V belt that works the alternator and AC compressor made sadly. somehow the original belt is 10mm too long! how that happened i do not know. the original belt size is 1220mm inside measurement. strange...
one original but loose belt, note the alternator all the way out:


i have also replaced the pesky steering boot. it seems to work ok. xantia ones do stretch which is much better.

oh and the original 70k starter was sized solid.. so the one that was on the replacement engine has temporarily gone on while i strip it down and grease it all up.

i need to find a electric vacuum pump to work the turbos actuator. some diesel VW/Audi/Volvos have them just got to wait for a car to come in as scrap that has one on.. lately we have been getting loads of jags in!. i have a nice electronic turbo pressure controller that i will use. now given the engine is a bit old i am not going to go over the top running pressure. i think the engine only runs 6PSI standard.. so i'll up it to about 12 psi. im not after huge gains, just enough to to keep up with modern traffic.

i also got my projector lenses through the post. look at that beam cut off..


ok.. how about the high beam...

pretty good...

now lets put the glass over the headlamp and switch it back to low beam...

oh dear.. the cut off is now just a blur and the ridge has just gone! plus look at all the glare it gives now! only one way to fix that..

next job is to grind smooth a small circular "window" in the middle of the BX's head lamp glass. i need to remove all of the ridges/fluting where the light from the projector lense sits. this may be a challenge..

nothing more to report.
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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #65
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Re: John Dragon Man's Citroen BX Diesel Estate

If you see any bx lights grab them.. seen countless people break the glass trying that but its doable. Defo go slow and be gentle, let the tools do the work and notnyour weight etc etc.
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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #66
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Re: John Dragon Man's Citroen BX Diesel Estate

yeah i will do..

--------------------

Gahh I've been trolled.

because i was cranking the engine over and messing with the injection pump i did not notice this.



its the oil feed for the vacuum pump. so yep you guessed it.. i have lost all of my oil. i didnt notice it while i was priming the injectors. damn thats 30 gone just like that.
its also a pain that its not a threaded hole. i tried sticking the original engines plug in it, but the thread is way too big. i'd have to drill the hole out bigger. the thread on the plug seems like its an M10, but it has the diameter of an M12. so all i am going to do is put an M10 bolt in the hole with a copper washer. the plug can go back in the original engine. ill start building that back up when the car is done.

ahh every job i do is one job less.. its what i keep telling myself.
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Old 2 Hours Ago   #67
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Re: John Dragon Man's Citroen BX Diesel Estate

long time no post guys,

well looking back at what i last posted i can say now that the oil feed for the vacuum pump has been tapped and bolted using a copper washer as the seal.

the turbo is now fully bolted to the engine along with the intake manifold.

oh and a small side note.. nothing really of importance.. not really worth mentioning really..

but...



it runs..


yeah the engine actually started and ran for a short time. till the wires on the battery wiggled off. i was pretty impressed to say the least!

i have here a bad quality video from my chinese phone capturing the moment.. dont worry it is diesel in the barrel!



after i got it running on the pallet i decided to swing it into the car.. (using an engine crane that came in for scrap.. i just had to replace the handle pump seals.. 2 min job! )





this camera makes it look bad, but the colour of it actually looks pretty good in the bay.

this is pretty tight down here for all the pipes..


hang on.. lets have a closer look at that..




hmm that turbo outlet is way too close to that heater matrix pipe connection.. if i spin it around it should be good..



much better, now the turbo outlet is lower down.. ill just have to make a longer pipe to compensate that, should be ok.

i have got 3 coolant pipes to try and re-route, the one from the back of the block to the heater matrix, and the one from the heater matrix to the cylinder head.

the turbo vane actuator is a bit close to the bulk head but i think i can make it so it wont hit it by spacing the rubber bump stop on the engine mount out. i have not got the bottom engine mount tightened up yet, but that does hold the engine pretty steady its a good job i changed them all really as it holds the engine pretty firm in place.

ill have to work on maybe a heat shield, i may get away with just cutting out a square in the sound proofing then maybe pop riveting with a few washers (to make an air gap behind it) a thin sheet of aluminium plate where the turbo is.. we will see, it may be OK with just the sound proofing cut away., there's nothing really stopping me from adding it to the inside of the car.

for the engine i have decided to go with 0w/40 fully synthetic oil designed or turbo diesel vehicles without DPF's or Cat converters. of all modern oils it had the highest ZDDP content which is the main anti ware element of an engine oil (its something that is reduced a lot in modern oils as it poisons the cat converter and DPF). the fact it stays "runny" at cold temperatures means that it will help cold starting and means that the oil will get to where it needs to be a lot faster. i know these XUD engines like to leak oil (and thats running mineral oil!) me using fully synth oil maybe a bad idea in terms of leaking as with fully synth having a smaller molecular structure it will find those gaps in seals and leak by.. but with me changing the seals, i hope that wont be the case! time will tell. nothing like self applying rust proofing anyway.


i still have not done any work on the head lamp glasses.. i have all the bits now to do it but yeah.. i really dont want to break the glass. slow and steady wins the race with it i guess.

drive shafts can go in soon then gearbox oil.. i actually need to get a drive shaft for the passenger side.. i could rebuild my old one but meh i have the cash to get a new one..

next jobs will be the wiring... boy does it look fun on this!

thats all for now,
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