Hi Bernie
Ok that makes sense, will get the glow plug replaced over the next few days and let you know. Thanks for all your help!
Technical Glow plugs/ Relay
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Technical Glow plugs/ Relay
Hi Bernie
Ok that makes sense, will get the glow plug replaced over the next few days and let you know. Thanks for all your help!
jessnat995
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Did you have any joy with removing the plugs ?
I'm building my self up to change mine.
My light comes on for around 30 seconds when starting then goes off
I'm building my self up to change mine.
My light comes on for around 30 seconds when starting then goes off
Busy with exams at the moment, so don't have the time right now. Will post once I've had it replaced.
Hi guys
Just an update, got the plug replaced and the glow plug warning light has gone. however it still takes about two attempts to start, has a cloud of white smoke when it does start and the preheating light still does illuminate to show preheating is occuring, i still wait to hear the relay click (after 8 seconds) to know when to start.
also like before, once the car is warm it starts right up and there is no cloud of smoke.
Just an update, got the plug replaced and the glow plug warning light has gone. however it still takes about two attempts to start, has a cloud of white smoke when it does start and the preheating light still does illuminate to show preheating is occuring, i still wait to hear the relay click (after 8 seconds) to know when to start.
also like before, once the car is warm it starts right up and there is no cloud of smoke.
Bernievarian
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Hi Nelson,
thanks for the update and glad your light is not showing anymore !
Have you tryed the two in a row preheat method ? White smoke at start is the sign of unburned fuel, so either the preheat doesn't work, is not lasting enough or the engine itself doesn't reach the final compression (and auto-ignit temperature) it was originally design for... Give it two preheats and try starting it...
BRs, Bernie
If someone here helped You fix -or better- understand your issue, hit the thanks icon @ bottom right corner, it's free and makes us feel helpy ;-)
thanks for the update and glad your light is not showing anymore !
Have you tryed the two in a row preheat method ? White smoke at start is the sign of unburned fuel, so either the preheat doesn't work, is not lasting enough or the engine itself doesn't reach the final compression (and auto-ignit temperature) it was originally design for... Give it two preheats and try starting it...
BRs, Bernie
If someone here helped You fix -or better- understand your issue, hit the thanks icon @ bottom right corner, it's free and makes us feel helpy ;-)
Bernievarian
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Hi Nelson,
seems that kind of confirm a low compression level, the only way to be sure would be to get a compression check done :-( Worth it ? IMO, no ! What would you do if test shows low compression on one or two (or all) cylinders ? Rebuild the engine ? That can be quite costly !
Does the dash preheating light sometimes show up or never ? It could be bad , I'm not sure if it's checked by the ECU ...
I remember in the past, during cold winters we helped starting earth moving equipments by burning newspapers or straw torch near airfilter mouth so the engine could swallow warmed air: worked a treat !! You could do similar with a heatgun or even an hairdryer... (for test purpose ;-)
BRs, Bernie
seems that kind of confirm a low compression level, the only way to be sure would be to get a compression check done :-( Worth it ? IMO, no ! What would you do if test shows low compression on one or two (or all) cylinders ? Rebuild the engine ? That can be quite costly !
Does the dash preheating light sometimes show up or never ? It could be bad , I'm not sure if it's checked by the ECU ...
I remember in the past, during cold winters we helped starting earth moving equipments by burning newspapers or straw torch near airfilter mouth so the engine could swallow warmed air: worked a treat !! You could do similar with a heatgun or even an hairdryer... (for test purpose ;-)
BRs, Bernie
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Hi Bernie
It would be worth it if it causes more harm the good by not getting it sorted out.. can it get worse by not sorting it out?
The dash preheating light comes on for as long as the 'water in the diesel filter light' comes on, which is for a second or two when the ignition is turned on but then they both go off?
Hahaha very intuitive there Bernie, but the two preheat method is working fine.. was a cold morning today and started up fine, didn't pay attention to any smoke cause I was in a rush but my biggest concern now is if it'll get worse if it is a low compression issue?
Also a service is due, it's been almost 20 000km without a service
It would be worth it if it causes more harm the good by not getting it sorted out.. can it get worse by not sorting it out?
The dash preheating light comes on for as long as the 'water in the diesel filter light' comes on, which is for a second or two when the ignition is turned on but then they both go off?
Hahaha very intuitive there Bernie, but the two preheat method is working fine.. was a cold morning today and started up fine, didn't pay attention to any smoke cause I was in a rush but my biggest concern now is if it'll get worse if it is a low compression issue?
Also a service is due, it's been almost 20 000km without a service
Bernievarian
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Hi Nelson,
there are three main reasons for low compression in an engine:
- engine worn: gases past between cylinder and piston; need HUGE overhaul
- bad valve(s): bent/leaking; need head off and repair
- head gasket: communication open between two adjacent cylinder; same as above
Only the first one will get worse slowly, the two other can go bad very fast ...
A good mechanic should be able to tell you from a compression test what's going up in your engine, dry vs wet test etc.
BRs, Berrnie
there are three main reasons for low compression in an engine:
- engine worn: gases past between cylinder and piston; need HUGE overhaul
- bad valve(s): bent/leaking; need head off and repair
- head gasket: communication open between two adjacent cylinder; same as above
Only the first one will get worse slowly, the two other can go bad very fast ...
A good mechanic should be able to tell you from a compression test what's going up in your engine, dry vs wet test etc.
BRs, Berrnie
Im guessing head gasket just went, coolant just drains (not onto the floor), steam came from engine bay when i saw engine temp shoot past half way, and engine oil level is really high!!! also changed the head gasket about a year ago...
Am I wrong?
Am I wrong?
Bernievarian
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Hi Nelson,
that doesn't sound good, coolant went to the sump, as it's heavier than oil, you just see oil on the stick, but the pump will suck water to the circuit, which is not so much lubricating: this can lead to fatal dammage to the engine ...
BRs, Bernie
that doesn't sound good, coolant went to the sump, as it's heavier than oil, you just see oil on the stick, but the pump will suck water to the circuit, which is not so much lubricating: this can lead to fatal dammage to the engine ...
BRs, Bernie
Thanks Bernie
Figured as much, stopped as soon as I noticed the engine temp spiked up (to about 3 quarters), so hopefully it's just the gasket that needs replacing.. I think that was what was also causing the compression problem.. also Bernie how can you tell if the water pump is working? Car never overheated before?
Figured as much, stopped as soon as I noticed the engine temp spiked up (to about 3 quarters), so hopefully it's just the gasket that needs replacing.. I think that was what was also causing the compression problem.. also Bernie how can you tell if the water pump is working? Car never overheated before?
