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Technical Electrics Questions 244 2.8JTD

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Technical Electrics Questions 244 2.8JTD

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earl34

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Re: 2004 244 2.8JTD

I've transplanted the engine and all the electrics associated with the ECU and the main fuse box together, never been disconnected.
Before i proceed can anyone tell me the minimum required to start and run the engine?
Is there anything outside of the engine management that if missing or disconnected will prevent the engine from running?
For example, what is required to allow the fuel lifter pump to work?
Does the inertia switch need to be connected for the engine to run?
I already have the ignition/immobiliser connected.

Thanks for any help.
 
Last edited:
earl34 said:
Re: 2004 244 2.8JTD

I've transplanted the engine and all the electrics associated with the ECU and the main fuse box together, never been disconnected.
Before i proceed can anyone tell me the minimum required to start and run the engine?
Is there anything outside of the engine management that if missing or disconnected will prevent the engine from running?
For example, what is required to allow the fuel lifter pump to work?
Does the inertia switch need to be connected for the engine to run?
I already have the ignition/immobiliser connected.

Thanks for any help.
Click to expand...
Inertia switch grounds the lift pump. What are you transplanting into? Youll probably have a DTC if you don't connect a digital speedo sender.
 
ecunotemu said:
Inertia switch grounds the lift pump. What are you transplanting into? Youll probably have a DTC if you don't connect a digital speedo sender.
Click to expand...

Thanks for your reply.
So the inertia switch has to be fitted.
Transplanted Into a Peugeot J5.
I'm guessing that the Speedo sender is part of the ABS? That's one part i haven't been able to swap over.
Would that DTC prevent the engine from starting?

I've also used the Ducato pedal box.
 
earl34 said:
Thanks for your reply.
So the inertia switch has to be fitted.
Transplanted Into a Peugeot J5.
I'm guessing that the Speedo sender is part of the ABS? That's one part i haven't been able to swap over.
Would that DTC prevent the engine from starting?

I've also used the Ducato pedal box.
Click to expand...
Inertia switch is to prevent the lift pump dispensing all the diesel in an accident so yeah I'd fit it. The speedo sender on the donir vehicle gearbox has an electronic output for jtd it won't stop it starting its just the eml may be on all the time which is annoying as you won't know when there another issue.

Well done by the way what engine was in it? Did you use the original box and an adapter plate did you have to weld and balance driveshafts
 
Last edited:
ecunotemu said:
Inertia switch is to prevent the lift pump dispensing all the diesel in an accident so yeah I'd fit it. The speedo sender on the donor vehicle gearbox has an electronic output for jtd it won't stop it starting its just the eml may be on all the time which is annoying as you won't know when there another issue.

Well done by the way what engine was in it? Did you use the original box and an adapter plate did you have to weld and balance drive shafts
Click to expand...

Understood. If the speedo sender is mounted on the gearbox, it should still be there. It's probably wired into the ECU loom so i wouldn't have noticed it.

It had a 2.5D engine/box.
I used the Ducato engine/box and everything else that i could to make the transplant as complete as possible.
As both engines are Sofim/Iveco they have a lot of similarity but enough differences to make tricky.
I had the drive shafts professionally modified.

The Ducato's electrics have worked out quite well as there are separate looms for the engine management and the ignition. The cab electrics are separate as well but i don't need those.
It's just not knowing what i need to connect to make sure the engine will run.
There's power at the starter from the ignition so the engine should turn over.
 
earl34 said:
Understood. If the speedo sender is mounted on the gearbox, it should still be there. It's probably wired into the ECU loom so i wouldn't have noticed it.

It had a 2.5D engine/box.
I used the Ducato engine/box and everything else that i could to make the transplant as complete as possible.
As both engines are Sofim/Iveco they have a lot of similarity but enough differences to make tricky.
I had the drive shafts professionally modified.

The Ducato's electrics have worked out quite well as there are separate looms for the engine management and the ignition. The cab electrics are separate as well but i don't need those.
It's just not knowing what i need to connect to make sure the engine will run.
There's power at the starter from the ignition so the engine should turn over.
Click to expand...

Have you got the instruments so you can see the immobiliser light etc. or an elm cable so you can check codes with multiecuscan?

Did you use the whole tank / diesel circuit from the newer van too, theres a cooling loop for the diesel, lift pump and the filter housing has sensors in it.
 
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ecunotemu said:
Have you got the instruments so you can see the immobiliser light etc. or an elm cable so you can check codes with multiecuscan?
Click to expand...
Might have mislead you, the engine does turn over with the key but i haven't tried to start it as i'm waiting for a rad hose.
No instruments or diagnostic point. Although i could rig them up temporarily if there is a problem.
I have a couple of Durite gauges, oil pressure and water temp. Not a lot of good right now!
Yes, i used the whole fuel system.
When i had the Ducato on the road you could hear the fuel pump running prior to starting, i don't hear that now. The fuel tank is empty could that be why?
 
Last edited:
earl34 said:
Might have mislead you, the engine does turn over with the key but i haven't tried to start it as i'm waiting for a rad hose.
No instruments or diagnostic point. Although i could rig them up temporarily if there is a problem.
I have a couple of Durite gauges, oil pressure and water temp. Not a lot of good right now!
Yes, i used the whole fuel system.
When i had the Ducato on the road you could hear the fuel pump running prior to starting, i don't hear that now. The fuel tank is empty could that be why?
Click to expand...

It won't run without ground from the inertia switch. I would definitely hook up a diagnostics port or hardwire in a bluetooth one they're less than a tenner without that a loose connector could have you chasing your tail.
 
ecunotemu said:
It won't run without ground from the inertia switch. I would definitely hook up a diagnostics port or hardwire in a bluetooth one they're less than a tenner without that a loose connector could have you chasing your tail.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the advice. I've not seen a bluetooth one but i'll take a look around.
(y)
 
I've connected and mounted the inertia switch and the fuel pump now runs from the key. The diagnostics show two faults, P0704 Clutch Signal and P1555 Accelerator/Brake Coherency. Neither of these are connected at the moment so it's to be expected.
Thanks again ecunotemu.
 
Super I'm excited on your behalf :) Are you going to shoehorn in the newer cluster too.
 
ecunotemu said:
Super I'm excited on your behalf :) Are you going to shoehorn in the newer cluster too.
Click to expand...
I'm concentrating on getting the engine to start but I did consider it early on. However, it would be more work than i am prepared to or capable of doing.

The lights, heater, wipers/washers etc. are all Peugeot. I've kept them separate from the Ducato wiring.
I will add a rev counter, when i work out how to do that on a diesel, to the oil pressure and water temp gauges and a low fuel warning light that i need to identify the wiring from the Ducato.
 
As a follow up, i fired up the engine and it's running fine.
I wired up the Peugeot fuel gauge, oil light, hydraulic light to the Ducato senders and all work OK so i can use the Peugeot console.
I removed the Peugeot ignition, starter relays etc.
There are now two keys! The Peugeot key operates all the dash controls. The Ducato key is under the dash and controls the ignition, ECU, senders.
I need to separate out the diagnostic wiring from the instrument loom as this is not very portable at the moment.
(y)
 
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Struggling to get the diagnostics to work.
The power light on the Bluetooth ELM327 interface will not light.
Checking the voltage at the port i have 9.9 volts.
Anyone know what it should be?
 
ecunotemu said:
12v/battery voltage on pin16 ground pin 4 and 5
Click to expand...

Just to be clear, is this correct?
obd2_zps39qvahgh.jpg
 
OK, now have 12v and Bluetooth unit powered up.
obd3_zpsuvt9z2gn.jpg


The multi point connector from the engine bay/ecu loom that would normally be behind the dash. D001A.
connector2_zpscglltgmo.jpg


Here is the diagnostic port with Bluetooth unit connected. R010.
obd4_zpskez2bd9f.jpg


My reading of the wiring diagram is that the white/yellow wire, pin 7, connects to C4 on D001A and is the only wire that connects to the ECU.

I'm using AlfaOBD software to connect to the ECU. I can connect to the Bluetooth unit but get an BUS INIT... ERROR message when i try to read/connect to the Engine/ECU.
I did inadvertently cut through the white/yellow wire and made a soldered repair. Could this be an issue?
Does anyone know the required wiring to allow the Bluetooth Unit to read the Engine option on AlfaOBD?

Any advice greatly appreciated.
 
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