Cambelt change problems on Fiat Ducato 2.8 idtd, x230, 8140.43 engine,
2001 reg probably on 1999-2000 chassis.
Had cambelt changed at garage. Starts, drives and pulls OK. No smoke. Just sounds different to pre-change. Hard to describe but burbbles under rev rather than a crisp enging note. We all know how our vans sound......I may be a little paranoid but a belt failure mid-France scares me. The garage say it must be OK as they pinned the pulleys.
Want to check visually the timing myself so covers off, crankshaft pulley will come off, after removing alternator belt (slacken tensioner....well hidden, any tips?). Then turn engine clockwise, timing marks 12 o'clock on Camshaft, 3 o'clock crankshaft. Correct? Pin hole on pump also should line up.
Problem is my camshaft pulley has TWO notches on it. One very large, the other smaller and as I would expect. Can anyone advise which is correct? See pics. Any other tips greatly appreciated.

I would think that it would not run if the wrong mark used it would be about 6 or 7 teeth out. I found this on another forum, dont know if it helps......Mike

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I've changed one on a Fiat Ducato 2.8 non turbo (my last vehicle) and a few Iveco Daily 2.8 turbo almost the same.
I would use a kit with tensioner and idler pulleys
do check belt think there is one tooth differance between turbo /non-turbo

Looked in the layby up the road but couldn't see you!

So here goes

remove
r/h front wheel
r/h innner wing panel
engine undershield
auxiliary drive belt
water pump pulley
oil filler cap
engine top cover
timing belt upper cover

slacken crankshaft pulley bolt
turn crankshaft to TDC on number one cylinder
ensure timing marks aligned
( marks at 3 o'clock on pulley)
ensure camshaft timing marks aligned
(mark rear of pulley and engine top cover)
insert locking pin in injector pump pulley
(you can use a drill for this )
insert 8mm timing pin in flywheel
(about 11 o'clock on bell housing)
(may need some thing longer that a drill for this ie; silver steel)

remove
crankshaft pulley bolt and pulley
timing belt lower cover

ensure crankshaft sprocket timing mark aligned at 6 o'clock position

slacken tensioner nuts
lever tensioner pulley away from belt and fit tensioner locking tool
(you can use an open ended spanner or cut a slot into nut for this)

remove timing belt

If changing tensioner and idler pulleys change now and refit tensioner locking tool

ensure all timing marks aligned and pins located correctly

fit timing belt starting at crankshaft ensure belt is taut on non-tensioned
side

remove tensioner locking tool
remove flywheel timing pin
remove injection pump locking pin

turn crankshaft two turns CLOCKWISE

insert timing pin in flywheel
ensure timing marks aligned
ensure injection pump locking pin can be inserted

tighten tensioner main nut to 40Nm and the other to 25Nm

remove locking pins from injector pump and flywheel

check belts tight

install components in reverse order of removal

tighten crankshaft pulley bolt to 200Nm

I think its taken me longer to type this than to fit the belt!

Hope it helps

Thanks Mike

Slight update. Consensus seems to be timing is probably OK as van starts and drives well. Got underneath, turned crank, lined up camshaft timing mark, checked fuel pump timing hole lined up. It did, put a 5mm drill straight through into locking hole, exactly. So, 2 out of the 3 marks line up. I now think the probability is that all is ok, despite my thoughts that engine sounds different. Maybe old belt was a little slack. Have a 36mm socket coming tomorrow for the crankshaft pulley bolt....but may now accept it is ok without disturbing all that.