Technical egr blanking off
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Technical egr blanking off
just fitted mine today not too bad to fit all the bolts came out
if I fitted the 2 gaskets I could not got the egr back to fit the bolts
so just fitted the plate no gaskets
it runs ok but not road tested it my next run will be to Scotland so we will see
if I fitted the 2 gaskets I could not got the egr back to fit the bolts
so just fitted the plate no gaskets
it runs ok but not road tested it my next run will be to Scotland so we will see
I have had some experience with deleting the egr function on a 2.7litre Benz diesel. It required an electronic shunt to fool the ecu or it went into limp mode. Once installed, the egr no longer worked (opened) which was the desired effect. However, I note you are saying that a blanking plate is necessary here. If the egr is prevented from working (opening) by this electronic fitting, why would it be necessary to block off the exhaust? Could not the vacuum tube be blocked as an extra precaution? Would be much easier if the hardware didn't have to be touched as in the Benz.
Having experienced the benefits with the Benz, I sure want to do the same with the Ducato 3.0 litre in my motorhome.
As an aside, the egr function can be deleted by remapping the ecu so if anyone is contemplating a remap, get that done as an extra.
CDK
Member
You are correct. In the Ducato (with a working EGR valve) blocking the vacuum line is enough. There is no feedback, so no error codes.
Yesterday I replaced the MAP sensor causing the P0235 code. That was a bitch, the sensor head snapped and fell in the manifold, so I had to remove the whole throttle valve unit to recover it with a piece of wire bent in a sling. The manifold -cleaned last year- again had a thick layer of oily soot. Some Fiat fundamentalist who replaced the timing belt last summer also replaced my blocked vacuum line without asking.
This time I removed the complete hose and pressed a cap on the electric vacuum valve.
Yesterday I replaced the MAP sensor causing the P0235 code. That was a bitch, the sensor head snapped and fell in the manifold, so I had to remove the whole throttle valve unit to recover it with a piece of wire bent in a sling. The manifold -cleaned last year- again had a thick layer of oily soot. Some Fiat fundamentalist who replaced the timing belt last summer also replaced my blocked vacuum line without asking.
This time I removed the complete hose and pressed a cap on the electric vacuum valve.
This may not work on later motors. The engineers are getting smarter and making it harder to fool the system. Mine is a 2013 180 motor and I suspect I will need to use an electronic shunt to fix the issue or I'll run in to limp mode.
My comment was really about doing the electronic shunt and then blanking off the exhaust - couldn't see much point in that.
Techno100
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I bought a kit for the 3.0 litre and followed the instructions, simples. If anyone wants to short cut that feel free. Let us know how you get on. Mine is running trouble free.
http://galeria.123.opole.pl/manuals/emu_egr_06_en_dig-3.0.pdf
I would seek advice from the seller
http://galeria.123.opole.pl/manuals/emu_egr_06_en_dig-3.0.pdf
I would seek advice from the seller
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Have written to seller asking about necessity for blanking plate. See what he says. The writeup link you sent (which I am not allowed to copy) makes me think it is unnecessary. When I did a similar electronic shunt on my Benz diesel, it wasn't necessary to blank it off. Looks like a very similar method otherwise except the Benz one was cobbled together for about $2.00
As promised, I contacted the seller. He advised that the plate is only required to cover the possibility of the egr valve being jammed slightly open as can happen.
On this basis, if one ensures it is properly closed - give it a tap with a hammer!! - then all that extra work is unnecessary. Once the electronic system is installed, the valve will never open again.
Installation of the shunt would be a quick job without having to dismantle hardware. I'm looking for cheaper alternatives but may have to pay this rather exorbitant price if I can't locate one.
Ian.
On this basis, if one ensures it is properly closed - give it a tap with a hammer!! - then all that extra work is unnecessary. Once the electronic system is installed, the valve will never open again.
Installation of the shunt would be a quick job without having to dismantle hardware. I'm looking for cheaper alternatives but may have to pay this rather exorbitant price if I can't locate one.
Ian.
You'd easily lose the price of the unit in diesel over a couple of tanks with a crappy diode/resistor mod. Plus factor in your time, connectors, components, enclosure, sealing.
You may be right but my experience making and fitting a similar mod to a Benz diesel would say not. That mod has now been used by hundreds of forum members since we first advised the mod on the forum about 3 years ago and everyone has found it to be great. It is one of the most popular mods done to Benz diesels now. Cost about $2 worth of parts and an hour of your time. Rather than using more fuel, it actually saves some in town driving conditions. No change on highway.
If you wish, check out this thread to see what I am talking about. It is a huge thread
http://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/showthread.php?t=68928
Those vehicles have a voltage output MAF and very basic single egr map.
Multijet ecus use a duty cycle maf and multiple egr maps.
At a minimum you're going to need a microcontroller and code to read the pwm signal from the maf, read either rms voltage or pwm from the egr then calculate or more lightly use a lookup table to generate the required pwm output signal and where are you going to get those values. You could dump your ecu contents, find the maps, extract the values then using an oscilloscope work out the duty cycle correlation to air mass. Then spend hours calculating, building, coding, testing.
Or you could pay someone thats already done that and get on with your life. Or put the money towards a remap where the egr has been disabled or better still map out the egr and dpf and sell your dpf to cover the cost.
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Thanks for that. That was the info I have been looking for. The later Benz's have that type of egr setup too.
You are right on the button with your suggestion re mapping out the egr and perhaps the dpf too. I can't find anyone in my locale to do that at a reasonable price. Contacted GAD tuning in England but they aren't being too helpful at this stage. I'll have to keep looking. Seems the ecu has to be removed from the vehicle to have the mapping changed on this model.
May finish up doing that. Just need to see what a remap would cost as it would provide extra benefits. Obviously be dearer but need to know how much before deciding.
I fitted the egr kit at £49 and a bluespark chip at £80 my ducato goes like stink and pulls like a train and better mpg mine is the 160 3.0l tag axle 5ton just been to Scotland most of the hills you just drop to 5th gear + I tow a car on an aframe
I've just ordered the egr kit. Seems the best option. Is your bluespark chip a separate add-on box or a remap? Seems cheap for a remap.
Is your unit a manual or automated manual? Are you concerned that the extra power could affect the dual mass flywheel which seem to be a weakness with these things.
