Technical DPF clogged, regen failed maybe?

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Technical DPF clogged, regen failed maybe?

Pulling the file myself but I have help to modify it, I do 2nd/3rd level support (I'm a VW Audi/diesel/turbo specialist) and generally work around master tech level but programming is not something I have delved into, so I can explain in detail what I want and pull the ecu flash but will have someone help me alter it. I'll probably take a look at what they did on the map and check the operation with diag software obviously, but that's about it. I want the EGR disabled over 70c (but left stock below that for warm up & cold start/run mpg reasons, most people do not realise an egr/egr cooler is also an engine heater and quite necessary for a fast warm up on a modern diesel) and the DPF mapping out completely. Swirl flaps mapped out completely too if I can find them, but the actuator does no real harm sitting there and it's a 'dumb' manifold so I have already disabled them. Later on can come some more agressive tuning, after injectors and the other turbo. Meantime some better efficiency and 250/260hp should have it running better.
 
When you dissabled/disconnected your swirl valves I assume? that all you did was disconnect the ball joint and arm linkage that goes to the bottom of number 3 swirl valve?

I'm also guessing that you had to do this from underneath the car as I found it impossibel to get over the top of the engine to the actuator due to the big overhang the inlet manifold has and the closeness of the actuator to the back of the block?

Also how do you hold the swirl valves in the open position? The actuator spring return would normally do that. Are are the stiff enough to just rest in the open position and not move over time with engine vibration?

Finally you say yuo find the car more responsive at low RPM with the swirl valves open. This sounds contrary to their original design purpose. Maybe this is why the MkII Cromas don't appear to have swirl valves.
 
No I did it from above, disconnected the ball joint on the electric actuator you can just see it/get a pry bar in carefully. I then pushed all the swirl flaps hard open (even when the bar is across, there is some small movement on each one) and tie wrapped the bar to a waterway metal union near the cambelt end in the middle of the head, basically they are tied in the fully open position.

As for their use, I'm not sure, they do increase swirl but they decrease flow and reduce air, they also increase pumping losses which reduces efficiency. some cars have them one year and not the next, so the difference cannot be a massive one. I really do not know the answer to this. What I can say is:

The engine sounds a ton better, if you close the flaps the car sounds naily and knocks more you can feel that the combustion is not being cushioned by sufficient air and the shock waves are hitting the cylinder more, it revs up better and cleaner without sounding rough and it's noticably quicker off the mark. Also it's smoother and quieter, finally the turbo used to whistle hard and make a bit of a squall when lifting off the throttle, now it's much quieter - this happens because the turbo can flow more air and isn't having to force the air against a brick wall of half the passage ways closed basically, it sounds/feels/runs a lot happier.

The ONLY thing I can say is I do not know if it would affect soot and/or dppf clogging, but it certainly runs better. As my dpf will soon be for the bin I don't care.

On the basis of the experiment, I'd like to remove the manifold, clean the gunk of the egr out, take the flaps fully out and core plug the spindle holes. This will eliminate any chance of a flap breaking into the engine and it will also flow better as it won't have flaps (albeit open) stuck in the middle of a small passageway.



Greg.

When you dissabled/disconnected your swirl valves I assume? that all you did was disconnect the ball joint and arm linkage that goes to the bottom of number 3 swirl valve?

I'm also guessing that you had to do this from underneath the car as I found it impossibel to get over the top of the engine to the actuator due to the big overhang the inlet manifold has and the closeness of the actuator to the back of the block?

Also how do you hold the swirl valves in the open position? The actuator spring return would normally do that. Are are the stiff enough to just rest in the open position and not move over time with engine vibration?

Finally you say yuo find the car more responsive at low RPM with the swirl valves open. This sounds contrary to their original design purpose. Maybe this is why the MkII Cromas don't appear to have swirl valves.
 
Pulling the file myself but I have help to modify it, I do 2nd/3rd level support (I'm a VW Audi/diesel/turbo specialist) and generally work around master tech level but programming is not something I have delved into, so I can explain in detail what I want and pull the ecu flash but will have someone help me alter it. I'll probably take a look at what they did on the map and check the operation with diag software obviously, but that's about it. I want the EGR disabled over 70c (but left stock below that for warm up & cold start/run mpg reasons, most people do not realise an egr/egr cooler is also an engine heater and quite necessary for a fast warm up on a modern diesel) and the DPF mapping out completely. Swirl flaps mapped out completely too if I can find them, but the actuator does no real harm sitting there and it's a 'dumb' manifold so I have already disabled them. Later on can come some more agressive tuning, after injectors and the other turbo. Meantime some better efficiency and 250/260hp should have it running better.

sounds very interesting, where abouts do you live, do you ever get to any forum meets?
 
check engine light is back, only had hand held scanner with me when i was out, it gave a different code P2002 dpf below threshold bank 1 :confused: i cleared it twice when out.

got home and fes/mes was still giving same code as before blocked dpf. but in the live data bit its still saying dpf status not clogged. ive removed and tried to clean differential sensor now, dont know if that has anything to do with it......to be continued........
 
Sounds like you'd be a lot better off with the thing mapped out and gutted. I'm in Nottingham and not adversed to meet up's at all, though I get pretty busy due to doing this for a living (rarely on Fiats though). If I can get mine to run so I'm happy with it, I can share/do the same setup on others.
 
No I did it from above, disconnected the ball joint on the electric actuator you can just see it/get a pry bar in carefully. I then pushed all the swirl flaps hard open (even when the bar is across, there is some small movement on each one) and tie wrapped the bar to a waterway metal union near the cambelt end in the middle of the head, basically they are tied in the fully open position.
Greg.

Thanks for the response Greg

(Joking) Are you an Octopus by any chance and have eyes on stalks?

I spent some ten minutes with lamps and mirrors trying to see the actuator and linkage and failed. I must be getting too old, too inflexible and failing eyesight.

Regarding the valves are there mechanical stops at the fully open and closed positions? Is is possible to over rotate the 90 degree open mark and move from a fully open valve position into a reduced opening position?
 
What make is your handheld scanner? More importantly does is allow specific selection of the Croma & Version?

It could be that your handheld scanner is reading P1206 and translating to P2002 as the nearest match to Fiats P1206.

OBD PXXX codes are manufacturer defined so P1206 on a Fiat may be different to a that of a Ford, etc.

P codes below 1000 should be generic OBD codes.

A simple good guide can be found here: http://www.nology.com/OBD2FaultCodes.htm
 
waited till it was dark and local test track was empty, left my house got a little way down the road light comes back on, got to test track and was able to go over 80 mph 3k revs this time, so i did and got car nice and hot, on the way back I stopped in a layby and it finally let me do a forced regen.

during
1.JPG

at the end
2.JPG

a graph i did on way home, just to see if anyone can spot any thing wrong?

3.JPG

warning light stayed off on way home,
 
Hi just seen the post sorry for the delay I sell DPF cleaner at work and they recommend putting it in when the DPF is hot as when the soot content cools it sets like concrete making it harder to remove
Then leave it to soak for min 1 hour then take car for 20 min drive in 4 or 5 depending on 5 or 6 speed box at about 2500-3000 rpm
Also the DPF is like a one way valve so make sure you put the cleaner in the right end

I have diag machine if you need
 
Going back to page 1 your DPF was at 79% blocked and now down to 70%
My machine won't do a re-gen if above 80% due to fire risk is your re-gen forced or manual

i just forced it, mine wouldn't do a forced before only tonight it worked after filling dpf with brick cleaner.

its best to read the whole thread to see whats been going on.

car came back from bodyshop after being there a month with a bit of paper in the car with blocked dpf fault code written on it, i think they just deleted it so dpf continued to block after the car was returned to me, giving all this trouble :idea:
 
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