no message ive seen saying it has, just looking through old threads and i found out i last changed oil at 88k miles in july last year using the proper oem stuff

Is it the case that the `oil degradation level’ is a positive outcome - i.e. an 95% reading indicates a 5% degrade?

120909

Could be, but a reset ought to show which way round the readings are.

fes/mes says on the screen that 100% oil thing is the start and then it counts down, but i reset it anyway, still didnt work.
drove up and down the A12 A120 for about an hour, car wont go above 3000k revs 80mph in limp mode, only managed to get temp up to 450 but when i stop that drops to 300, so still failed

Coming in late as I've been away.

I think you said that you had a temperature sensor replaced?

The early Croma DPF filters had TWO temeprature sensors if I remember correctly. One before the DPF box (or at front of) and one at rear of DPF box.

It is rather odd that your forced regen did not get over 600degC.

As you say something is not right.

You could try jet washing the DPF box but I suspect the problem may reoccur.

Looks like something is stopping the proper/full regen from occuring. This could be due to the ECU thinking the DPF is "end of life" and needs replacing. In this case a good jet wash AND a MultiECUScan DPF replacement proceedure may solve the problem.

mines a later croma 2007 on a 56 plate, jet wash a good way to clean them then? i was going to pour petrol down it

Mine's a 56 plate as well. But reg plate means nothing. Production date is more important and that can be obtained from ePER and chassis number.

My 56 plated Croma was produced in Sept 2005. Fiat obviously had plenty of Cromas "in stock" that were shifted at much later dates.

i'll pm the vin

there is another sensor just before the pipe to dpf, is all dirty on the wire though, thats not been replaced.

finally got dpf off today, top nut on it was rusty rounded off, was easier to remove full exhaust in the end, no rear axle so no hassle.

dpf was very heavy' blocked so much when i poured a bit of petrol through it none came out

Good blow job probaly won't bring a smile back to the DPF then and a good fuel & jetwash will be required.

I've just been thinking a little about this and these are they.

1) we know removing/gutting the DPF will cause a fault code to be thrown as the the differential pressures will be wrong.

2) but what if??? one didn't gut the DPF but drilled one or more straight through holes. There would still be varying differential pressures so the ECU should not throw a wobbly.

3) if, and very big IF, one could get the hole drilling and balance correct the ECU may never do a regen and never complain.

To make this work we need some detailed tech info on what the mBar pressure ranges are programmed into the ECU. To determine by trial and error would probably drive one insane!

s130 said:

G
1) we know removing/gutting the DPF will cause a fault code to be thrown as the the differential pressures will be wrong.

Click to expand...

i didn't know this i was going to shove a scaffold pole with a point on the end down the middle

I think Dave on your car (being a later production model) you have just the ONE pressure feed coming off the DPF filter. I have two pipes that lead to a double input sensor.

In your case I'm not sure how the ECU measures the regen threshold. Probably an obsolute pressure value that starts from 0 when the ignition is turned on and rises onces the engine starts and increases as the RPM increases. Basically a differential over normmal air pressure as opposed to pressure across the DPF filter.

It could be that the scaffold pole thrust will work OK but also equally likely that the ECU will detect no rise in pressure.

You could test by pulling the pressure feed hose off the DPF and closing it off. With a little luck you may find that after many miles you still don't get a warning/error. If this is the case then you could leave it shut off and put that pole up your DPF

wont that sensor think dpf is blocked if it cant detect no presure?

loads of crap is coming out with jet wash, still feels very heavy, are new ones heavy?

all back together laptop plugged in, waiting for engine to warm up before i do reset for new dpf.

i must have forgotten some thing as its just started to rain, it normally rains when i am still laying on the floor

For those with the 2 pipe pressure differential DPFs, the road to enlightenment is via a remap.

Looks good so far Dave. Are DPFs supposed to be able to allow water through? I thought they were basically capped tubes where the exhaust gas had to permeate through the walls of the tubes to reach the atmosphere side of the DPF.

flow was very slow, was none at all at first, i did it from both ends for ages, eventually ended up with big pile of black stuff and clear water coming out, i put a kettle of hot water in each end about half way through the job too, that was strange was like coke and mints,
eventually no more black was coming out,
i jetted that pressure sensor feet tube too, lots of black come out of that, now i wondering does the sensor also need a clean?

2 studs got damaged when i ground off seized nuts, water was still coming out each end when i was messing about replacing studs. couldnt find my good mole grips so used vice to get one stud out, other i drilled and replaced with nut n bolt.

Interesting. I'm doing a DPF/Cat removal shortly on mine, swirl flaps are disabled and open (much more responsive at lower rpm//throttle and sounds a lot better) and the EGR will be set not to operate once the engine is warm. I will of course have to have a new exhaust, with one small box and two tailpipes....

Greg123 said:

Interesting. I'm doing a DPF/Cat removal shortly on mine, swirl flaps are disabled and open (much more responsive at lower rpm//throttle and sounds a lot better) and the EGR will be set not to operate once the engine is warm. I will of course have to have a new exhaust, with one small box and two tailpipes....

Click to expand...

doing the ecu changes yourself?