Hi been having a fair few probs with my cinq.... such as overheating, funny noise, lumpy idle...

The car was running ok.

After taking the radiator off and flushing it, the temp was o.k.
The noise from before i believe is the thrust bearing and is still there.

This morning i started the car and it sounded sooooo lumpy.
Driving it i can get maximum 40MPH really with no power at all
If i go up to 3k revs it makes a tiking noise.
Gettting very hot very quickly. 10mins to 100 degrees

After work today it didnt start first time for first time ever and really struggled.

Sounds like a harley.

Couple of friends said it was probably a blown valve. Dont have a compression tester.

Any help would be great as to fixing options if it is this or what else it could be?

more likely a blown head gasket than a burnt valve.

check the basics, like spark at each plug, condition of each plug. run from cold for a min or so, take all 4 plugs out quickly - are they all the same? Are two the same?

right ive just bought a compression tester and the results are:

1 - 14
2 - 14.8
3 - 0
4 - 0

So i think its just a hope its a head gasket ?

Wheres the best plae to get the sets from?

Dan

That's dreadfully low. Assuming that this is an 1108, I'd suspect dropped valves or holed pistons or a snapped camshaft. If an 899, tappet issues.

Pull the cam cover to see if you can spot anything. If 1108, pull the head.

I think where to buy a head gasket it the very last of your problems at the moment, but the usual places, FIAT, Fluffy, Shop4Parts.

all looks ok under the cover? youve scared me now.

its a 1242

All the valves seemed to go up and down fine. Used a feeler guage under camshaft and all seemed ok. Nothing out of the ordinary. How much oil should be there?

A fair bit. Can't see how you'd get zero compression, though. That's either an incredibly warped head or hole in piston.

As it's 2 adjacent cylinders, looks like the gasket (and head) have gone big style.

You do do the compression test with all the plugs out dont you.... Just checking

And WOT. But zero...........

Pull the head. Will need skimming.

sounds like when my headgasket went across the cylinders still ran for about 2 mins then had to get pulled home by aa man ....
pulled head off and there was about a 5 mm gap inbetween the 2 cylinders near cam side .. doh skim and head rebuild and all is fine .
Adz

did the compression tester break after testing no 2?

I'd imagine even with a hole in the piston or a broken valve, you'd get SOME comression.

Kristian

Not on a Fiat, but I've seen a snapped crankshaft give these results.

Lets hope it's the head, eh?

)

Winter Biker said:

Not on a Fiat, but I've seen a snapped crankshaft give these results.

Lets hope it's the head, eh?

Click to expand...

So have i (with a 200bhp NOS shot on a 2.0 twink with a broken regulator)and if it is that i will bare my arse at woolworths windows

yeah, must have been a serious casting flaw when the crank was made for it to have snapped, unless something seriously went wrong, or theres a massive charger hidden under the bonnet:yum:

considering the car drives, and the cylinders with no compression are next to the flywheel - i dobut its a snapped crank.

Nope. It litterally just happened when i started the car up in the morning. Its a punto 1242 apparently with a punto 75 cam. Although it really confuses me as the engine code is 176B4000, but was described when bought to have a punto 75 head and cam. The cam code is 176 but shouldnt it be 866? Its not MPi as Throttle body as normal.

Engine was a rebuild when fitted about 10k ago.

Just retested 3 and 4 and are still 0. You can hear the slightest air release when you press the button, but so slight its virtually nothing. The tester was bought at halfrauds, but not there own so should be ok.

Still starts though. not driving it any more until sunday when i take the head off.

Almost certainly not a P75 head, doesn't sound like a P75 cam, either.

Pull the head, let's see what's happening.

176.B4 is a post may 1997 P60, 1242 SPI engine. Mine had an 866 cam in it from factory, as did the other one i looked at.

Hey all. Taken it apart today and ive got a nice picture for you:



Doesnt seem to be any other damage done luckily. :worship:

The problem weve had is that the heating wasnt working as the resistor is dead so there must be a big airlock inside. We bridged the connections so that i can have the fan on setting 2, which has got most of the air out. Is there a good way to make sure its all bled perfectly as the bleed valves arnt brilliant. Dan

The resistor only works the fan motor. The heater cock is completely seperate and mechanical.

Skim the head!

Bleeding first from the bottom bleed screw, then from the top one. Squeeze those pipes!