Right....since i did the 1.4 I have had very high temps....may have been partly to do with the last fail. Now i have ported it and put some hot cams in, its even hotter.....saw 97 the other day, am not risking driving it until the temps are sorted.

I've had new water pumps, thermostats, radiator, coolant....so how can i make it better?

I have an oil cooler to try (arrives wed I hope) and drop the temps, but is ther eanything else apart form removing the stat or a bigger rad to aid cooling further?

Fans don't do anything at speed when i saw the temps....temp gauge is calibrated fine, and stat must be fully open by that point. I have tested the stat in a pan before i fitted it

Cheers,

Kristian

have you thought of fiting a larger alu radiator, or try some water/wetter, this stuff is suposed to keep temps down

The mpi rad is alu anyway and also bigger than spi....replacing it is a big plumbing job if i want to go even bifgger, and its only a couple of thousand miles old, if that...so i'm trying to aviod it.

I have heard of watter wetter...it may be worth a look....only ever heard of it form my pc cooling days.

I suppose i can remove the fogs, and plastic and mesh the front, like Sei Rory did...guess that may help a bit.

Cheers for the idea

Kristian

vents vents and more vents

Right...


Oil cooler
Watter wetter
Deristricting flow of air through rad and oil cooler
Maybe venting to draw more air over the rad

If its still hot...i'll give up lol


Krisitan

read any good aerodynamics book and they will tell you to concentrate on the REAR of the radiator. Virtually any car will get more than enough cool air from the front, adding vents won't necessarily cool the engine down. But if you can get rid of the warm air behind the rad then it will cool it. This could mean a vent in the bonnet to draw hot air out. Or a lot of cars have plastic ducting behind the rad to channel the air out. But both of those are pretty involved projects.

Personally, I'd put some water wetter in as a first attempt.

kritip said:

I have heard of watter wetter...it may be worth a look....only ever heard of it form my pc cooling days.

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aye, i heard of it and considered it for the same thing. i just used antifreeze in the end as it has the same sort of effect (increase heat capacity of the water).

are you sure the system is flowing properly, that weird multi-headed stat housing is doing its thing properly - i know ur engine is bigger, but surely it shouldnt be kicking out *that* much heat. even being very unsympathetic to my car it doesnt get that high, be it on the gauge, ECU readout or oil temperature.

what is AFR doing, because obviously a lean burn is going to be hotter!

I suspect something is very wrong as Emma's car doesn't seem to do anything untoward temperature (or other) wise.

But, it's all about managing airflow, rather than just trying to stuff more air in (where is it going to go?).

Duct the radiator (stuff like that blown nylon sheet they pack computers in would be ideal) to the bumper. Costs absolutely nowt.

Put an out vent in the bonnet (costs not a lot). I mean an out vent, facing backwards.

I've no idea if water wetters work. The above is old school, well tried, racing practice.

I was seeing 95's on ocassion before i swapped the cams and ported it...so it seems resonable that temps may have gone up a degree or two.

AFR's are in 12's at the speeds and load I was doing..i don't wanna risk going lean and have given up on my drive for economy lol

The pump was funky, but does look like some other similar pumps. It hasn't made much differnce tbh...and its certainly doing something to cool, else it'll be no wher enear that cool.

Watter Wetter and water looks the best combo, but they keep stressing race use. I guess its not AS anti corrosive as full blown anti freeze.....but evena 50/50 mix WITH water wetter seems to have some benefits.....I'll see if i can pick some up tomo.

I'm going to have to trial all these things one a to evaluate though....last thing i want to do is make it TOO cold lol


Cheers,

Kristian

As already stated
Add Water wetter thats a must
from my experience the car will warm up slightly quicker but will also cool down quicker but i only use 1liter of anti freez
check your a f r
im using the punto turbo diesel radiator think there is a picture of it in one of my threads
what you may need to check is the water capacity for the 1.4 engine in the other cars its in, they may have a larger capacity cooling system, iirc my cooling system capacity is 5liters now re-calibrate your wideband sensor and check afr and a heat shiel between manifold and radiator?

fingers99 said:

I suspect something is very wrong as Emma's car doesn't seem to do anything untoward temperature (or other) wise.
.

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I know hers runs fine...but what can i say?

I have tried all those new parts, have claibrated sensors many times, and have run an independat gauge..and i still see higher temps...

Mine is a bit more modified that hers i think with the cams...so maybe that has a little to do with it?

I have fully rebuild the engine now, top and bottom, with all additional parts swapped, and checked it all out...so I know theres nothing wrong there, in my eyes at least.

The 1.2 never seemed to have any problem...but its perhaps it's jsut the power im putting out (it is bloody quick now!!!!), generating a lot more heat.

Kristian

How much has the engine run in how many miles? Have you used over sized pistons etc which oil are you using?

I've read that over rich can cause knock (as well as the more obvious issues of bore wash). Wonder if something in the 13:1 (stoic is 14.7!) range might be better.

I would check the cooling system capacity of a Panda 100HP first and see if there's any major difference there.

I would have thought you would want to get the warm air out rather than ducting cool air in. Venting has been mentioned, you could wrap the manifold or ceramic coat it. You could also raise the rear of the bonnet. Have a look at what turbo Minis are using for cooling - they have the exhaust manifold and turbo up against the bulkhead which means a rather hot engine bay.

What sort of oil temps are you getting?

Slosei said:

How much has the engine run in how many miles? Have you used over sized pistons etc which oil are you using?

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Done 100 miles now, standard pistons, and 05W40 Fully syntetic.

fingers99 said:

I've read that over rich can cause knock (as well as the more obvious issues of bore wash). Wonder if something in the 13:1 (stoic is 14.7!) range might be better.

Click to expand...

12-12.5 isn't that rich, and we are talking 4000-5000 at, ahem, higher speeds. I could lean it out a bit....but bore wash only really becomes an issue when running 10's or less, so I've read.

chaos said:

I would check the cooling system capacity of a Panda 100HP first and see if there's any major difference there.

I would have thought you would want to get the warm air out rather than ducting cool air in. Venting has been mentioned, you could wrap the manifold or ceramic coat it. You could also raise the rear of the bonnet. Have a look at what turbo Minis are using for cooling - they have the exhaust manifold and turbo up against the bulkhead which means a rather hot engine bay.

What sort of oil temps are you getting?

Click to expand...

Checking the capacity is a good idea...thats today job.

I'd look a bit stupid if i raised the bonnet i think But rear ducting seems possible.

I'd rather not wrap it at all due to rot (ask arc ; )...and ceramic is off the cards at the mo.

Oil temps I don't actually know yet. My logic being, that they must be quite high if coolant is. It can do no harm fitting an oil cooler as its thermostatic. Worst comes to worst, it never opens and no change is made. It can always be used in the future. I will know in a week or so though once a sender arrives


Cheers for al the ideas everyone

Kristian

Think you should be driving the car more steady lol you have only just built it run it in slower you should not evan be going past 3k rpm but thats my opinion
Zak

Agreed.

For the first 90 miles i took it very steady but noticed the problem. I then took it for a few higher speed runs which really highlighted the issue.....then i garaged it and am now not driving it until its resolved at which point i will take it easy again for about 500 more.

It was a catch 22. I didn't want to keep bedding it in with a potential temp problem and damage without realising it. I also didn't want to give it any stick. I did it in the end, just to check it out.

The 100hp which has now moved to my sis saw 7K on the lanes on its day of purchase though, for many many miles, and didn't seem too fussed lol. It's still going strong

KRistian

are the stats different to the 8v engines?? try fitting a low temp stat

Emma's car has water and oil temp gauges and we see nothing at all thats alarming, in fact it remains pretty cool never going over 90ish when sitting in traffic and about 80ish on the move, and thats witha rad thats has a tiny leak, has been since day we did conversion as needs topped up about ever 500miles as it makes its way from top to bottom of lines on expansion tank, will be replaced soon.

Oil, if you rag it a bit can get to about 100ish buts that 100% normal. I can't remember the exact values of it but ECU controls the fan and we can map that as well so if cars gets ragged a bit harder the fan cuts in lower temp.

TBH I can't help but thinking your problems are all coming from car not being set up right.

Stop wasting money on it trying to get fixes, get it to a rolling road with an experienced professional operator and see exactly what its doing as there from what I read an issue when its under load which can be replicated on r/r.

why not get the fan on a switch, it wont do much but will stop it heating up as quick.