The passenger dipped beam bulb (everyday driving light) is constantly blowing when i replace them with aftermarket bulbs...

im putting in H1 55watt bulbs i think it is and its always the left hand side that goes (the side thats really hard to get in, (battery))

iv tried using ebay ones
halfords extreme brilliance
and two sets of other ebay ones

i know people think ebay ones are rubbish usually but there all the same really just strange how the halfords ones which are £20 a go also blew very fast..

id say they blow within about 2-4 months of having them in..

im not touching the glass at all when i put the bulb in and im being as careful as possible to put them in without touching the metal at all..

If i use the standard bulbs they dont seem to have any problems.. the standard ones just dont seem bright enough though infact some people who have been in my car have asked if i had my headlights on a few times.

any ideas what could be the reason as to why only that side is blowing?

does the car run any diagnostic checks at all on the lighting?

im sure your ment to get a warning to let you know when your bulbs go but i dont seem to at all on my headlights not sure if its only ment to work on side lights?

Could be some water in the system somewhere shorting the cables running to the headlight assembly, or could be a loose connection into the back of the headlight, or somewhere else - although something like that should blow the fuse and not the bulb... have you tried changing the fuse for the headlights, checking that it's the right Amp rating?

Euro Mike said:

Could be some water in the system somewhere shorting the cables running to the headlight assembly, or could be a loose connection into the back of the headlight, or somewhere else - although something like that should blow the fuse and not the bulb... have you tried changing the fuse for the headlights, checking that it's the right Amp rating?

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iv not checked the amp rating on the fuse yet what is it ment to be any one know? guessin around 5 amps?

but wouldnt this mean that i would constantly be blowing fuses all the time instead?

i know i have got a loose connection on the connector part its self but its not moving enough to touch the other connector.. to short it out? Plastic part is slightly cracked

strange thins is it only blows after market bulbs :S


EDIT
answered my own question each bulb on the light circuit is connected in parallel meaning that the total amount that can be drawn from the fuse is what ever the total current is on one of the bulbs even if all three are on at the same time..



so that means if one bulb shorts it can draw up to 7.5 before it blows the fuse but the bulbs can only take 4.58 so that blows before the fuse does...

my question would the bulb blow if this happens? see diagram>



iv joined the earth on the body of the car to the power on the bulb directly (hense the little clip that holds the bulb in to the power connector on the car)

would this cause the bulb to draw extra amps through it as i thought electricity would always take the shortest route which would not be through the bulb meaning it should blow the fuse surely?

this is what im guessing has been happening as to come to a conclusion why bulbs on that side are always going.. (still doesnt make sense why standard ones dont go if that was the case)

ideally i need a wiring diagram of the headlight system on the bravo to see how it works as the only thing thats causing these bulbs to go is too much current (more then 4.58amps to be exact), vibration (doubtful) or a voltage spike!

craig20102010 said:

iv not checked the amp rating on the fuse yet what is it ment to be any one know? guessin around 5 amps?

but wouldnt this mean that i would constantly be blowing fuses all the time instead?

i know i have got a loose connection on the connector part its self but its not moving enough to touch the other connector.. to short it out? Plastic part is slightly cracked

strange thins is it only blows after market bulbs :S


EDIT
answered my own question each bulb on the light circuit is connected in parallel meaning that the total amount that can be drawn from the fuse is what ever the total current is on one of the bulbs even if all three are on at the same time..

so that means if one bulb shorts it can draw up to 7.5 before it blows the fuse but the bulbs can only take 4.58 so that blows before the fuse does...

my question would the bulb blow if this happens? see diagram>

iv joined the earth on the body of the car to the power on the bulb directly (hense the little clip that holds the bulb in to the power connector on the car)

would this cause the bulb to draw extra amps through it as i thought electricity would always take the shortest route which would not be through the bulb meaning it should blow the fuse surely?

this is what im guessing has been happening as to come to a conclusion why bulbs on that side are always going.. (still doesnt make sense why standard ones dont go if that was the case)

ideally i need a wiring diagram of the headlight system on the bravo to see how it works as the only thing thats causing these bulbs to go is too much current (more then 4.58amps to be exact), vibration (doubtful) or a voltage spike!

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1) Aftermarket bulbs that give out more light for the same power are basically running the filament hotter. Consequently their life is shorter.

2) My experience is that incandescent bulbs blow most often when they are switched on, not during use. The more often they are switched on and off, the more likely they are to blow. Bulbs usually have a rated lifetime for a number of switching cycles.

If you have a loose connection, then maybe you are effectively switching that bulb on and off momentarily hundreds of times every trip? A cold filament is lower electrical resistance, so draws higher current. Volts x Amps = Power, so high current = high power. Switching does not do bulbs any good!

neilshep said:

1) Aftermarket bulbs that give out more light for the same power are basically running the filament hotter. Consequently their life is shorter.

2) My experience is that incandescent bulbs blow most often when they are switched on, not during use. The more often they are switched on and off, the more likely they are to blow. Bulbs usually have a rated lifetime for a number of switching cycles.

If you have a loose connection, then maybe you are effectively switching that bulb on and off momentarily hundreds of times every trip? A cold filament is lower electrical resistance, so draws higher current. Volts x Amps = Power, so high current = high power. Switching does not do bulbs any good!

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ok...certainly no loose connections in there maybe i should check for bad earths then on that side

i do find that the bulbs always go when they are switched on mind which is why i was suspecting some sort of spike in voltage or current.

just strange how its always that side and its always after market bulbs even the really expensive ones like the £20 bulb from halfords. whats different about the standard bulbs they have a slightly thicker fillerament?

the passenger side only seem to be lasting me 2 months max yet the drivers side has never blown must be something happening thats different on that side.

Page 169 of the Bravo owners manual states bulbs are "longlife dipped beam headlights". The implication is that others are "shortlife". It does seem odd that its always one side that fails.

same problem here since i used the first aftermarket bulbs (usually blow within 2 months) am using OSRAM hyper white ..witch as written they not approved for using in US and europe ...cost around 10$ and gives a great Xenon-like light .... you cant tell the difference ..still damn poor light and you are almost blind on autobans without high beam!!

is your rear washer jet working? mine wasnt and it was getting the wiring wet for the headlight when used

Big Black Stilo said:

is your rear washer jet working? mine wasnt and it was getting the wiring wet for the headlight when used

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yeh that's all working.. Rear washer jet and front are fine..

Even if it did get wet that would once again blow a fuse?

Doesnt make any sense at all why its always the left one... at fist i thought it was due to me not been careful enough at putting them in.. and would make sense since that side is solid to get in.. but i was extra careful with the last bulb and didnt touch even the metal edge on the light casing but yet still 2 months...

iv replaced it now with another of the same bulb since i had a spare one from my last pair.. Makes me not want to turn my lights on till the last minute though incase they blow..

im tempted to just buy xenon Headlights they have the correct lens on the car already just missing the washer jet and the auto adjustment (which is the same as doing it your self)..

plus the only thing the car can be changing to make that side blow is the voltage and the ones iv been looking at can take from 9v to 16v so it wont damage the ballast at all..

Still would like to know a possible cause to why its always the left..

mine do the same but i just go pound shop and get another problem sorted

danny120T said:

mine do the same but i just go pound shop and get another problem sorted

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left hand side only?

craig20102010 said:

left hand side only?

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any update for this issue..mine marea weekend jtd got same problem, left dipped headlight..no power anymore.. no voltage at connector..

When one bulb blows it can cause a spike that affects the other bulb leading to sid viscious circle of one bulb blowing. I was told to replace them in pairs and it seems to work.

If one bulb keeps blowing you have to find what is affecting that bulb.

Summary of the above:
Poor connections
Poor earth connection

Also consider:
Headlamp a bit loose on its mountings, causing vibration on that side.
Driving through puddles making a splash, so cooling that lamp suddenly.