This work was done by myself on my own van to save money on Labour costs. It took me about 4 hours, including mini breaks for cups of tea- I didn't rush as I allowed myself an entire afternoon to do the work. I am not claiming this is the way to do it, but only that it isn't such a nightmare to do, the only issues are: unable to see pump bolts, limited space between pump bolts and inner wing.
Parts purchased:
Water pump with gasket, two jubilee clips for water pump hoses (3 if the bottom of the expansion bottle doesn't have a jubilee clip) and coolant.
Tools used:
Van's scissor jack, axle stand, hydraulic trolley jack( second scissor jack was used as this jack blew a seal — 4t Halfords) , 3/8" socket set, 1/2" socket set, Extension bar(breaker bar will do) for RH front wheel, tray to catch coolant, Allen keys, torx keys, modified 15mm long reach spanner, tool to break old metal pipe clips and a flat blade screwdriver to break seal between hose and water pump.
This was a brand new flat long reach spanner ( US Pro) 15mm/14mm and in order to clear the bottom pully on the crank I put the bend in as seen in photo using Mapp gas torch, vice and just bend when soft with my hand to apply pressure and hammer. It is the perfect tool for the job so I have added it to my van tool kit.
How I removed the water pump
1- Loosened the wheel bolts using a 21mm socket on an extension bar(breaker). Then, jacked up van and used another jack with an off cut off scaffold board under the sump, but avoiding the sump plug area. You want the board to be thick and overlap the edge of the sump. I jacked the plank up till I could see it was just moving the engine up a bit.
2- Removed the front right wheel and then using the spanner in the photo, put it on the tensioner wheel bolt and pushed the spanner toward the radiator (anti-clockwise as view from right side of van). Whilst holding the tension, with one hand, slipped the belt off with the other and then gently release the pressure on the spanner.
3- Using torx keys remove the grill. My van has the two plastic screws missing on the lower part of the grill, so once the four upper torx screws were out I could lift it off.
4- Remove the black slam panel with a 10mm socket on four bolts- two each end. Once theyre removed, wiggle and lift off the radiator locating pins and then let it rest, hanging over the front left bumper end.
5- Bottom left of the radiator is a plastic screw in plug, leave expansion cap on to give better control of flow, to try and limit mess. Place a large deep tray underneath (something that can hold 10Itres), loosen and drain coolant out. When flow drops, loosen the cap a bit at a time to let it drain out a bit quicker. When the expansion bottle is empty, while the last of the coolant drains out, remove the expansion bottle. The Expansion bottle is held in by two Allen bolts and one bolt (13mm socket). You will need to remove the clip holding the large bottom hose on (mine has a jubilee clip on from previous work). Once that pipe is removed, put the bottle over the top of the engine.
6- Lift the power steering bottle up out of the rubber bung and move it backwards so you can remove the supporting tray. The tray is held in by two bolts, one at the front accessible from underneath (underneath just behind end bumper), the other on inner wing and one nut on a long thread (13mm deep reach) that sits between the two power steering pipes on the chassis. Once you have removed the two bolts and the nut the tray will easily come out. Next open the two pipe clips lower down, so that you can then pull the power steering bottle forward out the way of the engine mount.
7- Now you have access to the engine mount bolts. Using a ½" socket set, with a 18mm deep reach socket, remove 3 nuts and 3 long bolts, making sure engine support is holding the engine up. If unsure when the 3 nuts are loose, jack up a little more. When you have removed the bolts and the nuts the engine mount should lift off, it has an alignment dowl on it.
8- Next is the water pump. This is held on by 5 bolts, which you can use your new pump for location reference. I used a 3/8" socket set using a deep reach 15mm socket for 3 bolts around the pully area and a deep reach 13mm socket for the two smaller bolts that are closer together, towards the front of the engine. Make sure your tray that you used to catch the radiator coolant sits under the water pump as there will still be some fluid in it. When all the bolts are out the pump will lift out from the top. It will still have both hoses connected to it, which I broke the clips and used a flat blade to break the seal so the pipes would pop off.
9- Fitting the new water pump, depending on your gasket, may differ when dealing with the gasket. The original was a metal and my replacement was a paper, but arrived with a split in it, so had to use instant gasket to repair it and hold it in place. I applied a thin layer of instant gasket to the pump (didn't want the van off the road for days waiting for another gasket) and applied the paper gasket. You may want to use another method to hold the gasket in place before you try to install the new pump, as it could be very awkward to align the pump, gasket bolt holes when on the engine. Fitting the new pump is fairly easy, but getting the first bolt to thread in by fingers only, can be a bit of a fiddle. Once the pump is held in by one loose bolt, add the other bolts and tighten evenly.
10- Now pump is fitted, refit the engine mount, you may need to push or pull the engine forward to align the long bolt threads up on the top of the new pump. I put all the bolts in with my fingers before evenly tightening down. Water pump hoses I used jubilee clips. Refitted the tray, the power steering and expansion bottle. I refilled the coolant system and refitted the belt (ideally put a new belt on, but the one I ordered was the wrong size, so the old one had to be used). Refit the front slam panel, the grill, wheel and removed jacks!
Parts purchased:
Water pump with gasket, two jubilee clips for water pump hoses (3 if the bottom of the expansion bottle doesn't have a jubilee clip) and coolant.
Tools used:
Van's scissor jack, axle stand, hydraulic trolley jack( second scissor jack was used as this jack blew a seal — 4t Halfords) , 3/8" socket set, 1/2" socket set, Extension bar(breaker bar will do) for RH front wheel, tray to catch coolant, Allen keys, torx keys, modified 15mm long reach spanner, tool to break old metal pipe clips and a flat blade screwdriver to break seal between hose and water pump.
This was a brand new flat long reach spanner ( US Pro) 15mm/14mm and in order to clear the bottom pully on the crank I put the bend in as seen in photo using Mapp gas torch, vice and just bend when soft with my hand to apply pressure and hammer. It is the perfect tool for the job so I have added it to my van tool kit.
How I removed the water pump
1- Loosened the wheel bolts using a 21mm socket on an extension bar(breaker). Then, jacked up van and used another jack with an off cut off scaffold board under the sump, but avoiding the sump plug area. You want the board to be thick and overlap the edge of the sump. I jacked the plank up till I could see it was just moving the engine up a bit.
2- Removed the front right wheel and then using the spanner in the photo, put it on the tensioner wheel bolt and pushed the spanner toward the radiator (anti-clockwise as view from right side of van). Whilst holding the tension, with one hand, slipped the belt off with the other and then gently release the pressure on the spanner.
3- Using torx keys remove the grill. My van has the two plastic screws missing on the lower part of the grill, so once the four upper torx screws were out I could lift it off.
4- Remove the black slam panel with a 10mm socket on four bolts- two each end. Once theyre removed, wiggle and lift off the radiator locating pins and then let it rest, hanging over the front left bumper end.
5- Bottom left of the radiator is a plastic screw in plug, leave expansion cap on to give better control of flow, to try and limit mess. Place a large deep tray underneath (something that can hold 10Itres), loosen and drain coolant out. When flow drops, loosen the cap a bit at a time to let it drain out a bit quicker. When the expansion bottle is empty, while the last of the coolant drains out, remove the expansion bottle. The Expansion bottle is held in by two Allen bolts and one bolt (13mm socket). You will need to remove the clip holding the large bottom hose on (mine has a jubilee clip on from previous work). Once that pipe is removed, put the bottle over the top of the engine.
6- Lift the power steering bottle up out of the rubber bung and move it backwards so you can remove the supporting tray. The tray is held in by two bolts, one at the front accessible from underneath (underneath just behind end bumper), the other on inner wing and one nut on a long thread (13mm deep reach) that sits between the two power steering pipes on the chassis. Once you have removed the two bolts and the nut the tray will easily come out. Next open the two pipe clips lower down, so that you can then pull the power steering bottle forward out the way of the engine mount.
7- Now you have access to the engine mount bolts. Using a ½" socket set, with a 18mm deep reach socket, remove 3 nuts and 3 long bolts, making sure engine support is holding the engine up. If unsure when the 3 nuts are loose, jack up a little more. When you have removed the bolts and the nuts the engine mount should lift off, it has an alignment dowl on it.
8- Next is the water pump. This is held on by 5 bolts, which you can use your new pump for location reference. I used a 3/8" socket set using a deep reach 15mm socket for 3 bolts around the pully area and a deep reach 13mm socket for the two smaller bolts that are closer together, towards the front of the engine. Make sure your tray that you used to catch the radiator coolant sits under the water pump as there will still be some fluid in it. When all the bolts are out the pump will lift out from the top. It will still have both hoses connected to it, which I broke the clips and used a flat blade to break the seal so the pipes would pop off.
9- Fitting the new water pump, depending on your gasket, may differ when dealing with the gasket. The original was a metal and my replacement was a paper, but arrived with a split in it, so had to use instant gasket to repair it and hold it in place. I applied a thin layer of instant gasket to the pump (didn't want the van off the road for days waiting for another gasket) and applied the paper gasket. You may want to use another method to hold the gasket in place before you try to install the new pump, as it could be very awkward to align the pump, gasket bolt holes when on the engine. Fitting the new pump is fairly easy, but getting the first bolt to thread in by fingers only, can be a bit of a fiddle. Once the pump is held in by one loose bolt, add the other bolts and tighten evenly.
10- Now pump is fitted, refit the engine mount, you may need to push or pull the engine forward to align the long bolt threads up on the top of the new pump. I put all the bolts in with my fingers before evenly tightening down. Water pump hoses I used jubilee clips. Refitted the tray, the power steering and expansion bottle. I refilled the coolant system and refitted the belt (ideally put a new belt on, but the one I ordered was the wrong size, so the old one had to be used). Refit the front slam panel, the grill, wheel and removed jacks!
