I found that the brown wire was too small for the load. But the real problem that I had/was a bottle neck at the connector of the white block connector and also the ignition switch. These two points actually overhead considerably/dangerously even if they were cleaned.
Starter motor problem ( I should starts a new thread for this one):
I don't have that instrument electrical problem any more, but have a starting problem. I will attack that starting problem in the spring once out of storage. I have had this inconsistent problem since I owned the car.
The problem is that it will make that solenoid knocking sound but the starter won’t turn most of the time. I rebuilt 3 starters, cleaned connectors, installed a ground strap at the starter, still have this intermitted problem.
I suspect that the wire between starter solenoid and the ignition switch is dirty along the way or it’s again too small. Once out of the storage I will make wire heat test and calculate the size to match its load. That wire is a 12AWG driving the solenoid (and its inner return spring) and the first stage of starting and engagement of the starter motor. Yes the starter motors! That small wire is actually driving the starter for a fraction of seconds before the main big electrical cable enters in action. A wire that size could only drive 20Amp considering 20feet long. This circuit is not protected. A free running starter motors probably pulls around 100amp at the peak stage. It is intermitted probably because it is almost there to make a contact.
What do you think?
Bob