General Potential value of 1980 X19 Bertone

[1980Bertone]

Hey all,

We're cleaning out my Dad's garage and we need to get rid of this car. We're in Kansas, USA.

We'd like to know what we might be able to get for it (quickly) and the best medium to use to sell it.

Below are some info and pictures. There's a good chance I'm not including some pertinent info, so if there are any other questions please respond and I'll do my best to answer them.

Thanks for your help.

• 
  Hasn't moved since 1997
  Dad said the water pump was the problem at that time
  It's a hardtop convertible
  The upholstery is leather, but is pretty worn and ripped
  The rest of the interior appears to be intact
  I couldn't figure out how to open the hood, so I haven't seen the engine

 

[Steve G]

no idea of US prices, but interior is vinyl not leather. The rear boot (trunk) and engine cover release levers are in the drivers door shut (same side for all). Front boot (trunk) is in the footwell - can't remember which side!
Interesting wheels - are they genuine centre lock or fake? Bodywork superficially looks reasonable.
Good luck with moving it on - hopefully someone can take it on and put it back on the road

 

[1980Bertone]

Okay, it probably is vinyl. It is better vinyl than I remember in my old Cutlass Supreme from back in the day.

I'll check the wheels (and the engine) next time I'm out there.

Thanks for the reply.

 

[DanSarandrea]

Since you're in the USA and are selling a USA-spec exxie, probably best to come over to xwebforums dot com.

To open the engine cover and "runk" (rear trunk), open the driver's door and locate the side-by-side levers in the rear door jamb. For 1980 they will be chrome plated. Inner lever is the engine cover, outer is the runk.


To open the "frunk" (front trunk ), you will find a lever mounted on the driver's kick panel. Rotate the lever clockwise to release the catch, then pull up where the left front cowl grille meets the frunklid. Hold it up and unlatch the prop rod attached to the frunklid and place its bottom into the slot on the fenderwell. When closing, lower the frunklid into place, then using the lever inside on the kick panel, rotate the lever counterclockwise to draw the frunklid down and into locked position. DO NOT drop and slam it, you'll break something.


A car that has been sitting in a barn for 20 years will need everything hydraulic and fuel for sure and judging by the animal turds, most likely will need major wiring repair. If a water pump issue sidelined the car in the first place, that means it likely overheated, lost the head gasket, and warped at least the head, and at the time in 1997 it was deemed to be "not economically repairable". If the car was left sitting with coolant in the cylinders from a bad head gasket, it's likely those cylinders have major corrosion and may need sleeves or maybe an entire engine.


With that amount of work needed, this is likely going to be a parts car unless whomever buys it knows their exxies and feels that the condition of the body/chassis (if pristeen) warrants the expense needed to correct the mechanicals.

Really, REALLY, R-E-A-L-L-Y nice X1/9s have sold recently on eBay for $8,000-$10,000. Assuming there is no sentimental desire to restore the car and you are just looking for what it's worth in a fast sale scenario, depending upon where you are in Kansas probably decides whether this car is junked, or sold as a parts car for around $500. If you are in the middle of everywhere (geo center of US) or near the world's largest ball of string, it's likely scrap metal; if you are vicinity of KC or Wichita, list it on Craigs as a $500 parts car.

 

[Steve G]

I like the "runk' and "frunk" - doesn't really work in UK - we'd have a "root" and a "foot"!

 

[vale of uscon]

I would have called the front the bonnet release (although bonnet is usually where the engine is) in this case it’s still be front.
The rear the boot release and the engine cover just that.
It’s funny reading other countries interpretations and what’s wrong with that anyway.

You could always try the X1/9 owners club. The one it the UK is informative and helpful. Not sure if there’s a US equivalent.
Good luck either way.
From the badges and dashboard views it looks like a 1970’s model, but with that US front bumper I’m don’t know when they were introduced.

Regards
Simon

 

[vale of uscon]

Body work looks really good it must be the climate.
Shame to let it go for scrap.

 

[1980Bertone]

Appreciate the feedback everyone.

The car has no sentimental value to me, so based on what I've read, I suggested that Mom take whatever she can get for it and get it out of the way.

Dad had talked to a guy he works with before he passed, that had said he was interested at $700. So, based on what I'm reading, if we can get that, we'll be pretty fortunate.

 

[olliefromuk]

Sorry for your loss. The bodywork is important, looks quite rust free, cleaned up a bit with new tyres etc, could fetch 1.5/3 thousand usd, just a rough guess as im in the UK, good luck

 

[olliefromuk]

Wouldn't say the engine condition would effect the price, a good service and it should be fine. Planning to drive it yourself? You might get hooked!

 

[Michael Dranfield]

Under the dust it looks to be in really good condition, I would give it a good wash before trying to sell it.

 

[DanSarandrea]

After a second look at the pix, your car is a 1979 model. First year for the 1500cc engine, 5-speed trans, revised interior, etc. It has the 1979-only engine cover (the slotted black metal panel behind the rear window), distinctive in that it does not have an oval cut out on each side. 1980 and later engine covers have an additional oval slot cut out on each side.


The USA forum for X1/9s is www dot xwebforums dot com