Technical Clutch Master cylinder change

[vale of uscon]

Does anyone have any tips on changing the clutch master cylinder?


My mate & I have tried all methods, for bleeding the clutch and we just can't get the air out. Elevating the back end, slow pressure on the clutch pedal, depress pedal close off nipple release and anything else we can think of.
I assuming we have a small leak somewhere, which is letting air in. It could be the supply pipe from the bottle to the master cylinder, it could be the cylinder itself. either way change them both and rule them out!


So I'm preparing myself to change both the supply tube and the master cylinder.


Before I start, I just thought I would post the question.
The Haynes manual makes it sound simple, but then again doesn't it always.


Thanks,


Simon

 

[sledgehammer]

I'd try replacing the slave cylinder first, cheap as chips (well fish and chips) and a half hour job.

 

[vale of uscon]

Sorry,


I should have been more specific, I have already changed the slave cylinder, which was badly corroded and leaking.
Hence the bleeding problem...bleeding in more ways than one!


Regards,


Simon

 

[Nello]

I've just done my slave and it was indeed a bugger to bleed Simon. You have to get a Gunsons Eezibleed pressure bleeder IMO. Make sure you add no more the 12psi and also use a bottle with a one-way valve on the bleed nipple. I secured mine with a wooden clothes peg to the nipple as it kept coming off. The trick is to also pump the pedal whilst the air is being forced through. Just watch the reservoir bottle though as it quickly pushes through a whole bottle of fluid. You will get some fluid forced out from the reservoir seal so make sure you flush the scuttle with plenty of water as it can be corrosive. I tried all sorts but this finally successfully bleed the system in a short while.

 

[ppalma]

I replaced mine a while ago, and it was relatively peaceful.
http://socalx.com/xhelp/shopmanual.htm
I just pushed the pedal down (it holds the position on its own) and forced fluid through it using a modified reservoir cap (with a tire valve through it) and some compressed air. Be careful with the fluid level and the pressure. The reservoir may become brittle with age.
I happened to have some spare reservoir caps because I had to replace the brake fluid reservoir, as it was all brittle and cracked. These are no longer available, so I used two clutch reservoirs instead of the original brake reservoir. Early X1/9s had this configuration, and clutch reservoirs are easy to come by and cheap from Lada, as they were used in the Niva.

 

[Travelandlive]

Hello,
I've replaced this on another cat and it was pretty easy.
It is it difficult on a fiat 500 2012?
My car is currently in the shop and I cant look at it now.
Was wondering if anyone could tell me the location or have pictures

Thanks

 

[Nello]

Travelandlive - think you need to post that on the 500 forum threads - its a completely different job on the X...........