General Headlight Musings

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General Headlight Musings

bludvl_x19

42 Wallaby Way Sydney
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I was bored over the weekend, and so I came up with some things that I would like to do to my x, and I would like some help to see if they are possible/feasible.


1. When you turn on the headlights to just the driving lights (ie. no headlights) the headlights come up anyway. Is it possible to rewire/modify the ???? to only pop the headlights when you turn them on, or am I stuck with it?

2. Another headlight question. Is it possible to adjust the distance that the covers come up? I think the round headlights are on par with the cal-style bumpers in terms of street cred, nd I was thinking of putting a set of hella driving lights or similar in their place, which means that the covers dont need to come up as much.


Any help appreciated.

blu:devil:
 
The headlights are tied to the dip/main circuit via some relays. Hypothetically speaking all you need to do is pick the source up from the sidelight circuit instead but you need to be carefull as it is originally an independent circuit through the headlight switch. It's been a mighty long time since I studied the wiring diagrams so please make sure you have a good look yourself before trying it out.

The headlamp motors contain most of the wiring so it should work provided the relays are energised correctly.

To change the rise on the lamps you need to be a bit creative. The height is governed by a cam and an actuating rod on each side. You can either shorten the cam (and lengthen the lever) or move where the rod fits to the headlamps. Both sound simple but without some careful fabrication it is far from easy.

You could take the cams out and modify them to shorten the throw while the rod itself is already adjustable so it should only require relatively minor modification.

Whatever you do it needs to be tough. There is fair bit of force applied to the headlamp pods and it all goes through the cam and rod. You only have to look at the gearing of the motor to realise just how hard it pushes. A common breakdown on X1/9s comes from someone try to force the headlight pods up or down without using the manual winder. It is also a common "vandalism" where some "helpful" individual decides your car just doesn't look right with one pod not quite down (or occasionally both fully up) and tries to push them shut. The result is an annoying an potentially expensive repair bill.
 
The headlights are tied to the dip/main circuit via some relays. Hypothetically speaking all you need to do is pick the source up from the sidelight circuit instead but you need to be carefull as it is originally an independent circuit through the headlight switch. It's been a mighty long time since I studied the wiring diagrams so please make sure you have a good look yourself before trying it out.

The headlamp motors contain most of the wiring so it should work provided the relays are energised correctly.

To change the rise on the lamps you need to be a bit creative. The height is governed by a cam and an actuating rod on each side. You can either shorten the cam (and lengthen the lever) or move where the rod fits to the headlamps. Both sound simple but without some careful fabrication it is far from easy.

You could take the cams out and modify them to shorten the throw while the rod itself is already adjustable so it should only require relatively minor modification.

Whatever you do it needs to be tough. There is fair bit of force applied to the headlamp pods and it all goes through the cam and rod. You only have to look at the gearing of the motor to realise just how hard it pushes. A common breakdown on X1/9s comes from someone try to force the headlight pods up or down without using the manual winder. It is also a common "vandalism" where some "helpful" individual decides your car just doesn't look right with one pod not quite down (or occasionally both fully up) and tries to push them shut. The result is an annoying an potentially expensive repair bill.

Thanks,

I know that adjusting the pushrod wont achieve the result that im looking for, as the motor will still throw the rod the same distance, but as for the others, I'm gonna have a fiddle.

BTW, the car will be off the road next week because the clutch has gone completley, so I have virtually no drive in any gear. This problem is still spasmodic, but serious enough to warrant fixing.

blu:devil:
 
The clutch failure sounds like the hydraulics - the slave cylinder tends to be the first part to fail in the system. It isn't cheap to replace but an awful lot better than a complete new clutch only to find out there was nothing wrong with it to start with...

Easy to check the slave cylinder but only with two people present. One pumps the clutch pedal and the other watches the clutch release arm. If the arm is moving over the full range then you know it is all ok but it probably won't be.
 
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