Imageshack crashed, see below!

Tom

Techniclutch cover



Here is the clutch cover sat on the flywheel, note the large mass missing where the cover normally would sit. You can see the blocks i'm using to allow it to sit at the correct hight.



Back of the 3.5kg flywheel showing metal removed from the back of the friction surface on the other side. Teh metal is a lot thicker here obviously and you can go 'in' as well as just skimming this side.



God these take ages to polish by hand!



Tom

Looks like youv'e done a proper job on that fly, like the idea of the spacers, is this the end result, ready to fit, going for the under bonnet bling eh!, what did you rub down the manifold with, looks like were all getting ready for a good summer hopefully we'l all meet up, i'm going to a few car meets this year (camping he he) Ant!

antsuno2 said:

Looks like youv'e done a proper job on that fly, like the idea of the spacers, is this the end result, ready to fit, going for the under bonnet bling eh!, what did you rub down the manifold with, looks like were all getting ready for a good summer hopefully we'l all meet up, i'm going to a few car meets this year (camping he he) Ant!

Click to expand...

Hi Ant,

The fly and clutch need to be balanced, but i'll wait and do that at the same time as my pulley, which hasn't been shrink fitted yet. (i'll post a pic, albeit not a very exciting one of that this evening)

I have only used relatively rough sand paper on the inlet thus far as it takes a fair bit of elbow grease to rub it down low enough to remove the casting imperfections. I have wet and dryed some of it to see just how far off the mark i am as its hard to know without trying an area sometimes.

I'm going to use a polishing mop attached to a drill, but alas there is no hurry.

Back to the flywheel, i was or still am a little concerned about the spacers being stable enough to be honest. Now the threads have not been altered, they remain in tact as they didnt start until half way through the wheel. I guess i'm just being naturally cautious, the spacers are steel and i cant see how they could twist, they are quite wide.

Tom

Scary!

Does the clutch sit in the same place in relation to the ring gear or input shaft. It looks "higher".

I dont like your spacer idea TBH. There will be a large twisting moment on the spacers. The spacers are taking the whole load/torque of the engine, This torque would usually be spread over a much larger area. The diaphram is also not well supported. It may flex.

Hi Steve,

The cover sits at the same height as before give or take a 0.5mm, i dont think he was that accurate.

It may flex a little, its not something i had considered, TBH the idea of spacers wasn't 'planned' the chap hatched the idea and thought he'd surprise me, which he did!

I was considering welding the spacers in place or replacing them with an ally ring that did the same job which was solid, not hugely heavier but more stable.

If the spacers could be welded successfully then the force on the bolts would be no greater than before, it would just be the flexing you mention that would be the issue.

I think the alloy ring to replace them entirely would be best, what do you think?

EDIT:

Apparently the 'ring' concept isn't clear at all. Imgaine a large version of a ring you'd have on your finger, that sits on the same circumference to the spacers, thus doing the same job in a better way perhaps...

Tom

Pics of gt/uno crank pulley.

I had the ring gear machined from the gt pulley and the uno pulley machined to leave an interference fit.

All i have to do is heat up the larger ring and slip it over, and the friction after it cools will hold it in place.

I'm then left with the 'bumps' for the gt sensor and the 'V' belt style pulley!





Oh and catch tank..



Tom

You want to shrink that pulley in the freezer there tom as well as heat the ring up, but id be worried about warping the ring as it cools on the pulley, personally i would get it welded together and then have it faced to balnce and take any warps out from the welding process, but nice work with the flywheel, bet you notice it on the flats (but as equally on hills )

Jordan

Hi,

I was advised to heat it in a kiln, so it was heated gradually and more importantly as you suggest, evenly.

I dont think it will warp, but nether the less it will go off with the flywheel for balancing to to be on the safe side.

I pretty much made up my mind last night that i'll scrap the spacer blocks and replace them with 3 of these shapes (. The cover only makes contact with the flywheel in the places, so i'll support it in these places. Weight wont be affected much as i'll have them made from ally, and they'll offer much more support and keep the high shear forces off the bolts.

Tom

Alloy ring does sound the best and it would weigh next to nothing, drop the clutch!!!!! YEEEEHAAAAA!!!!!!! vroommmmmm tshhhh!!! no bang!! ANT!

antsuno2 said:

Alloy ring does sound the best and it would weigh next to nothing, drop the clutch!!!!! YEEEEHAAAAA!!!!!!! vroommmmmm tshhhh!!! no bang!! ANT!

Click to expand...

Nicely put Ant! lol

Yeah i agree, i think there shouldn't be a bang after the tissshhhhh!!!!

Though saying that, there wont be any tissshhhh either, i'm going recirc when i find a good/cheap/someone wanting to swap a bailey or forge atmos etc...

Tom

how come your getting rid of the PTTIIISSHHHH!!!!!! tom, i never had one for 6 months and then bought the forge, you beauty!!! i love it i find myself driving around with no tunes on most of the time, i kept the old recirc one tho just in case Ant!

Quicker through the gears, my turbo is laggy!

Would you swap it for a 500 - 1000 mile old forge dv, so you have a spare? Its dark blue and in mint nick, i took it off a friends popped uno t ages ago.

I'd keep my bailey just in case!

Oh and which recirc is it?

Tom

they were going on about pro's and cons of recirc an atmos dumps on puntosports and they reconned there was no difference if anything slightly better with atmos as it doesn't force it back down the turbo stalling the blades oh well i'm not to sure, the one ive got is a black bosche standard mk2 ut one in the loft but i probably have a spare on the other engine i will have a look for ya!! Ant

Nah recircs dont do that, thats the whole point of a dv, its their job infact to prevent the boost going back to the turbo.

Dont look for a OEM one, i have one of those which i may have a bit of a play with when its back on the road. I do like atmos dv's but sometimes i wish i could pulley away without all the fuss.

Tom