Hmmmmm... sounds like you have most of the checks done...
Gun_Metal_Grey said:
Previously the handbrake lever would go up about 4 clicks, now i have over tightened to about 2 clicks and which hasn't improved things.
As I understand, too much play on a handbrake lever is a MOT failure. Anything more than 4 clicks could be considered as a MOT failure.
I think you should have at least four clicks travel for the adjusters to work properly (as described in my previous post). I would be very surprised if you failed the MOT based solely on 'number of clicks'. In fact, I'm sure you won't. Some cars have a finer ratchet than others (the one in the Uno is not very fine...) so it would be impractical to set a 'four-click limit'. As you say, too much play in the handbrake is the fail (e.g. if the lever came up more than 2/3rds of the possible travel with nothing happening).
You will find that if the adjusters do their job correctly, the handbrake will end up with less travel than what you might need in the first place to get them working. You can always tighten it up again later if you're not convinced
Here is the 'official' word from the handbook:
"Follow this procedure to adjust handbrake lever travel:
- Pull the lever up three or four "clicks".
- Loosen tensioning locknut A; turn nut B until cable C is taut, then tighten the locknut.
- Ensure car does not move when the handbrake is engaged."
I personally would beg to differ - I always adjust the tension with the nuts, etc. unloaded (lever fully off). I don't know how you would otherwise decide how 'taut' to make the cable! But you can gather from the above instructions that at least three or four clicks would be the result (probably more, if the cable was not left particularly 'taut').
For your guidance, with the claiper away from the brake disc, I noticed that when the level is pushed down several times to piston moves up. Eventually it will reach a maximum height, which seems more than sufficient to lock pads to disc. I had to turn the piston clockwise to lower back into normal position. Not sure if is normal behaviour.
This sounds good. That is the action of the self-adjuster that you are seeing. My concern is still that this self-adjustment (that you have seen by operating the lever) is not occuring when the cable is connected, because the cable is not slack enough to allow the lever to go fully-off (or, the cable is partially seized and therefore not allowing the lever to go fully-off).
Will try the above, but unsure what you mean by "pry the caliper lever 'off'"? How do I do this?
Right, I meant that the lever should be fully-clockwise (against its stop, as you look at the caliper underside) and therefore in the handbrake 'off' position. I think also that you should disconnect the cable (I know that it's a nuisance, but that will enable you to check it for seizure*)
I still think that the problems are most likely to lie in the cable or the tension... and less likely to be in the caliper itself.
-Alex
(* - spelling? "i before e, except after c, and except in 'weird' and 'seize'..."?