Technical Fitting SX Clocks in MK2 1.0 IE

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Technical Fitting SX Clocks in MK2 1.0 IE

Hi All,
I have the clocks in
695705.jpg


1986Uno45S said:
…The tacho just needed one extra wire from the low tension side of the coil, and I incorporated that into the multi pin plug for the dashboard.

Chas
from https://www.fiatforum.com/showthread.php?t=28672 thread.

I think I could do with a little more guidance getting the rev counter working. I see which pin the wire should conest to at the Pod end. I’m not where to connect it on the coil, or what load the wire will need to carry IE thickness if wire to use.

The Speedo reads low. I’m sure in second by engine sound I should be doing 40 MPH – it reads 30MPH. I think I will try and sauces the Speedo form a 1.0IE “S”.

All the lights work - Apart from the front fog indicator, But I still need the loom to get them going :rolleyes:

Regards All,
 
Louie Bee said:
Hi All,
I think I could do with a little more guidance getting the rev counter working. I see which pin the wire should conest to at the Pod end. I’m not where to connect it on the coil, or what load the wire will need to carry IE thickness if wire to use.

Ok Louie, I went outside specially at midnight to look under my bonnet for you here :p

My mk1 has the 'dry' coil (looks like a transformer), mounted on the passenger side of the engine bay.

If you look from the top, you will see the main HT lead leading to the coil. Just below are two more connections - left and right. One has a red wire, and the other has a green wire. As you face the car, the green wire is on the RIGHT. If you have the same type of coil as mine, you should be able to pull off the rubber boot covering the connection on the GREEN wire. There are two shared spade connectors under this boot. One is not used, and it is this one that you want to connect the tachometer wire to.

Assuming your wiring is the same as mine, connect one wire to the GREEN wire terminal of the coil, and the other to the back of the instrument pod.

As to what kind of wire to use, general auto electrical cable is fine. It's not carrying a high ampage, so just match it to some wire that looks similar in thickness to the rest of the coil wiring. I had an old engine wiring loom and I simply nicked some of the wire to use for my tachometer!

I've no idea which connection to use on the instrument pod as I'm not familiar with the mk2 Uno. It's one of the vacant slots!

Louie Bee said:
The Speedo reads low. I’m sure in second by engine sound I should be doing 40 MPH – it reads 30MPH. I think I will try and sauces the Speedo form a 1.0IE “S”.

You mentioned earlier in your post that you 'reset' the speedo to read 0mph instead of 5mph. This is your problem! A lot of modern speedos only read from 5mph upwards, much like some tachometers only work from 500 rpm upwards. I'm not 100% sure, but it looks like the SX speedo should rest on 5mph and only show speeds above this figure.

So, make the needle rest on 5mph again and you'll probably get a similar reading to your old dashboard.

As far as I'm aware the gearbox drive for the speedo is the same for all Uno's, and they all pretty much had the same rolling radius with regards to wheels and tyres. Therefore no recalibration is necessary whatever the model.

However, some of the gearboxes had different final drive ratios, and this may well affect the correct reading. Anyone know more about this? AlexGS?

Good luck with the swap!

Chas
 
Many Thanks Chas!

I Just checked my Coil it also looks like a transformer. Under the HT lead there is a connector with 4 wires Left to right Red Orange and 2 green.

Haynes Red manual page 13.73 shows them going to the ECU.

In Porter page 171 diagrams 31 there is a wire that looks like it comes off the coil (14) far left marked Y. component 102 Y is the tachometer –Before I was looking for a yellow wire as it didn’t quite click Y is the tachometer wire.

This is the MK2 wire in porter page 171 diagrams 31.

6957MK2_rev_wire.jpg


This is the MK1 tachometer wire going into the coil porter page 159 Diagram 10.

6957MK1_rev_wire.jpg


I’d guess they are both green and both on the right hand side. I will use a close matched gage wire.

Perhaps it was my silly mistake thinking the needle should rest at 0 MPH – easy to fix – Best not try hitting a tone again LOL.

Cheers Chas!
 
Aha Louie!

Mine is a carburetor FIRE, whereas yours is an injection. Looks like the coils are different!

You've found the right information in the manuals though. One wire is all you need to have the luxury of a tachometer.

And Bianca has a tachometer too!

Don't forget as well that the FIRE red line is lower (I think) than on the OHC SX 1.3/ 1.4 engine, so don't go revving your engine to death! I recall that the FIRE red line is only about 5800. Not much point in going over 5000 rpm anyway, as the torque peak is way down at 2800 rpm and that's where you want to be most of the time. Gives good low down pull at those revs.

Speak later!

Chas
 
I had a thread earlier that covered the wiring for this, but I can´t seem to find it. I didn´t have the solution, but someone else had. Maybe someone is capable of finding it... :)

Morten.
 
Hi All,

Cheers Morten! I had a look, but nothing in Uno section tells me which of the 4 LT coil wires to connect to on Injection model.

I had a look through the Punto section, which for MK1 Punto they get half reading on rev counter. I also Looked through the Cinq/Sei sections, who have the same problem. They use
The younger modder said:
...
Light blue - Connect to the black/violet speed sensor wire from pin 23 from ecu from the fuel pump relay.
– I read it wrong and was looking for A light Blue wire :bang: Glad I didn’t bother messing with the wires round the ECU.

I tried the coil’s green wire – the one furthest right (NS). I soldered the other end onto the Pod’s circuit board.
695706.jpg


It Works!!!
695708.jpg


I didn’t need to drill as the new cable follows the root of the Speedo cable through the bulkhead.
695707.jpg



I put the Speedo pointer back to how it was, not it dose 40 MPH in second with the same engine sound :). Now I know I’ve been nowhere near redlining my Uno ;)

Its so much fun driving with a rev counter – after 9 years of Uno Driving – it just gets better.

Thanks for the help everyone – Chas checking the wiring after midnight is Crazy LOL. – rep on the way.

Regards All,
 
Noisy Tachometer.

Arrrrg – Sounds like Pinking :bang:

That’s the Rev Counter making the new clicking tinkling sound??? – Even with engine NOT under load :eek:

I forgot to look at the Electronics behind it – Is there anything I can do to Silence it – Surly they didn’t sound like this when New?

Regards All,
 
Re: Noisy Tachometer.

Louie Bee said:
Arrrrg – Sounds like Pinking :bang:

That’s the Rev Counter making the new clicking tinkling sound??? – Even with engine NOT under load :eek:

I forgot to look at the Electronics behind it – Is there anything I can do to Silence it – Surly they didn’t sound like this when New?

Regards All,

Ive got a pod tacho and that doesnt make a noise at all :confused:
 
Niose

Hi Luke,

Perhaps it was the lose Speedo cable. It fell out at Stockport, and I’d left the tools at home.

After I’d refitted it, I went out for a drive, I thought the rain was masking the noise. We’ll see soon LOL.
 
Re: Niose

Louie Bee said:
Hi Luke,

Perhaps it was the lose Speedo cable. It fell out at Stockport, and I’d left the tools at home.

After I’d refitted it, I went out for a drive, I thought the rain was masking the noise. We’ll see soon LOL.

Could do, but im pretty certain the tacho shouldnt make a noise in operation, well no one that can be heard over the engine at different rev ranges...
 
Hi All,

Just been out for a drive. The noise isn’t so bad today.

I found the Central locking brain had worked loose, so I tightened it and its better still. I think using the Speedo cable to pull through the new wire may have disturbed it, so Hopefully it will settle over time.

Regards All,
 
digging up an old thread!

louie, i know which end to connect up to under the bonnet, and i know which bit behind the clocks to attach to, but i dont know which EXACT pin to connect the wire to on the back of the clocks or how to attach it as i rather not solder a wire to the rear of the clocks?!?!??

Dunc
 
I used the soldering iron cos I couldn't buy 1 pin ;)

I seem to have a spare MK2 loom which is in bits, so I could cut a pin and some wire off for you :). this will clip into your connector plug.

I remember testing the clocks from the MK2 Turbo I broke and I'm 80% sure it's the same pin as the SX in the pic. I'm prity sure you can follow the track on the PCB from pin out to the back of the rev counter. that's how I worked it out :).

There is this link ere thingy I robbed from that other place

http://s282.photobucket.com/albums/kk259/kartmanz/Uno Turbo/Mk2 dash repair/

kartmanz :cool: link(y)

Looks like pin 1 on the 6 pin plug. Yer there are 2 6 pin plugh but one wil aleeady be taken by the Low fuel light. Both pin 6's should be filled already too :)
 
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so, looking on the back of the sx clocks picture u posted, it looks like u soldered the wire to the furthest right pin on 6 pin plug up the top yeah? hard to tell from that pic as its well blury! lol

yeah, i was thinking of using the proper block connector which connects to the back, but only using 1 pin (the one i need) and leave the rest blank if u know what i mean??

Dunc
 
yer one furthest right :).

Your base Uno will already use some of the pins on this plug IIR.

You can pop another pin into the space in the plug with a wire comming off it, but it's not a standard pin IIR. standard for MK2 Unos but not in every motor factors.

You blocked me on MSN :confused:
 
yer one furthest right :).

Your base Uno will already use some of the pins on this plug IIR.

You can pop another pin into the space in the plug with a wire comming off it, but it's not a standard pin IIR. standard for MK2 Unos but not in every motor factors.

You blocked me on MSN :confused:

nah not blocked u mate???

not got msn on this comp, im on dads comp hehe

cool, will have a look on the clocks! :) so i need to add an extra pin to the current plug that will already be there, correct?

Dunc
 
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