I was going to replace the control arm bushes on my 60s, but I couldn't find a big enough hammer to get the lower ball joint off!:bang:

So I bolted it back up again.

While doing this I noticed that the driveshaft r/f long shaft, does not appear to run perfectly true. Second, when the control arm what nearly off!, hanging by the balljoint, I noticed the driveshaft went in and out a long way. Is there any risk of it coming right out, what holds it in there when the suspension is all undone. I don't want to get myself up the creek with no paddle when I get back to this job.

Mind you, I am not sure it will fix my ratttles on rough road.

You might have a problem with the driveshaft inner joint - it deserves a check if the driveshaft is not running true (and if the shaft itself is not actually bent!) You need to drain the gearbox oil before removing the driveshaft. Then, the driveshaft joint comes out of the diff once the boot is removed. It's normal for the joint to move freely in and out (this allows the suspension to operate) but in certain circumstances (broken engine/gearbox mounting, or bent suspension) it can pop out completely!

The main check to make is on the joint itself - there are three needle roller bearings. I have seen these come apart and spill all the needles into the gearbox. That causes major vibrations as the shaft doesn't run true - probably much worse than you have, but it doesn't hurt to check it next time you're in that area.

Also, how do you go with splitting the lower balljoint? You can use a 'fork' splitter but that forks the rubber boot as well. I prefer the splitter tool shaped like a giant clothespeg with a bolt at one end. Supercheap Auto sold these at one point - otherwise they are difficult to get in NZ (I brought one home from England in a suitcase and Customs thought it was some kind of torture instrument...)

Supercheap also sell replacement balljoint boots - useful, but you need the smallest size.

I'm writing this on my iPhone at Johannesburg airport
I still have 200MB of data to use up!

Cheers,
-Alex

You do get around the globe!

I think I will give splitting the bottom baljoint another go on Monday if I don't have work. I think the local garage has a splitter I can use.

I think my gearbox needs new bearings, it is noisier than my earlier 70s with the same km on it.

rawill said:

You do get around the globe!

Click to expand...

I'm in Hong Kong now

I think my gearbox needs new bearings, it is noisier than my earlier 70s with the same km on it.

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Try filling it with Castrol VMX first - that ekes a bit more life out of the bearings. It's common to have a growling noise in low gears (input shaft bearing) but they seem to run for years in that condition. I also like the Nulon additive sold by Supercheap - it smooths the gearchanges a bit.

-Alex

Will do - thanks for the pointer.

Well I did that, changed the gearbox oil to your spec. It does appear to have made a slight difference, slightly quieter, and maybe the synchros work a bit better. I was worried I would break something trying to take the drain plug and fill plug out. They were very very tight. I 1/2 inch breaker bar, trying to tighten it a bit then loosen it and it moved. I hope copperslip helps stop it being so tight for next time. Mind you I probably might not have to do it again!