Tuning Sod more power, I want more fuel economy!!

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Tuning Sod more power, I want more fuel economy!!

Ucof

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So, seeing as there are so many threads around saying "How can I get more power or performance out of my small 1 litre engined car which wasn't designed to give out lots of power, but I wish to know how to do this anyway", I thought that I'd start a thread about how to get the best fuel economy.

After my last drive shaft mishap, I came to the conclusion that yes, I could zoom round, driving fast, foot to the floor everywhere, spending £150+ everytime I crash.....

or...

I could slow down, save money, be safer, not crash and generally stop being a "boy racer" (according to my girlfriend, which annoys me as I hate boy racers).

Every week I commute about 300 miles, and with a 32 litre tank, this equates to 9 miles per litre. Up until now, I would fill up the car on the Monday morning then drive to and from work along the motorway (motorway makes up about 25 miles) with my foot on the floor. getting there as quickly as possible, then it would get to Thursday evening and I would have to fill up again.

So in other words... how can I squeeze a extra day out of my fuel tank?


  • I've stuck, so far, to between 55 and 60 miles per hour as much as possible, and dipped the clutch whilst going downhill so the engine can return to idle and save some petrol.
  • I've been pulling off in second gear, with no steep acceleration at any points.
  • Sticking to all speed limits too!

....and um.. that's about it really.

What else can I do to make my driving more economical?
Is there anything I can do to the engine, short of watering down my petrol, in order to get these few extra miles?

Thanks all :)
 
Fit a vacuum gauge and try and drive with the needle in the green/ economy zone as much as possible. Some mk1 Unos came with one as standard (45S and 60S) but I don't think the mk2's ever had them? They are a great device, as I kept the one in my old 45S in the green zone for most of a trip to Manchester and back and was rewarded with 62mpg! :eek: (y)

Basically you want to keep the car in the highest gear without labouring the engine and use the lightest amount of throttle. You also want to try and keep the engine at it's peak torque (circa 2700 rpm) as that's where the engine is generally at its most efficient.

All other fuel economy tactics apply:

  • Keep tyres fully inflated
  • Keep weight to a minimum (remove any unneccessary items from the car)
  • Keep windows closed (reduces drag)
  • Don't accelerate hard
  • Change up gears as soon as possible - don't rev the engine high
  • Make sure car reaches operating temperature quickly (dodgy thermostats make them run cool)

BTW, a standard 1.0 Uno is economical in the first place!
 
Fit a vacuum gauge and try and drive with the needle in the green/ economy zone as much as possible. Some mk1 Unos came with one as standard (45S and 60S) but I don't think the mk2's ever had them? They are a great device, as I kept the one in my old 45S in the green zone for most of a trip to Manchester and back and was rewarded with 62mpg! :eek: (y)

Basically you want to keep the car in the highest gear without labouring the engine and use the lightest amount of throttle. You also want to try and keep the engine at it's peak torque (circa 2700 rpm) as that's where the engine is generally at its most efficient.

All other fuel economy tactics apply:

  • Keep tyres fully inflated
  • Keep weight to a minimum (remove any unneccessary items from the car)
  • Keep windows closed (reduces drag)
  • Don't accelerate hard
  • Change up gears as soon as possible - don't rev the engine high
  • Make sure car reaches operating temperature quickly (dodgy thermostats make them run cool)

BTW, a standard 1.0 Uno is economical in the first place!

That's good advice,

I also set 2 target speeds 5mph apart, no throttle when at the top value, and use as sparingly as possible when you hit the lower value to get it back to the top.

Rather than dipping the clutch going downhill just remove your foot from the throttle.

Others also suggest slipstreaming trucks, personally I'll pass on that, but I can see that it should work.


Trev
 
Thanks for the tips so far :)

This is the cheapest vacuum gauge with a green line I could find: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Performance-V...s_SM?hash=item3ca6680646&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14
I might have a flutter on it if it attracts no bids - I think the chrome will polish up nicely.

Tyres are all fully inflated thankfully and Im tempted to remove the rear seats and parcel shelf to reduce weight - I don't need to give anyone lifts in the back during the week so it would make sence.

I'm not so sure that I want to get rid of the alloys for the old original ones - I remember how much extra grip I got when I changed the wheels over - is it the weight of the wheels that does that? I assume it is, rather than the width!

As for the slipstreaming trucks, I've started to do that just so I don't shoot off at speed. It is so much easier to follow someone, than 'carve' your own way through, and it will also help me stick to the speed limit! :D

I dip the clutch completely to the floor, rather than just taking foot off the throttle, as that way I'm eliminating all possible engine friction, resulting in only being affected by the friction in the wheel bearings (and the air resistance, yes, I know :p ) - is this wrong?
 
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Thanks for the tips so far :)

This is the cheapest vacuum gauge with a green line I could find: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Performance-Vacuum-Gauge-Proops-0-to-30-Hg-50mm_W0QQitemZ260489872966QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item3ca6680646&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14
I might have a flutter on it if it attracts no bids - I think the chrome will polish up nicely.

Tyres are all fully inflated thankfully and Im tempted to remove the rear seats and parcel shelf to reduce weight - I don't need to give anyone lifts in the back during the week so it would make sence.

I'm not so sure that I want to get rid of the alloys for the old original ones - I remember how much extra grip I got when I changed the wheels over - is it the weight of the wheels that does that? I assume it is, rather than the width!

As for the slipstreaming trucks, I've started to do that just so I don't shoot off at speed. It is so much easier to follow someone, than 'carve' your own way through, and it will also help me stick to the speed limit! :D

I dip the clutch completely to the floor, rather than just taking foot off the throttle, as that way I'm eliminating all possible engine friction, resulting in only being affected by the friction in the wheel bearings (and the air resistance, yes, I know :p ) - is this wrong?

Firstly I think you will find that coasting (driving with the clutch depressed might be regarded as no being in full control of the vehicle in the eyes of your average policeman:eek:

Secondly when you have your foot off the throttle the injection system closes so no fuel is used.


Trev
 
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Yeah, costing indeed, but I'd like to see the policeman who has x-ray eyes to see through the door ;)

Surely, if the engine is still connected to the gearbox, engine braking would occur and slow you down quicker, thus making it sooner (and further away from your final destination) before you have to put your foot back on the accelerator? Or am I just missing something?
 
I agree about the coasting, but the Unos SPI setup still pulses fuel every other stroke when the idle switch is struck on the throttle body :)

It’s the tyres extra contact with the road that gives the extra grip, and friction.. Sure Chas or Alex explained that some time ago that the friction is bad for fuel econ. You won’t need that extra grip if your not zooming around on 2 wheels ;)
 
That's a good point about the 2 wheels! :D
Might be worth going back to steelies and pretty wheel covers!


Makes sense about the grip being friction which is bad for the economy - My only excuse is that it has been a long day! ;)
 
I agree with everything so far and am quietly thrilled that someone has come to realise that the 1L Uno is more about economy than 'exhibitionistic' driving (y) That is an actual word from a FIAT handbook...

Basically, any engine that has to work hard is not an economical engine. Remember the time that Jeremy Clarkson trailed a Prius around their track, Clarkson in the V8-powered M3 got better economy than the Prius, which proves that the Prius was working too hard (it was being driven flat-out).

Narrow tyres will help economy but I suggest 155/70, not 135... 155s are still biscuits by modern standards... you will have to expect less in terms of cornering grip, you trade that off for rolling resistance being less. I presume at the moment you have 185/60 13s. Obviously, while not wide by modern standards, that's quite a bit wider than original - I challenge whether wider is always better though. Sometimes, you can hardly tell the difference, especially if the 155/70s are really good ones (not made in China, not super-hard rubber). If you do fit narrower tyres, please take the car for a thrash around an industrial estate on a Sunday, etc., I'm not condoning breaking laws, but it's sensible to find out where the limits are, so you know them. Try some emergency stops and a few swerves - you don't have to be going very fast...

Steel wheels are more practical than alloys, in terms of maintenance and robustness (particularly when you keep kerbing them :p), and the Uno steel wheels are really light anyway. And, as a bonus, they seem to be worth about 5p.

Fuel consumption - I don't like this dipping the clutch business... dunno why, just doesn't seem right. There won't be much engine braking when rolling in fifth anyway, and with revs above about 1500 the fuel should be cut off (it won't be if you dip the clutch). Rolling down a long motorway hill in neutral would be illegal but there's no doubt you go further than you do in gear. I used to do it. :)

In practical figures - from your nine miles per litre, I make that 40.8mpg. When I get that in my 3 litre Alfa 164 in open-road conditions, that's pretty good - but you have a 1 litre engine and HALF the weight to haul around :eek: I reckon you can easily raise your average to 45mpg. There you go, the challenge is laid down :slayer:

Basically, fuel economy golden rules are not just about driving slowly, though driving slowly can be part of it - it's more about conserving momentum. Stopping and starting off again uses the most fuel.

- Never brake hard. Anticipate the need to slow down and get off the throttle early. Hopefully by the time you get there, the need to stop will have passed. If in a queue of traffic, hang back a bit so as to avoid the need to stop and start. People behind may be annoyed but screw them - they're going to be saving fuel too, as when you don't stop, they don't have to either ;)

- Actually, think of the brake pedal as using just as much fuel as the accelerator - because any time you're braking, you're losing momentum which will have to be built back up again. You can even use this as an excuse to go around corners a bit faster (avoiding the need to brake), which obviously has mixed messages. On the one hand, it can be safer not to be braking as much, but on the other hand, you obviously don't want to overdo the fast-cornering on your new biscuit tyres. SMOOTHNESS is key here. So, a common myth busted - a hesitant, jerky, slow driver is not an economical driver. A driver who has the same smoothness as a racing driver, is economical. There you go, suddenly the drive to work becomes as smooth and relaxing as driving on a race circuit... :)

- Move off with moderate acceleration, using the gears properly, though I sometimes skip a gear if accelerating especially gently. If you're stopped, I think you should always move off in 1st. If you're moving even slightly, then 2nd will be fine.

- Light accelerator pressure, should never be any need for more than 2/3rds throttle. Keep some power in reserve :p

- Use high gears to sustain speed, not to accelerate. i.e. get up to 30-40mph perhaps in 3rd, then shift to 5th and maintain that speed. Don't over-use 5th. A few extra revs do not matter all that much, whereas trying to accelerate in 5th is usually bad as the engine will be below its torque peak (efficiency peak). An accelerate-and-sustain approach seems to give better results than a constantly-accelerating-very-slowly-and-holding-everyone-up approach.

- Here's the bit that goes against the 'slow driving' myth. Build up speed on the flat or downhill - as fast as you dare - so that going uphill, you can let the speed taper off a bit. Obviously don't slow down to the point where you become a hazard to other drivers, but (especially if you happen to be in the left lane on a motorway) let it down to 60mph or so uphill. That uses much less fuel than stepping on the throttle to maintain 70mph going uphill.

- The difference in economy between 70mph and 60mph is probably greater than you think (maybe try and measure it sometime; brim-fill at a motorway services, do a steady 70mph to the next services, brim-fill again and calculate, then do the same (maybe another day ;)) but only do 60mph. In any case, there will be even more of a difference between 70mph and 80mph in a small-engined car. But, you do have to weigh all this against the time-saving. I suggest going with the flow, but if you get held up behind slower traffic, just take a few deep breaths (with window open if necessary) and think, well, at least I'm saving fuel :p

- Here's probably the biggest surprise: if you need to do 70mph continuously, consider a bigger-engined car. You'd be surprised to know that my 2L Alfa 156 is more economical than my 1.2L Punto when achieving an average speed of 93km/h in open-road (not motorway, not dual-carriageway) driving.

Just as you said, achieve economical driving and after a little while you realise that the longer following distances, decreased need for braking, decreased wheelspin at traffic lights :)rolleyes:), all give you longer to react to dangerous situations, so as well as saving fuel, you're a safer driver. And people notice when you're a smoother, more relaxed driver. It makes them feel more relaxed too. They might even fall asleep, which is a good sign :cool:

On the other hand I have been guilty of speeding on a deserted road at night, several times, to stay awake... Economy driving is all well and good on a regular basis, but sometimes, you do just have to put your foot down. We're all only human :eek:

-Alex
 
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They might even fall asleep, which is a good sign :cool:


Damn right - especially if they are asleep against the window - if you do a small swerve to the left, and then a big one to the right, you can smack their head against the window! :D
 
Haven't sseen one for sale, and I expect the insurance would be more too ;)


I had to fill up with petrol this morning :(
The low warning light came on last night as I was coming home.

So I filled up this morning and ragged it in (down the motorway at 6am). Petrol doesn't seem to have gone down much.

Could it be because I have been going down the hills much faster, whereas when driving at 55-60 earlier, I wasn't able to build up enough speed to help with the climb up the hill?

Anyway, heading to London this weekend so will be picking a few bits up from the spares and repairs, and will also pick up the smaller tyres to try out for a bit.

House is starting to look like a spare parts storagfe facility.
Girlfriend not happy. :D
 
House is starting to look like a spare parts storagfe facility.
Girlfriend not happy. :D

Ah well a couple of choices, get a shed to hide the bits in, or easier maybe
get a girlfriend who doesn't mind, or like I do, though mine is a wife.
Don't listen!

I must take the car parts out of our lounge and bedroom.
 
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It doesn't at all.


Partly as I had already had to fill up the car, it was impossible for me to go for the week on one tank.
Also, as I was late, I speed up today.

Will get thinner wheels this weekend and fill up on Monday ready to try again.

:)
 
If you check the official fuel consumption figures, the 1300DS UK version of the diesel Uno (non turbo) is barely any more economical, and in fact is less economical in most incidences, than the 1.0 petrol and no-where near as nice to drive. It's heavier and noisier too. However, if you could get hold of the European turbodiesel version that one is more economical, more powerful and quicker. I wonder why they never offered it in the UK? :confused:
 
I often snuggle up to a spare exhaust manifold to goto sleep.

:(

LOL, try an Uno back seat instead, makes a nice cushion in bed especially if you take the metal bit off.

Only joking, I haven't tried that :D

But I must confess that occasionally I go out to my 164 late at night and sit in it, and listen to the stereo. It's like having a second lounge. This is the one in the garage that's awaiting a clutch change and cambelt replacement. (The one outside on axle stands that needs the strut rebuild, starter motor replacement, and work on the brakes doesn't have a stereo - yet).

1.7 non-turbo diesel Uno is about the equivalent of an Uno 60 and is much better than the 1.3 non-turbo diesel Uno. Haven't seen either model in NZ, ever. 1.3 turbo diesel Uno is probably the best but getting old now, probably better to buy a JTD Punto Mk2 instead...?

Generally speaking it's not worth changing cars to save fuel, in economic terms, but I guess you have to do the sums (i.e. if you were driving an old Rover V8 then it probably would be worth driving an old Uno instead ;))

-Alex
 
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Small changes in the way you drive make a big difference. The other half ruins my little game (miles per tank) with her style of driving; she doesn't get there any quicker, or drive 'faster'...

I get on average 630 miles from my 2000 reg passat estate tdi before the fuel light, and i drive with the traffic, no slower.

My old 60ds would return 450miles pre light IIRC, but thats a long time ago now - i remember it being so gutless!!

My uno t on the other hand... eek!!!

Tom
 
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