got an issue with the 1.0 IE

as per title won't start when hot.

My MK2 will start really well, run all day, never stalls (well hardly ever ) apart from if it's been at running temp and I stop for say 5 - 10 mins then try and restart. it refuses to start till it's cooled down.

I assumed its the ECU on the distributor, so I swapped it for a spare, along with the pickup.

Car started no probs, run well, restarted when hot, but after about 5 mins...


refused to start till cooled off .

Before I start swapping the entire engine bit by bit to another 999cc, has anyone any ideas? .

Cheers,
Louie.

Can we have some more clues

When it won't restart, does it have sparks at the plugs?

If so, then we have to assume that it's a fuel pump problem, could be something bizarre like the way the fuel pump is supposed to cut off when the engine stalls. I think the oil pressure switch is one of the inputs - is everything else (such as the oil pressure warning light) functioning normally?Perhaps the fuel pump relay is faulty - I don't know on the Mk2 exactly what controls the fuel pump, so I have no ideas for now

-Alex

If it sounds like a dead battery then it could be too advanced ignition timing.

i have exactly the same problem right now, and it's because of the electric valve in the carburator - its not working well when hot

Ignition module at distributor 99%

http://www.made-in-china.com/image/2f0j00TMKQkVIFhaWSM/Ignition-Module-XM640-.jpg

Louie, check the earth points for the ignition module and the distributor connections. I seem to recall other people fitting new modules and still getting issues, which turned out to be poor earth connections. As the engine heats up the earths lose their conductivity because the heat increases electrical resistance (I think this is the case. ALEX, HELP! I'm not an electronics expert!)

If what I've written above is correct, then this would explain the symptoms you are getting. It would also explain why fitting a new module has not improved the hot starting isssue. So check/ clean all the earth points and hopefully that might improve matters.

Thanks for the help Guys!

Uno driver, I've already changed that as it was my first suspicions too . That leaves us 1%.. Hmm so many things .

Chas I remember too now.. It was Peterg and it was me who sold him my known good spare which he fitted and had the problem still. and it was fixed by cleaning the earths.

Though I thought he was stalling where I am not. well worth a try though

liorwohl, is it the injection 999cc Uno you have as my next swap was going to be my spare throttle body (card) setup.

Louie Bee said:

liorwohl, is it the injection 999cc Uno you have as my next swap was going to be my spare throttle body (card) setup.

Click to expand...

no, mine dont have fuel injection, just good old carburetor

Sorry I didn't see that.

Do you hear the fuel pump when car doesn't want to start?

Uno driver, yer I can hear the pump prime before I energise the starter .

Had a seized pump a number of months ago and would not start hot or cold . I'm using the same pump, just reversed the polarity to clear it .

Oh jjhepburn, it don't sound like a flat battery .

While its hard to say exacty what could be causing it at the moment, what might help diagnose it is if you take off the air filter so you can see into the throttle body. Once you've done this get someone else to turn it over when its hot and not starting and look to see if there is fuel being injected onto the gold coloured aperture.

If there is then i'd check theres definately a spark otherwise it'll mean its probably overfuelling and may be a defective coolant temperature sensor.

If there's no fuel coming through, doubtful it will be blockages or a broken fuel pump as it wouldn't just affect it when hot, so it may be the module on the distributor or the lambda sensor. Just coz you changed the module for a different one doesn't necessarily mean that ones not shot as well, or may be a lose connection to it.

Is there any power loss at all and does it ever run out, ie revs get lower til it stops?

Ali

jjhepburn said:

If it sounds like a dead battery then it could be too advanced ignition timing.

Click to expand...

hi jj,

i think my ignition timing is too far advanced, could you explain what happens (ive just removed my battery to charge it as it sounds like its dead)

so as not to clog louie B's thread if you could ahve a look at mine that would be sound (how cheeky is that lol )

Oi get off my thread RSF!!

Thanks for the tips Ali, I will do that next time it occurs!

However my Uno has developed a noise at low revs.

I first thought it was the clutch but as I replaced it last year, and the noise occurs with it in or out I ruled it out.

I then thought cam belt (again).

Looking in the bay it soon became apparent it's coming from around the Distributor area .

Will try another distributor distributor / cap / rotor arm and if no better it may be time to put the spare 999cc engine in :devil:

Right

Odd noise off the dizzy I think was down to me using a different base plate for the pickup sensor. When I screwed it down I didn’t realise there was margin for error and wrongly adjusted it (takes me back to the 903cc Uno with mechanical points).

So I’ve rebuilt my old distributor and noticed a lot of corrosion on the pins and plugs to the ECU on both.. grate I thought and gave the old one a good clean up.

Reassembled, cleaned all the earth contacts ect. Refitted and car starts and ring good. Went for a drive and no odd noise

Came home and car started after 5 mins no problem. But after 10 more mins No start again!!

This time I checked for spark.. A lot easier in the dark!! YES we have spark!! No we don’t have Bang. So Distributor not at fault then?

The Fule pump is bizzy buzzing as normal, and still no start after removing the Air filter (Just to rule it out). Hmm what to try next :bang:

Oh I’ve had no power loss, nor “run out”. I did have the engine very hot last year (just below the red) when the fan temp switch stopped working. I noticed it in good time and saved the head from warping.

Maybe the coolant sensor took some damage. It’s the one on the back face of the head kind of between the oil filler and the distributor isn’t it?

With no connector on this sensor the in car temp guage stops working.

I’ve just change that for the spare so let’s see…

well started after 5 mins and ran

After another 10 mins, started, then died after hitting 1K revs :bang: :bang:

There are two temperature sensors. One is for ECU (at inlet manifold) and one for temp guage (above alternator).

Oh it looks much the same as the one from the Uno Turbo.

I've swapped this over and all seemed sweet.

but after 15 mins cooling time.. again the engine started and cut out .

This time I tried starting the car after disconnecting various plugs and noticed if you remove the multi plug on the right of the throttle body (as you look in the bay) the car will fire, but not run.

I'm going to try swapping the air temp sensor inside the throttle body now I think.

Wish me luck!!

Sigh* lost Louie to the garage again
Poor Uno hope you can save her, she so naughty:bang:

As I couldn't remove wheat I thought is the air temp sensor - the round goldy bit infront of the injector, I ended up swaping the whole throttle body.



So I tried a spare ECU (the big ine in cab)

I've noticed when the car won't start if I swap the temp sensor over for the spare, but leave it hanging, the car starts, runs no problem. but as soon as it's swapped back to the one in the head .

I've found thet the ones un the Uno turbo thermostat housing have the same Bosch part number, so I'm going to try that next. Then if still no better a spare lambada sensor :idea:

Then if no better, I may be driving a Red Cinq SX till my UT is finished Ah Emma

Multiplug at right side of TB is only for throtle position potentiometer. For air temp sensor and injector there is multiplug at left side of TB.

I think you might have problems with fuel pump (not making enough pressure). Disconnect fuel return hose at TB and check if fuel is coming from TB when engine is hot.