Likewise. I'm sure Pandas and Unos aren't too diferent mechanically.
General The RSF Uno roadracer project!
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General The RSF Uno roadracer project!
randomspeedfreak
New member
any ideas people? :idea:
Did you check the earth. If no resultconsult a haynes manual. usually answers majority of problems. Perhaps a wire has been stripped and is shorting somewhere in the dash.
randomspeedfreak
New member
right im going to try to keep all my car posts in here so the links to the other threads of mine are here, and ill post here from now on lol
(sorry mods!
)
https://www.fiatforum.com/uno/182897-electrical-heeeellllllpppp-2.html?p=2036143
https://www.fiatforum.com/uno/189329-bob-weight-springs.html
as per threads i think the ignition is too advanced, possibly due to me stretching the bob springs.....
target for mot and on the road is the 29th april as thats when F617 SBL turns 20!
(sorry mods!
)https://www.fiatforum.com/uno/182897-electrical-heeeellllllpppp-2.html?p=2036143
https://www.fiatforum.com/uno/189329-bob-weight-springs.html
as per threads i think the ignition is too advanced, possibly due to me stretching the bob springs.....
target for mot and on the road is the 29th april as thats when F617 SBL turns 20!
You got it registered!?
randomspeedfreak
New member
waiting for the V5 to come back!
The reason a car sounds like it has a flat battery when the ignition is too advanced is that the spark happens too early. This causes the full force of the combustion to happen before top dead centre. This means that the explosion is trying to make the engine go backwards rather than helping it turn forwards. This causes it to fight against the starter motor, which means the engine doesn't turn over properly, so it sounds like a flat battery.
You can get a similar result by running bad fuel or fuel that has too low an octane rating. This is because low octane fuel explodes faster. This is why you advance the timing if you are running high octane fuel.
This problem is often more noticeably when the engine is hot because the fuel is more ready to explode in a hot engine.
Also if there is lots of carbon buildup in the cylinder you can get dieseling which means the fuel starts to explode before the spark happens. This is often accompanied by the engine running on (if it doesnt have a fuel cut off valve) this is where the engine keeps running after the ignition is turned off.
When setting your timing make sure you have removed and plugged the vacuum pipe.
You can get a similar result by running bad fuel or fuel that has too low an octane rating. This is because low octane fuel explodes faster. This is why you advance the timing if you are running high octane fuel.
This problem is often more noticeably when the engine is hot because the fuel is more ready to explode in a hot engine.
Also if there is lots of carbon buildup in the cylinder you can get dieseling which means the fuel starts to explode before the spark happens. This is often accompanied by the engine running on (if it doesnt have a fuel cut off valve) this is where the engine keeps running after the ignition is turned off.
When setting your timing make sure you have removed and plugged the vacuum pipe.
randomspeedfreak
New member
HACHAAAAAA!!
suck on this update
Ive spent DAYSmaking all the electrics work (the first time ever since we have had this car! :roll: ) in the end it was some dogey wires that i replaced, a new circuit wired in, 2 rusty earths and a VERY dogey fusebox that i replaced.
I got it to run :
http://www.facebook.com/inbox/?ref=mb#/video/video.php?v=69358295855 (can u see that?)
but then for some reason the optical sensor for the lumenition decided to bust its self.
I got a new on (£90!) and fitted it, wired it, timed it all up
but it still wont idle - i think because I bent one of the bob weight springs (they control rpm related advance on a carbed engine)
the bottom one is bent:
so im on a hunt for some of them now (think yourself lucky you dont have to do the same!)
I want to get the whole car yellow, so i took the bumper off and began spraying over it in primer - I hadn't researched it properly and it turned out completely ****.
I was using paint from a can, and in the wrong conditions so its a total mess - Im going to strip it off and have a go when i get my proper spray gun sorted.
I defo prefer it with a black grill:
To have a go at the electrics i had to remove the dash (not so easy with a roll cage in the way) so i thought **** it, screw the dash, and chopped it.
i have no regrets as i think it looks really jokes! and it ill be much easier to sort electrics if they go wrong.(and its a bit lighter lol)
The headlights were really cack and rusty so i bought some new ones to go in there (thanks fiatunoturbo1) i think they look loads better.
They also wernt working, it was the bulbs, so I got some new ones that are 80/100w -big mistake! they are too much for the unos wiring and full beam heats the wires up big time... I think ill go to 70w and do the relay mod from alex
They are brighter tho - 100w on the right 60w on the left
Ive got the 'interior' back together and the roll cage in,
ive also refurbed the rear springs off my uno turbo, to stop this car killing me (it has a mental rear end, because the rear springs are SOOO hard, these are a bit softer )
Ive got some rust free doors: (thanks wayne)
and some brand new sills (!) (thanks ebay)
to go on when i get my spray gun sorted, and nick my dads welder
whilst admiring how rusty the underside is :banghead )
I randomly found an aluminum fuel cell! worth probs £300 which is good.
(you can just see it behind the exhaust)
shame its only 20ltrs capacity! :shock: :banghead not gunna be fun when its a road car eh?
prittied the engine bay up a bit:
started to patch the current sills to get through MOT:
treated the rust:
got some P40 on 'em:
that will need sanding sown and finishing off with p38, just to get through this mot
now i just need to
New windscreen,
ajust handbrake,
non-death rear springs on,
get it to idle better,
possibly new tyres?
finish patching up current sills
side repeater bulbs
change V5 + vin plate
then MOT time
ive hopefully got some new wheels coming at the end of the month - what do you think of these baby's ! -
dont like this windscreen based rust:
where do we think the kill switch should go peeps?
thats all for now folks
suck on this update
Ive spent DAYSmaking all the electrics work (the first time ever since we have had this car! :roll: ) in the end it was some dogey wires that i replaced, a new circuit wired in, 2 rusty earths and a VERY dogey fusebox that i replaced.
I got it to run :
http://www.facebook.com/inbox/?ref=mb#/video/video.php?v=69358295855 (can u see that?)
but then for some reason the optical sensor for the lumenition decided to bust its self.
I got a new on (£90!) and fitted it, wired it, timed it all up
but it still wont idle - i think because I bent one of the bob weight springs (they control rpm related advance on a carbed engine)
the bottom one is bent:
so im on a hunt for some of them now (think yourself lucky you dont have to do the same!)
I want to get the whole car yellow, so i took the bumper off and began spraying over it in primer - I hadn't researched it properly and it turned out completely ****.
I was using paint from a can, and in the wrong conditions so its a total mess - Im going to strip it off and have a go when i get my proper spray gun sorted.
I defo prefer it with a black grill:
To have a go at the electrics i had to remove the dash (not so easy with a roll cage in the way) so i thought **** it, screw the dash, and chopped it.
i have no regrets as i think it looks really jokes! and it ill be much easier to sort electrics if they go wrong.(and its a bit lighter lol)
The headlights were really cack and rusty so i bought some new ones to go in there (thanks fiatunoturbo1) i think they look loads better.
They also wernt working, it was the bulbs, so I got some new ones that are 80/100w -big mistake! they are too much for the unos wiring and full beam heats the wires up big time... I think ill go to 70w and do the relay mod from alex
They are brighter tho - 100w on the right 60w on the left
Ive got the 'interior' back together and the roll cage in,
ive also refurbed the rear springs off my uno turbo, to stop this car killing me (it has a mental rear end, because the rear springs are SOOO hard, these are a bit softer
)Ive got some rust free doors: (thanks wayne)
and some brand new sills (!) (thanks ebay)
to go on when i get my spray gun sorted, and nick my dads welder
whilst admiring how rusty the underside is :banghead )
I randomly found an aluminum fuel cell! worth probs £300 which is good.
(you can just see it behind the exhaust)
shame its only 20ltrs capacity! :shock:
:banghead not gunna be fun when its a road car eh?prittied the engine bay up a bit:
started to patch the current sills to get through MOT:
treated the rust:
got some P40 on 'em:
that will need sanding sown and finishing off with p38, just to get through this mot
now i just need to
New windscreen,
ajust handbrake,
non-death rear springs on,
get it to idle better,
possibly new tyres?
finish patching up current sills
side repeater bulbs
change V5 + vin plate
then MOT time
ive hopefully got some new wheels coming at the end of the month - what do you think of these baby's ! -
dont like this windscreen based rust:
where do we think the kill switch should go peeps?
thats all for now folks
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randomspeedfreak
New member
Wheels look nice Matt, but!! they're five stud.. and Fiat are 4 stud hubs... unless you have differnet ones?
randomspeedfreak
New member
sorry i should have mentioned that lol, im having alloy spacers with studs in made up to that bolt pattern - im sick of this stupid fiat bolt pattern :yuck:
ha, yeah it is a bit annoying. not even alfa have it now.
Loving the pictures Matt It's a cool looking project and I look forward to seeing more progress!
I have to say though that I went when I saw you taking a hacksaw to the dashboard! Is there no way you could get it out without cutting it? It's quite flexible and pulls UP from the mountings so you may just have been able to squeeze it past the roll cage. Talking of which, is the the roll cage bolted or welded in? If bolted you might have been able to unbolt it and move it back a bit just to get the dashboard out.
In case you're wondering I love the mk1 dashboard so if the RSF car were mine I'd do everything to keep it in one piece! Bit late now though as you've cut yours out, but there should be a few available from broken up mk1s if you ever want to put one back as it's one of the few bits of a Uno that won't rust
As for wheels, there are loads of cool wheels available in 98 PCD. You also had those gorgeous Cromodora wheels fitted if I remember rightly - what happend to them?
Hurry up and finish your exams and get cracking on this little racer
It's a cool looking project and I look forward to seeing more progress!I have to say though that I went
when I saw you taking a hacksaw to the dashboard! Is there no way you could get it out without cutting it? It's quite flexible and pulls UP from the mountings so you may just have been able to squeeze it past the roll cage. Talking of which, is the the roll cage bolted or welded in? If bolted you might have been able to unbolt it and move it back a bit just to get the dashboard out.In case you're wondering I love the mk1 dashboard so if the RSF car were mine I'd do everything to keep it in one piece! Bit late now though as you've cut yours out, but there should be a few available from broken up mk1s if you ever want to put one back as it's one of the few bits of a Uno that won't rust
As for wheels, there are loads of cool wheels available in 98 PCD. You also had those gorgeous Cromodora wheels fitted if I remember rightly - what happend to them?
Hurry up and finish your exams and get cracking on this little racer
first of all, nice project
if you got an electrical pump, that would flood the carb with gas, and that would mean that the car wouyld need much revs and air to at least run, and it would go spitting and misfireing because of all the fuel. the pressure in the fuel system of a car with a carb (after the mecanical pump) is about 0,2 - 0,3 bar.
the 1301 ccm with a 30/32 dmt weber carb has a manual choke. and no, it would ot cause a misfire, but it would help the engine run on lover revvs when cold. it could actully help to drive the car for a while, some problemes with engines can come from just the driver doesn't drive the car hard enough.
the condenser is sort of a battery, which is connected in parallel with the points (?) and the only thing it does is to make sure that when the points open the circuit is broken instantly. because these things happen really fast, as an example, when a four sylinder engine has 3000 revvs, there is 6000 sparks per minute, that means 100 sparks in a second
so the condenser is only helping the points breaking the primary circuit in the coil instantly.
hope you understood what I ment, a little hard to find the right expressions since I'm a norwegian
Sorum91
if you got an electrical pump, that would flood the carb with gas, and that would mean that the car wouyld need much revs and air to at least run, and it would go spitting and misfireing because of all the fuel. the pressure in the fuel system of a car with a carb (after the mecanical pump) is about 0,2 - 0,3 bar.
cheers louie,
dunno if its got a choke actually should ahve checked lol
yeah distributor is on the list of things to check when i next see it...
the 1301 ccm with a 30/32 dmt weber carb has a manual choke. and no, it would ot cause a misfire, but it would help the engine run on lover revvs when cold. it could actully help to drive the car for a while, some problemes with engines can come from just the driver doesn't drive the car hard enough.
Sorry RSF I missed your reply till now
Who said Condenser cam?
I said a condenser can...
Usually when toy have manual points, these is a capacitor (Known as a condenser) which (I think) helps give a better spark. The two are usuely replaced at the same time. I have had a failed condenser back in my poor student days which took ages to work out!
Where’s Chas been?
ECU or Points?
the condenser is sort of a battery, which is connected in parallel with the points (?) and the only thing it does is to make sure that when the points open the circuit is broken instantly. because these things happen really fast, as an example, when a four sylinder engine has 3000 revvs, there is 6000 sparks per minute, that means 100 sparks in a second
so the condenser is only helping the points breaking the primary circuit in the coil instantly.
hope you understood what I ment, a little hard to find the right expressions since I'm a norwegian
Sorum91
randomspeedfreak
New member
few! glad i got some posts, it was getting a bit lonely in here!
Thanks Chasmiester!
i though someone would have that reaction - notice i too the hacksaw pics first person - texas chainsaw massacre style
dont worry its not a hartley wintney dashboard massacre (sorry couldn't resist)
on many occasions ive had long and bitter fights with uno dashboards (i just cant seem to get the nack)
i quite like it without, it saves (some) weight () and i do have a spare from my (dead) uno turbo if i ever get the need to change back.
its a bolt in cage,it totally stops you from getting the dash out...not many people (including myself until 2 weeks ago)realise that bolt in cages are also total bastards to remove! firstly to get enough room to get the front bars in, the back ones have to move back....to do this they cut a hole in the front of the rear wheel arch and drop it through,!!
when the fronts are connected to the back/overhead hoop -they slip a plate where the wheel arch was and weld it up before bolting it down!
(sorry if you cant imagine that - its hard to explain! i think some pics are required)
also a few bolts are totally inacessable! - at least you know what your up against if you have a weld in!
i am VERY picky with my wheels and the wheels on the alst page tick all the boxes and still work out cheaper (having spacers made up aswell) than a set of superleggeras in 4 x 98 which would be my next choice :slayer:
'those' chromodoras :yuck: are still on the car unfortunately for me :yuck::yuck: i think i will sell them as soon as i get through the mot :idea:
i have 7 exams left - but i think i can sneak a cheeky uno session or 2 in week after next as i have a space in my revision
thanks mate
the fuel pump has a pressure limiter after it, and i think it is set up to have a by pass valve at a certain pressure - whatever it is it was set up by wolf direct racing who know their **** backwards, upside down and asleep - so i trust them.
The choke has been completely removed off this car - being a racer i guess they just had no use for it..
thats for the explination but i looked it up after louie said what it was, now i know...and dont worry your explination (and english!) is very good
yeah im getting rid of the 100w bulbs - they are WAAAAY too much hassle, and totally the wrong way to go for the uno if your looking for brighter lights
cheers guys
Loving the pictures Matt
I have to say though that I went
In case you're wondering I love the mk1 dashboard so if the RSF car were mine I'd do everything to keep it in one piece! Bit late now though as you've cut yours out, but there should be a few available from broken up mk1s if you ever want to put one back as it's one of the few bits of a Uno that won't rust
As for wheels, there are loads of cool wheels available in 98 PCD. You also had those gorgeous Cromodora wheels fitted if I remember rightly - what happend to them?
Hurry up and finish your exams and get cracking on this little racer
Thanks Chasmiester!
i though someone would have that reaction - notice i too the hacksaw pics first person - texas chainsaw massacre style
dont worry its not a hartley wintney dashboard massacre (sorry couldn't resist)
on many occasions ive had long and bitter fights with uno dashboards (i just cant seem to get the nack)
i quite like it without, it saves (some) weight (
) and i do have a spare from my (dead) uno turbo if i ever get the need to change back.its a bolt in cage,it totally stops you from getting the dash out...not many people (including myself until 2 weeks ago
)realise that bolt in cages are also total bastards to remove! firstly to get enough room to get the front bars in, the back ones have to move back....to do this they cut a hole in the front of the rear wheel arch and drop it through,!!when the fronts are connected to the back/overhead hoop -they slip a plate where the wheel arch was and weld it up before bolting it down!
(sorry if you cant imagine that - its hard to explain! i think some pics are required
)also a few bolts are totally inacessable! - at least you know what your up against if you have a weld in!
i am VERY picky with my wheels and the wheels on the alst page tick all the boxes and still work out cheaper (having spacers made up aswell) than a set of superleggeras in 4 x 98 which would be my next choice :slayer:
'those' chromodoras :yuck: are still on the car unfortunately for me :yuck::yuck: i think i will sell them as soon as i get through the mot :idea:
i have 7 exams left - but i think i can sneak a cheeky uno session or 2 in week after next as i have a space in my revision
first of all, nice project
if you got an electrical pump, that would flood the carb with gas, and that would mean that the car wouyld need much revs and air to at least run, and it would go spitting and misfireing because of all the fuel. the pressure in the fuel system of a car with a carb (after the mecanical pump) is about 0,2 - 0,3 bar.
the 1301 ccm with a 30/32 dmt weber carb has a manual choke. and no, it would ot cause a misfire, but it would help the engine run on lover revvs when cold. it could actully help to drive the car for a while, some problemes with engines can come from just the driver doesn't drive the car hard enough.
the condenser is sort of a battery, which is connected in parallel with the points (?) and the only thing it does is to make sure that when the points open the circuit is broken instantly. because these things happen really fast, as an example, when a four sylinder engine has 3000 revvs, there is 6000 sparks per minute, that means 100 sparks in a second
so the condenser is only helping the points breaking the primary circuit in the coil instantly.
hope you understood what I ment, a little hard to find the right expressions since I'm a norwegian
Sorum91
oops, seeems I a little bit to tired, didn't see the other pages
and be a bit carefull with too strong bulbs, a 100w would melt the reflectors since the are made of plastic
thanks mate
the fuel pump has a pressure limiter after it, and i think it is set up to have a by pass valve at a certain pressure - whatever it is it was set up by wolf direct racing who know their **** backwards, upside down and asleep - so i trust them.
The choke has been completely removed off this car - being a racer i guess they just had no use for it..
thats for the explination but i looked it up after louie said what it was, now i know...and dont worry your explination (and english!) is very good
yeah im getting rid of the 100w bulbs - they are WAAAAY too much hassle, and totally the wrong way to go for the uno if your looking for brighter lights
cheers guys
few! glad i got some posts, it was getting a bit lonely in here!
thanks mate
the fuel pump has a pressure limiter after it, and i think it is set up to have a by pass valve at a certain pressure - whatever it is it was set up by wolf direct racing who know their **** backwards, upside down and asleep - so i trust them.
The choke has been completely removed off this car - being a racer i guess they just had no use for it..
thats for the explination but i looked it up after louie said what it was, now i know...and dont worry your explination (and english!) is very good
yeah im getting rid of the 100w bulbs - they are WAAAAY too much hassle, and totally the wrong way to go for the uno if your looking for brighter lights
cheers guys
well, thats good
ok, I can understand that a racer don't need a choke
thanks
I try my bestyep, I know, been there myself
you should try out "blue bulbs" 55/60W light blue, they give an extremly white light and are working perfect on my SX but I also got a Hella Grille (heres my thread with some pics: https://www.fiatforum.com/uno/154248-my-mk1-uno-sx.html ) the two extra lamps really help when it`s dark and snow here
looking forward to see how it goes
Sorum91
wouldn't it be twice that many sparks as all 4 cylinders fire each cycle of the crank
Its a good project im subscribed what you doing about the rust? getting some welding kit?
what you doing about the rust? getting some welding kit?wouldn't it be twice that many sparks as all 4 cylinders fire each cycle of the crank
no, bacause you have 1 spark every 180 degrees, first on the 1. sylinder, then the crank turn 180 degrees and the second spark comes on the 3. sylinder, then the crank turn another 180 degrees and the 3 spark comes on sylinder 4, then another 180 degrees and and spar 4 on sylinder 2. then another 180 degrees and we are back at nr. 1
thats the ignition sequence 1-3-4-2
and there is only one spark on (for example) sylinder one until the crank does two full rounds aka 720 degress.
so when the crank does two runds, there are 4 sparks
it got a little complicated
