Picked up the "new" (to me) car this evening.
It's a 1990 Uno 60 S 1108cc one. I dunno if it being entirely mechanical (no ECU etc. - I think I'm right) is a good thing or not. It makes it seem much easier to do work on it, but then probably bad 'cos I'd need more of a clue about what's actually going on
I think I'll probably get a nicer feeling when it's running sound(er)...

It's raining and dark so haven't played with it much, but had a good look when I was there. I'll take some photos when it clears up at the weekend (if it ever does!).

It goes and it stops, which is the main thing. A few things will need doing (from initial thoughts).

Main thing I'm currently annoyed about is the clutch. It's very "sticky". Basically, I put it in 1st and attempt to slowly lift off the pedal, but it just sticks and then all of a sudden and flys straight up - jerk, bang and it's stalled.
The previous owner had a log that it had a new clutch 10k miles ago (2 years ago). The car had also been idle for about 2 months in their garage, so I suspect it may be the clutch cable? Haynes Uno manual says it's self adjusting though, so what do I do? Just run it in a bit?

It idle's a bit rough and kinda needs the choke just slightly out (but not enough for the dash light to come on). I read in its handbook that a idle speed valve or something needs adjusting? I'm just thinking though, as it's entirely mechanical, if I should take it to a garage for them to check all the valves, clearances, cam, head etc. jus for piece of mind that that side is all "set". What do you think? Am I worrying too much?

The rear windscreen washer fluid doesn't come out. What's it likely to be? Is it a common issue? The front's fine so I guess there is enough fluid?
Love the single wash wiper idea! Just brilliant!

Gonna do the usual filters and plugs change soon. I think maybe the distributor and leads too, but I've never done that before. Good idea? And is it straight forward?
Any other things as a routine first time owner service?

Driver's side rear light cover/cluster will need changed as it's cracked. One of the bulbs doesn't work either so I guess it'll be two things sorted in one go. Straight forward to change the cluster or cover (whichever is required)? The worst would be water leaking through and screwing with the electrics. Is that likely to happen?

Also, two things I always want to know...

What grade oil?

What tyre pressures?

I hope the Uno serves me well!!

Hei. I've got the injection 1108 so I don't have an idle adjuster nor choke. The thing controls itself somewhat.

I think your clutch might be stuck. Read some other posts on the forum (search) and try to find the answer there. As I haven't experienced this, it would just be guessing.

Don't worry about valves etc....

Do you hear the washer fluid engine run when you try to squirt on the rear window? There are two containers under the hood. One is very visible and one is not. There is a big tank just above the dash - filler on left side. On mine it goes to the front lights - don't know what container delivering to the rear. Have to check myself, but if you see two motors under the visible one, one is fron and one is rear. It might either be clogged, broken, or the hose is damaged. Mine cracked around the hatch, making all fluid spray on the parcel shelf - very significant smell...

Don't need to change the distributor, but cap, rotor, plugs and HT leads are a good start. Check if a K&N filter fits. On my SPi part RD6020/RD6000 fits perfectly.

Water doesn't damage much at the rear lights. To remove the cover use a flat screwdriver to praise down some plastic "things". You'll see them on top and bottom of the cover. Try to remove the damaged bulb, rub it a bit, and check the holder. It might be a weak contact.

Most things are straight forward on this car. I started with 0 experiene too.

Morten.

Thanks very much for your reply.

The car's been with my mechanic for the past week. Was meant to be just for a MOT, but I think the bill will be for about £700+ now. Some is wear and tear items (full service incl. cap and leads, brakes, tyres, timing belt, wipers, bulbs). Non-routine maintenance stuff:

Inlet manifold had a leak - fixed.
Brakes master cylinder leaking - fixed.
Transmission fluid leak through driver's side driveshaft - fixed with new bearings or something.

I pick the car up on Wednesday after he's tunned the carb, but I've got the MOT and tax so that part is sorted. I just hope the above unfortunate costs are the only ones for at least a year. It's low milage too (53k), so no reason why it can't last a few more.

I'll look at the rear washer issue when I get back.

I think it also might need a new regulator on the driver's side "keep-fit" window. Any ideas what that's all about?

Cheers,

Hei.

Forgot to mention a couple of things.

What grade oil?

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Use semi-synthetic. Not fully synthetic. Can´t tell the difference by thecontainers? Mineral oil is very cheap. Synthetic is expensive. Semi-synthetic is in the middle, and perfect for a 10-15 year old engine. The fully synthetic oil is thinner and your engine might "sweat" som oil around the gaskets, distributor etc. Always change oil filter when changing oil (not on topping up).

What tyre pressures?

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I really don´t know. I´ve got H-rated tires which need higher pressure than the original tyres. They originally should be 2,1 (I think) but I´ve got 2,5. I don´t know what IS standard (lbs / mm3 / kPa etc.) I just remember the number... Check the handbook in your glove compartment, or someone else might know.

I think it also might need a new regulator on the driver's side "keep-fit" window. Any ideas what that's all about?

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I don´t even know what you´re talking about. I´m Norwegian. What´s a regulator? And what´s the "keep-fit" window?

Morten.

"keep-fit" window is the manual type window. Not electric. I call it "keep-fit" 'cos you have to move your arm in a cycle motion and actually do some work. Excercise to keep-fit - lol!

The regulator is what my mechanic mentioned. He isn't sure though. But basically what happens is that I can basically just open the window from the outside by gripping it with my window and sliding down.

Also, from the inside, the window was just drop to the bottom/end once wound half-way by the handle.

Thanks for the other info. I'm expecting the car back tonight.

Ah... changing this can be done at home in one afternoon / evening +. Remove door trim, handles etc. Unsnap window from the "regulator." Unbolt and withdraw regulator.

Morten.

Sorted, done that.

Well sort of - The plastic holding it all was all broken, so it's now just tied.

The's car running much better now it's back, but there are still some "problems".

When sat idling there's a whining noise. As soon as I push the clutch pedal in the whining noise stops. By whining I mean it's a bit low - sort of a bearing noise? The gearbox/clutch is fine when used etc. and it probably is nothing.

The clutch itself is just very sharp. The cable's been adjusted so there's less travel.

Idle is a bit crap. Haven't tried a common early morning cold start yet, but starting the car isn't exactly easy. I end up having to pull the choke slightly until it just starts then push it back quickly while reving the engine. Then pull the choke back up a little again until it warms.

Now, I'd expect to push the choke back in when the car's warmed up about a 3rd of the way on the guage, so I do. But then the car stalls. Then you go through the whole starting it back up again issue as above. Not ideal at junctions etc.

So currently I'm driving around with the choke out. Not a huge amount. Basically, just enough so the choke light doesn't come on.

My initial thinking is to simply increase the idle speed with the screw on the carb, but I will be taking it back to the garage first. It doesn't always happen. Sometimes it idle's fine, but most of time it doesn't.

Don't think my mechanic looked at the rear washer. There's no damp patches anywhere, so I don't thinkg it's leaking. I will have a look myself later though (need time).

Will try and fine information about the tyre pressures. I don't there was anything in the handbook when I though, but will have a proper look again.

Hopefully will do some good motorways tests tonight

Ding! Appears I need to learn how to use the choke properly

Once the car reaches half-way (e.g. operating temp.) and I then push the choke fully in, it's perfect.

Motorway driving was a bit funny - the speedo doesn't go past 42mph, so I basically didn't know how fast I was going. It felt quick enough though.

How easy would the speedo be to fix? It works a little bit, so I guess it's just a new guage I need? Will remove the front cover with allen keys and see what it's like.

Cheers!

My speedo cable was very tight, so removing the panel (after removing the two allen screws) could be done AFTER removing the speedometer cable. This might only be a problem with left-steered cars. Reach under the steering wheel column and find the cable. Pull back the plastic hood ("foreskin") and withdraw. Then take out the instrument panel. The fiber-optics are easy to reinstall, so don´t be worried when removing them.

The fault might also be at the gear box.

Morten.

Ok, thanks. I'll try that. The speedo does seem to work better. I don't know if that's due to more use of the car (was sat for 2 months doing nothing by previous owner), but either way I'll dismantle it and have a look.

Did a proper motorway test last night. Speedo said 80mph. It was probably more like 70. The car managed it fine, so it'll be brilliant for motorways I think.

Also, what is the capacity of the fuel tank? And what sort of fuel economy should I expect? I would like at least like 35-40mpg. Possible?