Hi everyone,

Had a bit of a scary moment yesterday when my Uno 60 1108cc 'J' reg 1992 car cut out suddenly at 50mph on the M18 (it had also happened a few hours before on the way to Bawtry, again at around the same speed).

In the first case, the car would not restart for about 10 mins (turning over but not sparking) but then seemed normal (although I was on minor roads travelling a lot less fast), until the problem reappeared on the motorway.

Slight spluttering before total cut out each time. Dash ignition lights only came on when car had slowed considerably so possibly not an electrical fault? Not been an issue so far at slower speeds. Fuel left in tank! New fuel filter was fitted about a month ago and perished fuel pipe changed. No fuel leaks evident. Temperature gauge normal.

My vehicle uses the single point injection system and I'm wondering if the fuel injector is blocked/gummed up or if the fuel petrol pump is starting to fail, but only when it is being worked hard at high speed.
I'm considering whether to add a treatment to the petrol tank to help clean the injector or change the pump itself.

Has anyone ever experienced this kind of problem and found a solution?

Thanks,

Andy

In your case you most probably have problems with ignition module that is located in the back of distributor. When engine stops again try pouring some water on it (to cool it down), if engine starts right away after that, you found a problem.

It looks like this

Thanks, Uno Driver, the ignition module is certainly a possibility but I'm also considering other causes. Reason being I replaced this module about 2 or 3 years ago and remember the symptoms as a general misfire at all speeds and continual problems starting up, not just at 50mph when the engine is warm. That's not to say it couldn't of gone wrong again (bit of a weak point so I understand), but I also had a word with Intermotor and they don't think it's the module.

One thing I didn't mention was that the subframe has been replaced recently and I'm wondering if any wires (e.g. earth lead, engine to chassis) or sensors have been disturbed in the process.

Also, could it be the fuel pump relay starting to go? If/when the next cut out occurs, I should be able to tell when I turn the ignition on if the pump is firing up or not.

Anyway, cheers for now, I'll let you know how things go.

Andy

Uno driver said:

In your case you most probably have problems with ignition module that is located in the back of distributor. When engine stops again try pouring some water on it (to cool it down), if engine starts right away after that, you found a problem.

It looks like this

Click to expand...

:yeahthat:

Classic symptoms of an overheating ignition module. Try as Uno driver suggested and see if the engine starts up straight away. If cooling the module enables the engine to re-start then you've located your problem.

Other things to look for are the two wires (red and green I think) coming out of the module. These can chaff through their insulation resulting in intermittent shorting. Also, if the module isn't earthed properly this can lead to it becoming overloaded and then burning out. Make sure all engine earth leads are secure and also that they ends are clean. Use a wire brush and take back to shiny metal if necessary.

As you've had your subframe changed then I'd double check the earth leads and all electrical connections to the engine. It's possible one has become loose/ disturbed during the changeover.

Also check that the fuel pipes haven't been trapped anywhere. A kink may reduce fuel flow that won't affect the running until higher speeds.

Lastly, double check the fuel filter and the replacement for the perished fuel pipe. It's possible that changing the pipe has dislodged muck/ particles that could be blocking something. Was the pipe replaced pre or post filter? If post then that might have caused particles to partially block the throttle body.

Good luck and keep the forum posted with the progress.

capers626 said:

My vehicle uses the single point injection system and I'm wondering if the fuel injector is blocked/gummed up or if the fuel petrol pump is starting to fail, but only when it is being worked hard at high speed.

Click to expand...

In addition to what the others have posted, I think you are onto something here. It sounds as though the fuel supply isn't keeping up with high-load conditions. Can you get it to fault if you accelerate hard at lower speeds?

This may sound stupid but the first thing I'd do is change that fuel filter AGAIN for one of a different brand (or refit the original if you still have it)... it would be a logical explanation that the new filter was more restrictive than the old, maybe due to a manufacturing fault. It seems like too much of a coincidence that the fault showed up after you replaced the filter. I agree also with the comments above about kinked pipes or contamination up to the injector - maybe remove it and let petrol run through for a moment.

The idea of the fuel pump relay could be proved by rigging some wires and a test bulb to the fuel pump, so you can see if the pump stops running the next time the problem strikes.

-Alex

Hi everyone,

Just a quick update re the engine cut out problem. It looks like it was the igntion module. I tried the 'water' test and the engine did restart as predicted. I then examined the module itself and found the terminals were badly rusted and were only making intermittent contact. I'm not sure if this was due to condensation or overheating; anyway, I've fitted a new module and my car is running well so far.

Thanks to all those who offered advice or suggestions to help me on my way to solving this issue.

Cheers,
Andy