General MOT fail

[PaulDrage]

Well, i suppose it was to be expected

So my list to make anyone else feel better:
1. n/s front sidelight incorrect colour (bright white led bulbs clearly not mot'able)
2. o/s sidelight incorrect colour

3. o/s rear shock absorber has a serious fluid leak (ohh thats probably why it knocks !:bang: )

4. center exhaust has a leak (small hole.)

5. o/s rear wheel rim is badly distorted (its not THAT bad!)
6. n/s rear wheel rim is badly distorted (same again)

now the killers:
7. offside rear subframe mounting prescribed area is excessively corroded.
8. nearside (as above)

So i have 10 days to find, and fit, sills (7 & 8), 2 wheel rims (5+6), weld exhaust (4), find and fit a shocker (or a pair - 3), change bulbs back (1 + 2)

He also said i should bleed the brakes but it passed the efficiency test, and hell even the emissions test. (i guess its good that the age just clears it from having to have a catalytic converter! woo!)

On the plus side there is no advisorys
And i did drive it back along a couple of dual carriageways and it definately still has the up and go in it!

Will let you know if i complete this in 10 working days! (what are the chances of that?!)

Paul

 

[alexGS]

Well, considering that there ISN'T a rear subframe on an Uno, that's an interesting fail point!

My guess is that it will either be an easy welded repair from within the rear wheelarches, or you'll have to take the rear axle out, which isn't that difficult (four bolts each side). You already have to take both the rear shocks out, of course, which is an easy job. Expect to have to replace rear shock top mountings. You weren't seriously going to replace just ONE shock absorber, were you...

The lights - yeah, get it together, five minute fix including the time to buy the bulbs

Wheels - are they alloys? I had a pair of bent alloys once and I found a guy who could straighten them - and he did - he also straightened motorcycle wheels (none of this helps you at all, except to let you know that it is possible!)

If steel wheels then it's not worth the trouble, there are tons of identical steel wheels around.

Have fun - I'm sure you'll have it all fixed by the weekend

-Alex

 

[PaulDrage]

hah, well, in the uk we are now computerised MOT testing so he just picked the next best thing to say:
"YOUR SILLS ARE NEAR ENOUGH NON EXISTANT"

which is a bit unfair anyway as they were nicely covered with the sill covers

I've just ordered 2 complete sills, i've already got two rear arch repair panels sat here anyway, so im going to weld the complete sills on, with new rear arches at the same time. (massive job if im honest )

As for shockers - well if i can find two, then i'll change two

yeah alloy wheels but i think i will fit the spare on one side and find another steel for the moment, then whack the alloys back on..

Money money money it's a poor mans world ..

 

[stealthstylz]

At least they picked up on the corrosion. I'd rather they pointed it out and it was repaired than drive about for a year with an unsafe car.

Matt

 

[PaulDrage]

Yeah, don't get me wrong im all for safe cars etc, just you get to a point where you think you've covered every angle then more time off the road etc..

Well the sills arrived this morning (pretty rapid seeing as i ordered them Tuesday afternoon!)

Think about £40 all in, from all-car-parts.
'tis a shame in a way i spent quite a while fixing up the drivers side doorstep bit, and that comes on the new sill anyway (live and learn hey)

 

[PaulDrage]

So todo list grows slightly smaller:
todo uno before 13th July (last date/time for free retest is 14th 9:30am)..

1. Wait for shockers to arrive and then: Fit rear shockers.
ETA: Monday 7th 6PM. (30mins to fit??)

2. Cut off sills and arches (rear) on both sides. Will allow a good 5 hours for cutting off.
This time will include removing rear lights.

Not sure about my rear bumper, i have a feeling the bolts/captive nuts may be spinning, does anyone have a trick here or is it just a pain in the arse?

3. Weld on new sills and rear arch repair panels. 5 hours.

4. Slap some underseal on new sills and prime new panels.

5. change bulbs over - done.

6. rear wheels - just need to find myself a steel wheel to slap on for the MOT. (15 mins)

7. Bleed all brakes - will allow time to find some fluid out etc will allow: (30 mins)

So looks like it might be just do-able, hey if i miss the free re-test its not the end of the world it's just more money to spend isn't it, as i said above i'd rather have it done right, i've not rushed anything up until this point, but in a way i like to set deadlines it keeps the thing going, stops you from having a "oh i'll do that in a few weeks..".

Wish me luck hah

 

[Louie Bee]

So you have used all car parts - think I sent you a link when you asked about repeaters. Sound rather good .

I have a full MK2 sill that I'll probs never use LOL.

Good choice to go for them new shocks too..

The ones I removed from my MK2 were an odd pair..
Different brands, overall lengths, and damping rate .

Who the hell fitted them cos they both look hardly used .

 

[PaulDrage]

hmm a good start would be the guy/gal who sold you the car?

yeah i figure for the sake of a few quick im better off with brand new struts that i can trust - plus they will be here soon i think!

yeah again, i think the link was from you- a very good quick service i have to say!

 

[alexGS]

Removing rear bumper (or front bumper for that matter) - as mentioned recently in Jai's thread 'mad rush', I find the best way now is to simply insert a large screwdriver in the slot on the edge, and pry the bumper off the fixing bolt. It doesn't seem to damage the bumper excessively - will still accept the bolt for reassembly later.

Otherwise you can try wire-brushing the bolt threads, then force a smaller screwdriver through that slot and try to prevent the bolt turning in the bumper - never works though, the bolt just becomes a very effective 'cam' and the screwdriver moves in and out.

When I say 'bolt' I mean the thing about 2cm square with an M6 thread sticking out - a 10mm nut with integral washer fits onto it.

Some Unos - certain models, no rhyme or reason as to when - have a much better arrangement with a 2cm-square STAINLESS STEEL plate that has an M8 threaded hole. Then, a conventional 13mm-head bolt goes into this. It's almost as though somebody decided to stop and think about the bumper-rusting-on problem, but then the accountants caught up and forced a reversion to the 10mm-with-M6-stud things.

Now, you don't find that sort of trivia just anywhere, you know

-Alex

 

[Chas Uno]

Paul, I've seen MOT failure lists way longer than yours! The joys of growing up with 70's rot buckets

Keep at it and you'll soon get your beasty back on the road

 

[PaulDrage]

Cheers, getting closer!
Re-fabricated n/s inner sill this week, and have tacked on the new sill on the n/s! bring it on!

As for rear bumper, in the end i just used my grinder and attacked all the mounts (the studs), the nuts were essentially rusted in place forming a perfect threadlock setup!

So im just going to find some nice bolts with a good head size and grind down the head until its quite shallow / flat, or i may find some new studs to put into place, then maybe glue/araldite into place.

Im gona start a "project thread" i think, ive got tonnes of pics, probably not that interesting but will save posting a new thread every week!

 

[Jai]

i found a combo of prising the old ones out of their housings in the bumper, jiggling the bumper round, and cold, hard, brutal, hardcore violence works a treat


when rebuilding....copper grease is your friend

 

[PaulDrage]

oh *praises copper slip* i do love it when you come to un-do a bolt on a car expecting it to be a real fight, only to find someone before you was nice and copper slipped it (or you did it and you cant remember).. Great stuff.

So progress is slow on a day to day level, but overall my fail list:
(blue-done)

1. n/s front sidelight incorrect colour (bright white led bulbs clearly not mot'able)
2. o/s sidelight incorrect colour

3. o/s rear shock absorber has a serious fluid leak (ohh thats probably why it knocks !:bang: )

4. center exhaust has a leak (small hole.)

5. o/s rear wheel rim is badly distorted (its not THAT bad!)
6. n/s rear wheel rim is badly distorted (same again)

7. offside rear subframe mounting prescribed area is excessively corroded.
8. nearside (as above)