Technical Crunchy gearbox

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Technical Crunchy gearbox

Tipo Jack

Diesel rules!
Joined
Dec 21, 2006
Messages
28
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10
Location
Burton-on-Trent
My TD SX crunches if I change too quickly into 3rd and sometimes 2nd gear when it's cold. I suspect dodgy syncromesh but it's only done a genuine 80,000 miles. Is that likely? Could it be linkage adjustment or is that wishful thinking?

As the gearbox is so hard to drain (have you tried to get a spanner in there to unscrew the plug?!) I think it's never been done. I've tried adding some Molyslip additive but it had no effect. My next plan is to make a plug spanner which will fit and change the oil. I thought about adding some slightly thinner oil to the mix in order to try to make it easier when cold. My thinking is that it does not crunch when warm as the oil has thinned due to being warmer. If I start with thinner oil it should be okay from cold perhaps? Bear in mind as well that a lot of cars just use normal engine oil for gearbox oil so I don't think it will do any harm. Any thoughts?
 
My TD SX crunches if I change too quickly into 3rd and sometimes 2nd gear when it's cold. I suspect dodgy syncromesh but it's only done a genuine 80,000 miles. Is that likely? Could it be linkage adjustment or is that wishful thinking?

As the gearbox is so hard to drain (have you tried to get a spanner in there to unscrew the plug?!) I think it's never been done. I've tried adding some Molyslip additive but it had no effect. My next plan is to make a plug spanner which will fit and change the oil. I thought about adding some slightly thinner oil to the mix in order to try to make it easier when cold. My thinking is that it does not crunch when warm as the oil has thinned due to being warmer. If I start with thinner oil it should be okay from cold perhaps? Bear in mind as well that a lot of cars just use normal engine oil for gearbox oil so I don't think it will do any harm. Any thoughts?

Drain the oil. Do not put thin oil in a gearbox. There was 2 gearboxes used on that model. Not sure if one of them had EP oil in or not. Standard gear oil is 80w/90 none EP [extreme pressure bearings] and is not compatable with engine oil.

Andy.:)
 
okay point taken. I found this snippet of information while doing a search on another (alfa) site. Can anyone explain why GL4 would be better than GL5? I suppose my next step is to change the gearbox oil and use GL4 and see how it goes....

I know this has been discussed a few times on here and some of you other guys have synchs that are "beatable" in a fast change from cold.
Our 155 has had a beatable synch (when cold) since we got it 4 years ago and hasn't shown signs of getting worse.
I figured that as the box got warmer, the viscosity of the oil dropped, therefore a thinner gbox oil would do the trick.
However, I spoke to somone in the know who explained how a synch actually works and they told me they rely on a certain viscosity. I was advised to use older gearbox oil (GL4) as opposed to the more modern (GL5) that was currently in. I had the driveshafts out of the box at the weekend and had to drain the GBox oil to stop it going all over my driveway, so thought I would replace it with some GL4...

result was a MASSIVE improvement. I now cannot beat the synch even from cold.

Worth a try guys...? Marlon, think you said you had the same (slight) problem?
 
okay point taken. I found this snippet of information while doing a search on another (alfa) site. Can anyone explain why GL4 would be better than GL5? I suppose my next step is to change the gearbox oil and use GL4 and see how it goes....

Well it seems any gearboxes with yellow metal in them like copper or bronze for example[washers say], can be effected with GL5 oil. The sulphur content destroys the metal. But if the oil says GL4/GL5, then its fine. So you want a 80w/90 GL4 oil. But find out if its EP or not. Your local Fiat dealer should be able to tell you. Gearbox plug adaptors are available from good car accessory shops and are inexpensive.

Andy.:)
 
Gearbox plug adaptors are available from good car accessory shops and are inexpensive.

Yeah I've got one. Have you tried fitting it into the gap? Doesn't go. I'll have to cobble something up.
 
Yeah I've got one. Have you tried fitting it into the gap? Doesn't go. I'll have to cobble something up.

Must have the wrong type. I have a kit with about 8 different fitments to cover all cars. Only cost me £8 from local motor factors and made by Laser.

Andy.:)
 
This doesn't help you one bit but my TD does exactly the same. Your car is still running-in :D but mine has done some serious miles so I wonder if it is not wear but an inherent fault in the design.
 
Well, I changed the gearbox oil. Judging by the colour of the oil I took out it had not been changed ever! There was a fair amount of metal filings on the plug as well (looks like they put a magnet in them from the factory!).

Result - still crunches! I'm now going to drain out a little so that I can put some wynns gearbox treatment in and then see how it goes.

Watch this space Jonti!
 
Least you don't have the gear popping out of all the forwards gears (3rd and 5th) when you go around right hand bends!

2nd gear synchro seems to have died in the Marea. Just have to take it gently and match revs

Try double de clutching. Press clutch, take out of gear, press clutch, this slows layshaft, and put into gear. Once you master it, you change pretty near as quick as before. this was the way gear changes were done before syncro gearboxes. They were known as "crash boxes"" and still done on some straight cut race gearboxes. Sometimes blipping the accelerator is needed to match revs too. On some gearboxes, just changing gear without the clutch :eek: is possible if the right revs are used but def not recommended!!

Andy.:)
 
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