Here I fit a Nextbase dash cam to my Tipo. I have fitted one before, hardwired in my old Volvo, so the plan was to hardwire this one. But, the fuse box is behind the glove box and even once the tabs inside have been taken out, it hardly opens;



The fuses are further obscured by a metal plate, I could not even get a decent photo to show how inaccessible they are. So, I switched to wiring the dashcam using the supplied 12v "cigarette lighter" fitting.

First, place the dash cam as out of the way as possible;



The wire goes straight from the dashcam up and is tucked easily into the front of the roof lining where it meets the windscreen. I could easy push the wire in with my fingers.


I then switched to a trim tool. Nextbase supply a small one with the camera, I used a larger one I had. Pull the top of the plastic cover on the A pillar and push the wire behind that.




Then feed the wire down the A pillar by levering the black trim to make a gap and push the wire into the space.



The one place I could not get trim apart enough to push the wire behind, was where the A pillar meets the top edge of the dash.



The wire then pushes in where the dash meets the door, down to the bottom edge of the dash.



Now it is easy, pushing the wire up and behind the passenger footwell carpet.



The wire is 4m long, so it is here the excess can easily be tucked away. At the centre consol, there is an edge that runs from the carpet to where the 12v outlet is. I just pushed the lower part with my fingers to open up a big enough gap for the wire to go through. I left just enough wire so the plug then fits into the 12v supply.



I bought an adaptor so that I can charge other items by USB. It took 15 minutes and works fine.


The 12v supply switches on and off with the car, so the bump mode, if someone bumps into the car, the dash cam switches on and records for a minute or so, will not work. It needs to be hardwired for that to work, apparently.

Tipotwo said:

Here I fit a Nextbase dash cam to my Tipo. I have fitted one before, hardwired in my old Volvo, so the plan was to hardwire this one. But, the fuse box is behind the glove box and even once the tabs inside have been taken out, it hardly opens;

The fuses are further obscured by a metal plate, I could not even get a decent photo to show how inaccessible they are. So, I switched to wiring the dashcam using the supplied 12v "cigarette lighter" fitting.

First, place the dash cam as out of the way as possible;

The wire goes straight from the dashcam up and is tucked easily into the front of the roof lining where it meets the windscreen. I could easy push the wire in with my fingers.


I then switched to a trim tool. Nextbase supply a small one with the camera, I used a larger one I had. Pull the top of the plastic cover on the A pillar and push the wire behind that.

Then feed the wire down the A pillar by levering the black trim to make a gap and push the wire into the space.

The one place I could not get trim apart enough to push the wire behind, was where the A pillar meets the top edge of the dash.

The wire then pushes in where the dash meets the door, down to the bottom edge of the dash.

Now it is easy, pushing the wire up and behind the passenger footwell carpet.

The wire is 4m long, so it is here the excess can easily be tucked away. At the centre consol, there is an edge that runs from the carpet to where the 12v outlet is. I just pushed the lower part with my fingers to open up a big enough gap for the wire to go through. I left just enough wire so the plug then fits into the 12v supply.

I bought an adaptor so that I can charge other items by USB. It took 15 minutes and works fine.


The 12v supply switches on and off with the car, so the bump mode, if someone bumps into the car, the dash cam switches on and records for a minute or so, will not work. It needs to be hardwired for that to work, apparently.

Click to expand...

I’ve done exactly the same with mine. Much easier than trying a hardwire connection.

twobigdogs said:

I’ve done exactly the same with mine. Much easier than trying a hardwire connection.

Click to expand...

We you able to get the wire into the gap at the bottom of the A pillar/top of the dash?


I also noticed that the front of the roof lining was quite rough. It was almost too easy to push the wire into that gap and I had a few attempts before the wire would stay put.

No the same as you..the cable won’t go into the gap closest to the dash. I ran the cable at the top behind the sun visor secured with small white cable ties.

I just wanted to add to this instead of making a whole new thread and say that hard wiring is possible and it’s pretty easy.

First of all, you need to remove the glovebox, you do this by prising out the fixing lugs which are fitted in the part I’ve circled blue (note: I’ve already removed them in the pic) next, there’s a small lug which stops the glovebox hitting your passengers legs everytime you open it, if you reach up the side of the glovebox you will be able to feel it and you need to pull it towards you and out, this will drop the glovebox down.

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Next, you’ll see 6 small torx screws, 3 at the bottom and 3 at the top, unfortunately I didn’t get a photo of the top ones but you can’t miss them, remove all of these then pull the glovebox out.

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Now, with the glovebox removed it’ll look like this

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Now it’s time to fix your dashcam in place and start running the wires. Pull the passenger door rubber halfway off to gain access to the a pillar trim, with the rubber removed, pull the a pillar trim towards the drivers side of the car, it’s just held in place with clips, you don’t need to fully remove it either, now just route your wire from the dashcam to the a pillar, tuck it under the headliner and into the corner of the a pillar trim so that it pokes through where the door seal sits, now you’re ready to push your a pillar trim back in place. Tuck the rest of the wiring behind the dash and then reach up through the glovebox hole to pull it through to make your connections

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Re-fit door seal.

Here’s the fusebox, now with your wires sitting in your footwell you’ll want to install your fuse holder in the slot for the 15amp fuse right at the bottom of the left hand side, this is the only one that comes on and off with ignition, all the others stay live even when the car is locked and as you can see in the pic, I used the torx bolt to earth it

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Now all that’s left is to tidy your connections and put your glovebox back in, I’ve been writing for about an hour now so I’m going to use the Haynes manuals favourite line “refitting is the reverse of removal” the only thing I will say is the lug that you remove to get the glovebox to drop is on a string and you just reach up the side of the glovebox and pull it forward to clip it back in to the glovebox, I hope that makes sense but if it doesn’t, you’ll just have to work it out for yourself

Good luck boys and girls, ps: don’t forget to disconnect your battery, there’s curtain air bags just above the a pillar trim and I wouldn’t want you to ruin your car