Technical Winter head scratcher

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Technical Winter head scratcher

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Jan 16, 2020
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A few weeks ago during the cold spell I did an 85 mile drive home to see the folks. I normally rarely do more than 15 miles at a time commuting.
Half way down the m6 with heater on full the temp gauge dropped and engine light came on.
I checked the coolant level and it only required about a cup to top up.
MES said Coolant temperature sensor so I've ordered one and cleared the fault and will check the ecu wiring at the plug when I install it.
Since then we've had loads of rain and as usual the inside of the windscreen has been p*ss wet through (I checked for wet carpets from possible heater matrix leak but they're dry).
I've had the usual suspect dash warning lights ( orange bulb for rear lights- connections cleaned and sorted, and a couple more engine lights for the coolant sensor I'm still waiting for).
The one that's unusual is the dreaded power steering light for torque sensor.
I replaced the column and the torque sensor about 18 months ago so it was a bit perplexing. (I didn't replace power steering motor or ecu)
First thoughts are ground connections on and under battery and on gear box.
Second thought was is it damp getting into power steering ecu from wet inside the windscreen.
Third thought was could it be the old motor is getting a bit "tired" now and confusing the torque sensor/ ecu ( the steering hasn't been as light as I've known on my previous puntos)
The power steering light goes off with ignition off/on and only comes on again in the morning with the wet interior windscreen and after a couple of minutes driving with the steering noticeably lighter.
4 hours later when starting up again (windscreen not wet) the ps light doesn't come on ( the steering still hasn't gone heavy yet even with light on).
Any thoughts before I start pulling wires off and buying more parts??
 
How is the battery? How old, how charged? Power steering is sensitive to boltage drop, so that could give the ps error. But, having the column and torque sensor replaced 18 month ago... how did you do that? I presume you did not buy a new column, it being so expensive, so you cannot dismiss the possibility that the torque sensor you have now is not working anymore, thus the error. And technically, the dreadful PS error is caused by the torque sensor which is located in the column. I had this dredful problem, I bought my car having it already and it taunted me a couple of years. I solved it buying a new torque sensor and put it in place and the ps works great since. It was easy to replace the sensor. You have to take down the column and there you have it, bolted in the middle of the column.
The high humidity inside the car is not good at all, but I don't think that it can cause the ps error.
How is the alternator working, what voltage do you get out of it?
For the temp gauge dropping problem, if the MES says coolant temp sensor is good. You should solve that with the new sensor. Make sure you do proper system bleeding after you put the sensor in.
 
How is the battery? How old, how charged? Power steering is sensitive to boltage drop, so that could give the ps error. But, having the column and torque sensor replaced 18 month ago... how did you do that? I presume you did not buy a new column, it being so expensive, so you cannot dismiss the possibility that the torque sensor you have now is not working anymore, thus the error. And technically, the dreadful PS error is caused by the torque sensor which is located in the column. I had this dredful problem, I bought my car having it already and it taunted me a couple of years. I solved it buying a new torque sensor and put it in place and the ps works great since. It was easy to replace the sensor. You have to take down the column and there you have it, bolted in the middle of the column.
The high humidity inside the car is not good at all, but I don't think that it can cause the ps error.
How is the alternator working, what voltage do you get out of it?
For the temp gauge dropping problem, if the MES says coolant temp sensor is good. You should solve that with the new sensor. Make sure you do proper system bleeding after you put the sensor in.
The battery was new at the same time as the NOS Steering column (deal at the time for 95 quid! It had the wrong motor and ecu on so I swapped my originals on and sold them).
Voltage is fine for battery and alternator.
The ground connections were a bit rusty under the grease I put on last year so I'll probably give them a proper clean and regrease though.
Not looking forward to the system bleeding though. Any tips?
 
Tips for the bleeding?! I think I mentioned some, a while ago, here somewhere.
...
Here it is, hope it help
 
Tips for the bleeding?! I think I mentioned some, a while ago, here somewhere.
...
Here

Tips for the bleeding?! I think I mentioned some, a while ago, here somewhere.
...
Here it is, hope it help
Cheers! What do you mean by "Then take down the air vents and top up the antifreeze untill...."
 
Tips for the bleeding?! I think I mentioned some, a while ago, here somewhere.
...
Here it is, hope it help
Cheers! What do you mean by "Then take down the air vents and top up the antifreeze untill..."?
I'm assuming you mean leave them open when topping up the antifreeze and only close when liquid comes out ?
 
Regarding the other problems, for the EPS error, torque sensor is all you need to replace. I bought a brand new one after I took the column down and sensor out and searched it by the exact model no. This is the one, in photo, price was about 80 quid.
For ground connections, there is an easy and effective way to test them, using a multimeter. You read the voltage on the battery, then keep the (+) probe on the battery and put the (-) probe where you need to have goog ground. Now, if the voltage is the same like direct battery reading it means ground is good, if voltage is less, ground is not good. I had more than 1 V less on the chassis and on the gearbox, therefore I replaced the ground cable. I used a DIY new cable, actually made it from 2 pieces because on the chassis, about half of the leads were cut, broken. So I bought from an electric shop cable, connectors and thermo retractable isolation, made new cables and placed the 2 connectors one on top of the other, on chassis.
 

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Regarding the other problems, for the EPS error, torque sensor is all you need to replace. I bought a brand new one after I took the column down and sensor out and searched it by the exact model no. This is the one, in photo, price was about 80 quid.
For ground connections, there is an easy and effective way to test them, using a multimeter. You read the voltage on the battery, then keep the (+) probe on the battery and put the (-) probe where you need to have goog ground. Now, if the voltage is the same like direct battery reading it means ground is good, if voltage is less, ground is not good. I had more than 1 V less on the chassis and on the gearbox, therefore I replaced the ground cable. I used a DIY new cable, actually made it from 2 pieces because on the chassis, about half of the leads were cut, broken. So I bought from an electric shop cable, connectors and thermo retractable isolation, made new cables and placed the 2 connectors one on top of the other, on chassis.
Thanks. That's a good tip with the multimeter! I'll give it a go.
 
Cheers! What do you mean by "Then take down the air vents and top up the antifreeze untill..."?
I'm assuming you mean leave them open when topping up the antifreeze and only close when liquid comes out ?
I mean you can take them down completely when the engine is not running (2nd faze of bleeding) cause that way air comes out completely and fast. When is cooler on top of those hose, you can screw the vents back, first the one on the radiator, secon the heater one. I even have a picture of them, so I'll post it here. The heater vent on mine is also a DYI, cause the original broke.
 

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I’d test the top hose for the thermostat leaking before doing anything else
 

I’d test the top hose for the thermostat leaking before doing anything else
I'll try that cheers!
 
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