Technical Wheel spacing for PGT brakes.

[Razman]

Finished putting on my PGT brakes yesterday , and went to put the wheel on......

Guess what? It doesn't fit! They're only just scraping (maybe about 1 or 2mm) I can fit the wheel, but it does scrape (on the caliper)

My wheels are 14" speedlines, has anybody got PGT brakes with these wheels?

I'm kind of thinking some spacers might do the trick, but If I stick spacers on the front, will I have to widen the rears by the same amount? I know the front are wider, but by how much?

Cheers.

 

[fingers99]

Never used those wheels.

I'd just pop the smallest spacers you can on the front -- turn in will be better! You may -- you could use the olde "washers to measure the spacers required" trick (although it's a bit of a faff with wheel nuts) -- use superglue? -- find that the OE Cinq 3mm spacers do the job. Alternatively, Alfa 155s used 6mm ones. Both are probably still available from dealers (the Alfas even had longer spire nuts to suit).

A slighly riskier alternative is to shave a bit off the calipers.

 

[Razman]

To save me starting another thread, here's my new issue.

Just installed a gazzman chipped ecu and 40mm TB at the same time. The car now starts quite badly, but after a few seconds it smooths out. The injector warning light is flashing when starting then turns to solid red. I can hear the revs jumping up and down a little while it idles.

Is this to be expected? Should I give it time to bed in?

Ps. I sorted the brakes.

 

[fingers99]

To save me starting another thread, here's my new issue.

Just installed a gazzman chipped ecu and 40mm TB at the same time. The car now starts quite badly, but after a few seconds it smooths out. The injector warning light is flashing when starting then turns to solid red. I can hear the revs jumping up and down a little while it idles.

Is this to be expected? Should I give it time to bed in?

Sounds like classic air leak (vacuum side). You might try hard resetting the ECU by disconnecting the negative battery lead for a while, but I'd certainly suspect an air leak.

Ps. I sorted the brakes.

Go on, let us into the secret!

 

[Razman]

Sounds like classic air leak (vacuum side). You might try hard resetting the ECU by disconnecting the negative battery lead for a while, but I'd certainly suspect an air leak.

Go on, let us into the secret!

Seeing as they were only rubbing by about 1mm odd, I used a fine flap disc on my angle grinder and just rubbed over the caliper and kept checking the wheel fitment. Eventually they span without rubbing, didn't take much if I'm honest! Painted them back to the red they once were, it looks seamless! So that's pretty much the solution for 14" speedlines & PGT brakes.

Back on topic, I tried the ecu reset to no avail. I've got proper gaskets between the TB and spacer and inlet. The map sensor pipe is a little loose on the inlet, havnt checked it for splits yet. I only tightened the TB bolts to 8nm, I'm not sure if that's tight enough. IIRC that's the torque the Haynes recommends!

 

[fingers99]

Map pipe is a likely suspect. The gaskets like a teeny bit (put it on with your finger) of hylomar. Assuming you're using a bob, the rubber seal there can be problematic.

 

[Razman]

Yeah I'll have to check the rubber seal, not sure what I can really do about that? I'll stick a cable tie or a dab of silicone on the inlet connection for the map pipe.

Thanks fingers, I'll report back with my results

 

[Razman]

I stuck a dab of silicone and a cable tie on the map pipe, seemed to do the trick for the idle.

The injector light is still on, seeing as I installed a 40mm and chipped ecu, does the ecu just think the injector isn't supplying enough fuel because of this big increase is TB size or something?

 

[fingers99]

I stuck a dab of silicone and a cable tie on the map pipe, seemed to do the trick for the idle.

The injector light is still on, seeing as I installed a 40mm and chipped ecu, does the ecu just think the injector isn't supplying enough fuel because of this big increase is TB size or something?

Who knows? Only a code read would really be informative. You might try the battery disconnect trick again. Any difference without the chip?

 

[Razman]

I'll try the old ecu, but it's only occurred when I did these upgrades, i just think it's panicked and thrown a code up to the dash if I'm honest. College has a snap-on verdict diagnostics computer, gives me an excuse to use that great piece of kit, it can give live readings whilst the car runs too!

 

[fingers99]

great piece of kit, it can give live readings whilst the car runs too!

Mind you, so can my £20 eBay job!

 

[Razman]

Well they clearly overpaid by £2980 then! I mean, It can do other stuff, but moving graphs impress me the most because I have a mental age of 5.

Got a link to that? Always on the lookout for bargains

 

[fingers99]

Here. Mind you, I've never used it in that mode, in fact, I've only ever used it to delete a code on the T5. And, don't forget, it's ODB2, so won't do anything for an SPI car.

 

[Razman]

So what would be compatible with SPI? OBD1?

 

[fingers99]

ECU Scan 2. And it's free (as in beer) -- maybe Open Source, too.

 

[blu73]

For spi cars you want this free download http://iaw-scan2.sourceforge.net/

one of these and one of these.

 

[Razman]

Cheers pal