Technical wheel pcd and hubs

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Technical wheel pcd and hubs

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Feb 16, 2005
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I run studs and wobbly nuts are rare, especially in 1.25 thread, and locking wheel nuts are even not about afaik.

Has anyone ever considered reboring the cento hub to 100 pcd?? It looks close to the edge but it may be do-able. Then you could use any 100pcd with studs and even go for a 1.5 thread as it seems more common.

A good plan or madness?


I know the centre bore would be off, but isn't that normal with after markets anyway? Spigot rings?

Alternatively are there any hubs in the fiat range that are 100 pcd or a bit meatier to allow for reboring.....i think the new fiats are 100pcd aren't they (got that idea from the oz racing wheel selector)

Kristian
 
Sorry Liam, I meant wobbly locking wheel nuts, not just locking wheel nuts so I can fit the 100pcd wheels to my hub/stud and stil keep them safe.

Thats why I came up with this idea and looking for any thoughts on it.

I think the Panda 100hp may also be 100pcd, so maybe fiat are now going to a more common size.

I doubt the panda hub or punto grande hub will interchange with the cento hub, but I'll go on a picture hut and see if they look remotely similar (y)

Kristian
 
You just need to use 3 wobbly bolts and one 98 pcd locking wheel nut.

Thats what everyone I know does with wobbly bolts.

think everyone is getting confused about what kritip is asking. hes running a conversion kit converting from bolts to studs and nuts.

what spacer you running kritip? if its like 10mm cant you get some custom convertions up that bolt into the hubs and you have your 4x100 studs with 1.5 threads.
 
D4N D C - that would throw the wheel off centre. I like balanced wheels :p

mog1571 - I run 10mm at teh front, none at the rear...you are right and you can buy what you mention but they are lots of £££!!! Plus I don't need any on the rear, so that throws off that idea ;)

Cheers for the input anyway and keep the ideas flowing :)

Kristian
 
kritip, howcome yours is studs and nuts? mine are bolts!

and also running with 3 wobblies and one normal nut is perfectly fine, just need the correct spigot ring. wobbly lockers when i bought them were 40 smackers!
 
I run 10mm spacers at front (to reduce scrubbing due to low suspension) and take my car to bits all the time lol.

I just got absolutly sick of alligning the wheels to refit the bolts. Studs/nuts are SO much easier to change. As any rally driver who needs to make a quick wheel change on a run :D

just personal prefernce really, but i don't want to be going back to bolts if i can help it ;)

Kristian
 
Also, I'm not convinced 3 wobblies and a bolt are ok....sure they work fine, but it must be putting stress on the allow, bolt/stud or centre ring?! It will be off centre of the wheel hole but 1mm?

I'd rather spend the £40 on wobbly lockers ;)

What I may do seeing as though reboring the hub is obviously not popular, is get one wobbly locking bolt per wheel and 3 wobby nuts....that about the best i can come up with.....


OR

give up the idea of the Oz Superturismo's and get the cheap 98pcd multisopkes of ebay.....not as special but prob still look the part :)

Kristian
 
Kritip, i think i have a solution for you :idea:
Wheel nuts are available with flat, tapered or radiused seats. Our FIAT wheels use tapered (at 60 degs). If you use your studs with wobbly nuts on 3 studs, then on the 4th stud use a locking nut with a radius seat. But under this you need to get an adaptor made up, tapered on the bottom, to sit in the wheel and radiused in the top, so your locking nut sits in it and can 'float' just like the wobblies do. Voila, wobbly locking wheel nuts.

Only problem is getting the adaptors made, you may need to run one longer stud to allow for this extra length of the adaptor, but atleast its an option. And one I would prefer to use over 3 straights and one wobbly.

EDIT: just thinking about this again now, not sure if the above 'would' work, i need to see a wobbly nut to see really, but it may be something to think about.
 
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