Technical Whats your mileage? Any major issues? Also what model / engine

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Technical Whats your mileage? Any major issues? Also what model / engine

dtimmins1985

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As the subject says guys.

Whats your stilo currently at.

My 1.9 multijet 16v 150hp sporting is a November 2006 (56 plate) running approx 200hp and has done 85k so far.

Since owning it since end of march its done 6 or 7k since mot and had a few incidents but is full of life and still going strong...

My old 03 plate 1.2 active i owned for nearly two and half years and put 20k on her in that time, she had all the normal stilo issues and is still going strong with its 5th owner and we are regularly in touch, car is also on a trip to poland right now.

What has everyone elses done?

Oooh forgot to mention, i owned a 150hp spec sporting like mine but it was a breaker at 110k miles ish with a dead injector (never bothered to inspect as the shell was banged and bashed)...

Answers guys, show some love for our beloved stilo's
 
Gerrard is a 1.9 JTD (8v) from December 2003 (registered in May 2004). Currently on 154,000 miles.

The beast came with very little service history but I've owned it 2 years and during my tinkering I have discovered that it has worn out or consumed:

1) Front discs - I think it's on it's third set (including the factory fits). It came with new-ish discs but in the 38,000 miles I've done, these have become moderately worn. I'd say 60k for a set.

2) Rear discs - Second set. They hardly wear at all but the beast suffered a persistent sticky caliper that several attempts to cure, one of which involved new discs.

3) Front wishbone arms. Second set. Originals failed MOT at 106,000. One is TRW and the other is something else. No discernible wear, so I guess these last for ages on Stilo.

Whilst I have had it, I've corrected some inherited issues and suffered a few more wearings out:

1) Clutch. OE clutch slave cylinder lasted 120,000 miles. The plate still had some life in it.. but I changed that at the same time.

2) The n/s rear caliper started squealing and neither were good enough for the MOT (see "persistent sticky caliper" problem, above) but luckily I found a fella selling a pair of new/refurbished calipers which he'd fitted to his Stilo to get it through an MOT... which it still failed for a load of other reasons, so he removed the calipers before scrapping it. No problems since.

3) New handbrake cables - at the same time. They were kinked a bit and the casing was damaged... but otherwise they were working okay.

4) Body Control Module - had a defect in the high beam circuit. I had to replace the BCM to solve the problem, which meant sending it off to a pro'. They transferred my EPROMs to a new second-hand BCM.

5) Clocks. Failed around the 118,000 mark. The Post Office lost them on the way to be repaired. The replacement second-hand clocks I had to buy also failed when they had about 121,000 on them. Yellowstilo fixed them and no problems since.

6) Rear suspension arm bushes. One was squealing a lot and the rubber was disintegrating but did not appear to be leaking... (maybe lost its juice?) and was not knocking/MOT'd okay... but I changed them as a precaution around 125,000.

7) Glow plugs - I changed all four at around 125,000. Two were working and two were not. I think the two that were duff must have been the OE ones, since the two that were working were a different brand, so presumably changed prior. They're all Bosch now.. and no problems.

8) MAF. OE Bosch one ran out of puff around 136,000. New Bosch one was a major improvement to fuel economy and paid for itself already. Don't fit cheap MAFs.

9) Horn went AWOL around 140,000... but it looked like a second-hand "low" tone part of a twin-tone setup, so obviously a bodged replacement for the Stilo's single? horn. New air horn fixed it.

10) Silencer rusted out about 136,000. This was an OE Fiat part but I'm not sure it was out of the factory, since it was bolted to the mid-section, whereas factory fit are usually welded. New (cheapo aftermarket) is lasting well though, so it doesn't eat exhausts.

11) Radiatore died on Le Peripherique this summer, c. 148,000. The beast looked like the OE factory fit... a little tired and rusted and couldn't take the ambient 36C temperature whilst stuck in traffic jams.

12) Front o/s driveshaft spider (inner CV) started grumbling at 145,000 miles... but I ignored it since I needed to drive to Paris (above) and then later on to Italia and back. When I took it out, it promptly fell to pieces, so I had to fit a new one. The other side is not bad but I can sense it could do with pensioning off. I have a spare handy.

13) Needless to say, the beast has had brake pads, cam-belts, tensioners, pulleys, water pumps, aux belts, oil and air filters etc. and a bit of oil.. but it doesn't lose oil (half a litre between 12,000 mile services). Just a small weep from the n/s driveshaft and I think also from the crankshaft oil seal... but just "oily sump", not "spots on the floor".

It's not too bad actually.. :)


Ralf S.
 
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Stilo 1.2 16v July 2002

15+ Years Old Running like new with the proper maintainance.

First engine 2002-2017 ---> 285.000km (broke due to my fault)
Second engine 2017- till now--->35.000km

Lpg fuel the last 50.000km

Sum 320.000km the Stilo body
 
Keep em coming guys.

Some good stuff above :).

Will dig out the service history on mine and also list up the parts due to the incident i was in and will post it all up later :).
 
I.4 active aircon 2006. 96,000 miles. Radiator replaced due to crack in solder. Thermostat replaced. Two new rear calipers. Heater fan resistor replaced. Rear suspension bushes replaced. Front driver's side window switches replaced. New rear silencer box and mid section. New drop links. That's it apart from tyres and service items.
 
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2006 1.9 Multijet 284,000km. Only issue I've had has been bearings go on alternator.
 
2004 1.6 260.000km I had some issues with the throttle body and a body ground also a radiator hose was leaking easy fix and now my transmission is leaking and I don't know where from but other then that nah been pretty reliable
 
I have just replaced a rear wheel ABS sensor on my 2004 1.9JTD 115BHP I bought it last summer for £210 it had been abused, unloved, treated as a mobile skip etc. I have given her a lot of TLC and now my 17 year old son is learning to drive in her ( as well as me doing a good few motorway trips )

Mileage is 110K

Below is what I have done to her to so far

REAR AXLE BUSHES
FRONT CONTROL ARMS
A R B DROPLINKS
EGR BLANKING PLATE
FRONT DISCS
FRONT PADS
REAR PADS
HEADLAMP DIPPED BEAM BULB
REVERSE LIGHT SWITCH
FLOOR MATS
SEAT COVERS
KEY FOB CASE
BOUGHT LEADS FOR DIAGNOSTIC SOFTWARE (mes)
EXHAUST CLAMP
ENGINE MANAGEMENT LIGHT TURNED OFF
EGR VALVE CLEANED
PARCEL SHELF FITTINGS REPAIRED
HEATER SWITCH SURROUND REPAIRED AND NEW BULBS
RADIO FAULT ( TRAPPED WIRE BLOWING FUSE)
BATTERY TRAY REPAIRE
D PAINTED BROKEN OIL CATCH TANK MODIFIED
HANDBRAKE CABLE OUTER REPAIR
HANDBRAKE LEVER SURROUND GOOD ONE FABRICATED FROM TWO
SIEZED BOOT LOCK STRIPPPED AND LUBE
DRIVERS SEAT REPAIRED
WHEEL CENTRE CAPS REPAIRED
REMOVE ANTI THEFT WHEEL BOLTS AS NO KEY EXISTS
SUPPORT TRIM IN FRONT OF PARCEL SHELF (TEMP FIX)
REMOVE SCRATCHES FROM REAR SCREEN (PARTIAL SUCCESS)
EXHAUST BACK BOX REMOVE CORRODED OUTER SKIN
AIRBOX REFIXED
NEW INTERNAL REAR TAILGATE TRIM
REPLACE REAR DISCS
REPLACE ONE REAR CALIPER
MISSING REAR WIPER ARM REPLACED
MISSING WHEEL ARCH LINER REPLACED
REAR FOGS REPLACE DUE TO LENS CRACK
REAR LIGHT CLUSTER PLUG REPLACED
REAR NUMBER PLATE LIGHT SURROUND AND FITTINGS REPAIRED
MISSING BATTERY / FUSE BOX COVER REPLACED
WHEEL BOLTS REPLACING LOCKING WHEEL BOLTS
OFFSIDE UNDERTRAY SECTION FROM PETROL VERSION - MODIFIED TO FIT
OIL FILTER
AIR FILTER
FUEL FILTER
OIL
WASHER FLUID
BLEED BRAKES
BLEED CLUTCH
COMPLETE WAXOYL UNDERBODY
REMOVE RUST AND PAINT FRONT SUBFRAME
REMOVE RUST PAINT BACK AXLE
CLEAN WHEELS, BODY, INTERIOR, ETC -- CAR HAD PREVIOUSLY BEEN USED AS MOBILE SKIP
UPGRADE TO LED DOOR LAMPS

Some parts new , some from breakers,some repaired. Including MOT, service parts, new seat covers, I think she stands at just below £700. I would now trust her to go anywhere. Hope I don't regret saying that :):):)
 
I have just replaced a rear wheel ABS sensor on my 2004 1.9JTD 115BHP I bought it last summer for £210 it had been abused, unloved, treated as a mobile skip etc. I have given her a lot of TLC and now my 17 year old son is learning to drive in her ( as well as me doing a good few motorway trips )

Mileage is 110K

Sounds like you rebuilt it.. :D

Clutch or cylinder will go at 120,000, so hopefully enough time for you to save up.. although it's not an expensive part (just that 36kg of gearbox makes a "DIY-on-the-driveway swap "interesting").. :D


Ralf S.
 
Some good stuff coming up here.

Still need to get all my info together and post it - im at work at present with an injured back, no mobile phone and no bloody internet at home! - should all be sorted this week so will try get some material up.

br,
Dan.
 
Hope you are wrong about clutch ralf -- I was hoping to get a cheap hassle free 50000 out of her after all that work but time will tell. I don't know for sure if she has ever had a timing belt and waterpump maybe I ought to consider treating her to one some time soon.
 
The belt has a change interval of 72,000 from what I can decipher in my user manual. 110,000 on the original belt.. will be interesting. :D

If I was you I'd look at whatever service history or MOT records are available (see on-line MOT history too) and work out who had it when the belt change was due.

You can usually see when the car changed owners since the MOT Test station/location will be different all of a sudden, or the mileage per year changes drastically.

If Ned the Neanderthal who owned your car and didn't even bother to replace the wheel-arch liner owned it when it did 72,000... then you'd probably be safe to assume that the belt wasn't changed.

On the other hand, if the first owner did 30,000 miles a year and owned it for three years then it may have been a company car, so serviced properly.


Ralf S.
 
Stilo Multijet 16V 150BHP 2006 (56) is currently on 120K miles. Only major issues I’ve had are the clutch needed to be replaced, also the swirl flaps were knackered meaning I had to replace the entire inlet manifold with a new blanked one( big time consuming job!) but other than that she’s never let me down. Think the belts are due a change soon though.
 
Stilo Multijet 16V 150BHP 2006 (56) is currently on 120K miles. Only major issues I’ve had are the clutch needed to be replaced, also the swirl flaps were knackered meaning I had to replace the entire inlet manifold with a new blanked one( big time consuming job!) but other than that she’s never let me down. Think the belts are due a change soon though.

Get the EGR removed now (its not needed, more so you have got rid of swirl flaps)... also - disable them in the ecu.
 
Get the EGR removed now (its not needed, more so you have got rid of swirl flaps)... also - disable them in the ecu.

Forgot to mention dtimmins, I have also removed the EGR completely and blanked both ends, but am yet to disable that and the swirl flaps in the ecu.
 
Forgot to mention dtimmins, I have also removed the EGR completely and blanked both ends, but am yet to disable that and the swirl flaps in the ecu.

Cool :)

Mine was disabled in ECU when it was remapped (both flaps and egr) then the EGR was blanked and flaps removed and blanked.

I am still yet to completley remove the EGR... its blanked and disabled as above however, i would like to remove the piping and EGR completely - next job on the agenda.

br,
Dan.
 
Just a note of caution re posts from Travis9599 and dtimmins1985 as quoted below --------------------------------------

Quote Originally Posted by Travis9599
Forgot to mention dtimmins, I have also removed the EGR completely and blanked both ends, but am yet to disable that and the swirl flaps in the ecu.
Cool

Mine was disabled in ECU when it was remapped (both flaps and egr) then the EGR was blanked and flaps removed and blanked.

I am still yet to completley remove the EGR... its blanked and disabled as above however, i would like to remove the piping and EGR completely - next job on the agenda.
----------------------------------------------------

from the above It appears that you have or may be considering complete removal of the EGR and all of it's pipework. Before doing this I would consider the new MOT rules from May this year.

I quote below from the draft regulations .

8.2.2 Compression ignition engine emissions
8.2.2.1 Exhaust emission control equipment
This inspection is restricted to components that are readily visible and identifiable, such as a diesel
oxidation catalyst, diesel particulate filter, selective catalytic reduction valve etc.
Diesel particulate filters (DPF) should be checked for evidence that the DPF has been removed or
otherwise tampered with. Where a DPF canister has clearly been cut open and re-welded, it should be
rejected unless evidence can be provided that the canister was cut open for legitimate reasons, such as
filter cleaning.

Defect Category
(a) Emission control equipment fitted by the manufacturer missing, obviously
modified or obviously defective.

Major
(b) An induction or exhaust leak that could affect emissions levels. Major
(c) Evidence that the diesel particulate filter has been tampered with. Major


----------------------------------------------------------
It therefore could be decided from the above that due to the EGR valve affecting emissions, removal would make it impossible for your car to pass a MOT. ----------- If however just a plate is fitted for blanking purposes the tester would not be able see that.

Any MOT testers on here ??? your thoughts ----
 
Just a note of caution re posts from Travis9599 and dtimmins1985 as quoted below --------------------------------------

Quote Originally Posted by Travis9599
Forgot to mention dtimmins, I have also removed the EGR completely and blanked both ends, but am yet to disable that and the swirl flaps in the ecu.
Cool

Mine was disabled in ECU when it was remapped (both flaps and egr) then the EGR was blanked and flaps removed and blanked.

I am still yet to completley remove the EGR... its blanked and disabled as above however, i would like to remove the piping and EGR completely - next job on the agenda.
----------------------------------------------------

from the above It appears that you have or may be considering complete removal of the EGR and all of it's pipework. Before doing this I would consider the new MOT rules from May this year.

I quote below from the draft regulations .

8.2.2 Compression ignition engine emissions
8.2.2.1 Exhaust emission control equipment
This inspection is restricted to components that are readily visible and identifiable, such as a diesel
oxidation catalyst, diesel particulate filter, selective catalytic reduction valve etc.
Diesel particulate filters (DPF) should be checked for evidence that the DPF has been removed or
otherwise tampered with. Where a DPF canister has clearly been cut open and re-welded, it should be
rejected unless evidence can be provided that the canister was cut open for legitimate reasons, such as
filter cleaning.

Defect Category
(a) Emission control equipment fitted by the manufacturer missing, obviously
modified or obviously defective.

Major
(b) An induction or exhaust leak that could affect emissions levels. Major
(c) Evidence that the diesel particulate filter has been tampered with. Major


----------------------------------------------------------
It therefore could be decided from the above that due to the EGR valve affecting emissions, removal would make it impossible for your car to pass a MOT. ----------- If however just a plate is fitted for blanking purposes the tester would not be able see that.

Any MOT testers on here ??? your thoughts ----

I can answer this for you.

Our car's - Euro 4 spec, do not have a DPF.

The new rules coming into force will not affect us.
If we had a DPF and we had messed with it, then yes - it would affect us.

BUT we do not have a DPF and the EGR is nothing to do with the MOT, they don't look at it, they have no reason too...

The only time the EGR would even be looked at is when there might be a fault with the engine, or if the MOT tester did a fast idle and the engine managment light came on, however - it usually goes off when the engine returns to idle, this whole scenario can be avoided if the ECU has the EGR disabled correctly.

Anyhow - if what your saying WAS correct, you would see thousands more land rovers etc hit the scrap heap this year, nearly every 300 TDI landy i have seen / worked on has already had the EGR disconnected, not blanked but disconnected so nothing can operate it (and it stays closed)...

br,
Dan.
 
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