Technical VL36 vs VL37 size. Anyone got pictures?

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Technical VL36 vs VL37 size. Anyone got pictures?

Joe0586

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My turbo is screwed!! Ordered a new /ordering new turbo. I got hand on a vl36 for the same price of vl37. But they misplaced the item and send me vl37. Now waiting for VL36 to arrive.

Question - how do I identify VL36 from a VL37? If by size? By how much. Anyone got any pictures.. Help would be greatly appreciated.

Mine is a bravo 1.4 t-jet 150.
 
The air intake /the inducer on the vl36 is 5mm larger that the vl37 :
vl36.JPG 25mm vs 30 mm If i remember correctly.
 
That was helpful. I ordered a vl36 and a VL37 came in. frustrating!!. :( or plan on a vl38 chra on vl36 housing..
 
As far as I can gather, vl38 and VL36 are identical in every way other than the actuator. Hot side is common to all three, vl38 / vl36 share same internally larger compressor housing and chra with larger compressor wheel compared to Vl37. Chra from 38/36 are identical.
Actuator on the VL36 is strongest sprung followed by 37 then the 38.

Cheers

Ben
 
hi Ben, do you have instructions on how to remove the turbo. The workshop manual is not explanatory enough to open it. The reason I asked is that I have limited time to use my friends workshop and need it done quick. Thank you in advance for any advice :)
 
Very briefly.....

Drain oil
Engine cover off and remove rail and connections for coils.
piping from and to airbox off
Top heatshield off
Undo downpipe from turbo and flange on front pipe and also bracket holding in place along with heatshield and remove downpipe / cat.
Disconnect coolant hose from hard pipe on turbo and drain what you can by cracking Banjo bolt and angling hard pipe down then unfo rear Banjo for coolant (quite a bit will spill)
Undo and remove oil return and feed banjos and prepare for some mess.
Undo manifold heatshield and remove, this will come out with persuasion past piping with banjos removed.
Remove manifold complete with turbo from head.
Swap turbo's on bench and have a very hard look at manifold for signs of cracking, mine was properly dead at 63,000 miles.

If there is any sign of clogging of oil feed and return lines then remove from car and either clean or replace. Oil banjos should be replaced along with sealing rings.

My lines were perfect but I cleaned them anyway, Auricks were quite bad I think.

Put back together in reverse with new oil and filter and refill and burp cooling system. My coolant was almost new so didn't bother draining and renewing. If not been done recently, pull bottom hose from rad and empty system before removing cat and replace it.

I maybe missed the odd step out but you'll see it when you get started if so. I did mine over a weekend and took my time it is easily doable in a day if nothing gets stuck, an afternoon if there is two of you with one underneath. Plenty of releasing fluid, new gaskets, studs, and nuts should be on hand and only attempt it if you have decent SIX point sockets.

Fill turbo with oil from top once lower pipe is on and follow general advice on priming before running.

Quite involved job but not too bad provided nothing shears or rounds off, mine came to bits no problem but I had time to spray it s down and wait. Not joking about only using 6pt sockets.....

Good luck!

Ben
 
Last edited:
You want to do an oil change as well.

I used a piece of wire and brake cleaner on the oil feed and drain pipes... there was some grap in them.
 
Dear All,
By the way, can somebody tell me the OEM turbo type for MY2008 T-Jet Sport 150hp?
On my car there is VL36, but I assume that it may have ever been changed and wrong type was fitted.
The factory T-Jet broschure says VL33 to be the go.
Thanks a lot for confirming.
 
thanks Ben for the advice. I rebuilt my vl36.

For everyone's information. Vl36,37,38 have same hot end. Vl36,38 have same cold end and chra. The actuation seems slightly different. I bought new chra for vl38 and it was exactly the same as vl36. I used new hot end from the vl37 I had brand new I had that the seller send me by mistake. Assembled All together and it works perfectly. I need to decat the down pipe. :)
 
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