Technical Uno Turbo dies after 2-3 seconds

[Slinkylinks]

Hi Everyone-

I used to come here a lot- but less so over the last 15 years or so- kids etc.

But I’ve found myself buying cars to play with again- like when I was in high school/uni.
I currently have two 5 project cars!

I collected a “barn find” uno turbo yesterday (5). It’s a mk1- and comes with a second one for parts (how much is left on it, I’m not sure).

I spent all day today trying to get it to run.
It came with the intake off- and the injectors out. Apparently requiring new injectors which the PO had included.
I tested the injectors- the pump out plenty of fuel- found one the was a stuck, swapped it for a spare.
I reassembled it as is- and it starts! But does after 2-3 seconds. It’s hard to start, unless I clamp the fpr outlet- it if I do that, it runs for 4-5 seconds and still dies. I’ve replaced the fpr with a spare- no change.

The fuel pump when i stick a gauge in it will hit 100psi- but i can only deadhead it- I don’t have the stuff floating around to tee it inline.

If I spray ether in it- it keeps running- with a noid light connected, the light keeps blinking from the injector signals- so it’s not a fuel cut state.

Any ideas anyone?
Cheers!
Matt

 

[bugsymike]

Hi Everyone-

I used to come here a lot- but less so over the last 15 years or so- kids etc.

But I’ve found myself buying cars to play with again- like when I was in high school/uni.
I currently have two 5 project cars!

I collected a “barn find” uno turbo yesterday (5). It’s a mk1- and comes with a second one for parts (how much is left on it, I’m not sure).

I spent all day today trying to get it to run.
It came with the intake off- and the injectors out. Apparently requiring new injectors which the PO had included.
I tested the injectors- the pump out plenty of fuel- found one the was a stuck, swapped it for a spare.
I reassembled it as is- and it starts! But does after 2-3 seconds. It’s hard to start, unless I clamp the fpr outlet- it if I do that, it runs for 4-5 seconds and still dies. I’ve replaced the fpr with a spare- no change.

The fuel pump when i stick a gauge in it will hit 100psi- but i can only deadhead it- I don’t have the stuff floating around to tee it inline.

If I spray ether in it- it keeps running- with a noid light connected, the light keeps blinking from the injector signals- so it’s not a fuel cut state.

Any ideas anyone?
Cheers!
Matt

Is there a regulator on the fuel rail as my Autodata gives 3 Bar as system pressure?

 

[Slinkylinks]

Is there a regulator on the fuel rail as my Autodata gives 3 Bar as system pressure?

Yeah- I’ve swapped that out (fpr= fuel pressure regulator).

That said- I’d expect the car to stay running when I clamp the return line- if it was not maintaining some semblance of pressure. Which it doesn’t!

It came with new injectors too- which have the same number- but don’t direct fit. I can potentially make them fit- with spacers. Worth doing you think?

Matt

 

[bugsymike]

Yeah- I’ve swapped that out (fpr= fuel pressure regulator).

That said- I’d expect the car to stay running when I clamp the return line- if it was not maintaining some semblance of pressure. Which it doesn’t!

It came with new injectors too- which have the same number- but don’t direct fit. I can potentially make them fit- with spacers. Worth doing you think?

Matt

Are you getting a consistant fuel supply of clean fuel at the fuel rail?
Can you let it run in to a clear container to inspect it?
Strange new injectors with same numbers don't match. Without visually inspecting I can't tell re modifying with spacers to fit. Obviously any air leaks will be a problem.
Is it possible to safely test the fuel injectors that are fitted, off the engine but still connected correctly, if that makes sense? To see if a regular spray is there or not for sure. Obviously be aware of any fire risks.
Another point if it runs then dies, looking at it from a different direction as in air in air out. Is the fault still there with air cleaner off and also from the other end, is the exhaust blocked with "dead rodents " etc. In the past I have seen issues from both those causes.
Presumably if it continues running with ether spray then ignition side is functioning OK, also any air in/air out issues.

 

[Zardo]

I reassembled it as is- and it starts! But does after 2-3 seconds. It’s hard to start, unless I clamp the fpr outlet- it if I do that, it runs for 4-5 seconds and still dies. I’ve replaced the fpr with a spare- no change.

So what you're saying the FPR doesn't actually work. Because it won't start unless you disable it by clamping the return line, if I understood correctly, so the injectors get the maximum pressure available from the fuel pump (which would be too much) instead of 3 bar, and if you don't clamp it, it won't start because the injectors likely don't get enough fuel pressure? Or the injectors are not the original ones and are calibrated to actually work with a higher than standard fuel pressure?

I don't know the uno model, but you could try this:

does fuel come out of the vaccum line connector when pulling the line --> rubber diaphragm punctured or eaten by ethanol in the fuel (was the UNO actually ethanol-proof?)

does the FPR valve actually move in function of the vaccum or is it stuck open or closed

is there black smoke?

what colour are the spark plugs

just my 2 cents

 

[s130]

According to my Haynes Fuel Injection Manual the Fait Uno Turbo is fitted with the 'BOSCH LE 2 Jetronic' system, same system as used in the Classic Croma Turbo.

You should be able to find detailed information on the components and operation of this system online.

If not I could carefully post the relevant pages from the Haynes manual which comprises 8 pages but there may be associated Copyright issues for the Fiat Forum as the 8 pages constitute a complete copy and not extracts of the said Jetronic in question.

 

[Slinkylinks]

Thanks guys- basically- I’d done all of the mentioned tests- with everything being right.

I have now got it working - with the shocker of the turbo intake pipe being just off the turbo- ie. Massive vacuum leak between turbo and afm.

So what was happening was the ecu was never giving more than idle fuel. In the end I noticed that I could effect the idle by moving the afm flap with my finger- and then that if I did that at the same time as reving it up, it worked! I don’t think I’d ever actually looked at an afm in action- they whip open pretty bloody fast! So in retrospect it was obvious.

I took it for its first drive today- I got 4k up the road and it lost power and stalled.
I pulled the afm and it ran in sort of limp mode- got up to 2k with very careful feathering of the throttle- and managed to make it home! I’ve noticed that I can’t hear the fuel pump.

The since it’s been off the road for the last 20 years- it has had the fuel tank cleaned and membrane out in.
It has a new fuel pump and filter.

During my testing before for the initial problem- I swapped in the filter from the parts car- just out of interest. And while looking around at the fuel system- I noticed that the filter between the tank and pump wasn’t re-installed. The pump terminals arc if I jumper them- so I suspect it’s hovered something up and blocked the pump- and got it stuck. I have a spare- I’ll test with that tomorrow and make sure that I have a filter between the tank and the pump!

Onwards and upwards!

 

[Slinkylinks]

I’ve swapped out the fuel pump with the one off the parts car. The “new” one (installed new 20 years ago- and never run) appears to have seized in the 20 mins of running I’ve had it do.

The car is running again- but is misfiring and doesn’t have very good throttle response.

I’ll try swapping the afm- I think it’s that that is causing the issue currently- but will report back.

 

[Jig]

I’ve swapped out the fuel pump with the one off the parts car. The “new” one (installed new 20 years ago- and never run) appears to have seized in the 20 mins of running I’ve had it do.

The car is running again- but is misfiring and doesn’t have very good throttle response.

I’ll try swapping the afm- I think it’s that that is causing the issue currently- but will report back.

Let us know the missfire problem when you've solved it

 

[Slinkylinks]

Let us know the missfire problem when you've solved it

Yeah I will- I’ve started some rust repairs on it- so have been side tracked.

In other exciting news- my e39 (m52b28 factory manual) has also developed a misfire today(ie. It’s just straight out running on 5). Plenty of tasks to get through!